4th plane
08-22-2004 | 06:41 PM
#1
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From: Fort Mohave,
AZ
4th plane
Hi all,
OK, I'm really thinking about getting my fourth plane.. It'll
be a profile kit due to money and the learning curve.. 3D:-)
I think I have the stick part pretty much down pat.. I did say
I think:-) Anyway its the covering part.. Mainly the trim..
I guess you put the main colored covering on and put the
trim pieces on top of it??? Am I correct? If so, How do you
get the cuts stright? and the same on both sides? I must
admit patience is not one of my better virtues..(My problem)
But I would like it to come out at least OK.. I was just
thinking of just painting the trim on but it seems to scratch
a lot eaiser.. Any tips/help
Have a Great Sunday People
OK, I'm really thinking about getting my fourth plane.. It'll
be a profile kit due to money and the learning curve.. 3D:-)
I think I have the stick part pretty much down pat.. I did say
I think:-) Anyway its the covering part.. Mainly the trim..
I guess you put the main colored covering on and put the
trim pieces on top of it??? Am I correct? If so, How do you
get the cuts stright? and the same on both sides? I must
admit patience is not one of my better virtues..(My problem)
But I would like it to come out at least OK.. I was just
thinking of just painting the trim on but it seems to scratch
a lot eaiser.. Any tips/help
Have a Great Sunday People
08-23-2004 | 09:15 AM
#2
Senior Member
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RE: 4th plane
ORIGINAL: raideron
Hi all,
OK, I'm really thinking about getting my fourth plane.. It'll
be a profile kit due to money and the learning curve.. 3D:-)
I think I have the stick part pretty much down pat.. I did say
I think:-)
Anyway its the covering part.. Mainly the trim..
I guess you put the main colored covering on and put the
trim pieces on top of it??? Am I correct?
>Correct.
If so, How do you
get the cuts stright? and the same on both sides?
>First, do your cutting on a piece of glass. The cut lines are cleaner.
>Next, use a NEW blade for cutting.
>Finally, measure the trim piece BEFORE CUTTING and MEASURE AND
>MARK the location of it on the plane.
>Use a METAL straight edge (or ruler ) to guide the blade for making
>the cuts.
>I suggest starting with something like a sunburst scheme. The
>trim will be wide on the trailing edges and taper to a point at
>the leading edge.
>To apply the trim, wet the area with BLUE Windex and apply/slide
>the trim piece into position. Be sure to remove the backing and to
>have the GLUE SIDE down. Then squeegee out the excess Windex
>and carefully BLOT the excess. Let it sit for 24 hours and you
>should be all set. If you have any of the edges lifting, use
>MonoKote Trim Solvent to reattach them OR use a trim iron set
>on low.
>I know you said patience is not your strong suit, but
>a nice trim scheme does require that you take your time
>and work carefully (and frequently slowly ).
I must
admit patience is not one of my better virtues..(My problem)
But I would like it to come out at least OK.. I was just
thinking of just painting the trim on but it seems to scratch
a lot eaiser.. Any tips/help
>I would not suggest painting the trim scheme. The film
>covering (frequently MonoKote ) must be masked off.
>then the areas you want to paint need to be CAREFULLY
>scuffed to a "frosted" appearance using 0000 steel wool
>or the green pot scrubbers. Be careful you do not scuff
>through the covering. After that, the area has to be
>thoroughly cleaned, the edges of the masking tape
>need to be sealed to prevent bleeding. Then it can be
>primed and finally it can be painted. If the paint is not
>fuel proof, you will need to clear coat it with something
>that is fuel proof (LusterKote clear ).
>Unless you have a GOOD AMOUNT of patience, I really
>don't suggest painting, although it would be a way to
>develop patience.
Have a Great Sunday People
Hi all,
OK, I'm really thinking about getting my fourth plane.. It'll
be a profile kit due to money and the learning curve.. 3D:-)
I think I have the stick part pretty much down pat.. I did say
I think:-)
Anyway its the covering part.. Mainly the trim..
I guess you put the main colored covering on and put the
trim pieces on top of it??? Am I correct?
>Correct.
If so, How do you
get the cuts stright? and the same on both sides?
>First, do your cutting on a piece of glass. The cut lines are cleaner.
>Next, use a NEW blade for cutting.
>Finally, measure the trim piece BEFORE CUTTING and MEASURE AND
>MARK the location of it on the plane.
>Use a METAL straight edge (or ruler ) to guide the blade for making
>the cuts.
>I suggest starting with something like a sunburst scheme. The
>trim will be wide on the trailing edges and taper to a point at
>the leading edge.
>To apply the trim, wet the area with BLUE Windex and apply/slide
>the trim piece into position. Be sure to remove the backing and to
>have the GLUE SIDE down. Then squeegee out the excess Windex
>and carefully BLOT the excess. Let it sit for 24 hours and you
>should be all set. If you have any of the edges lifting, use
>MonoKote Trim Solvent to reattach them OR use a trim iron set
>on low.
>I know you said patience is not your strong suit, but
>a nice trim scheme does require that you take your time
>and work carefully (and frequently slowly ).
I must
admit patience is not one of my better virtues..(My problem)
But I would like it to come out at least OK.. I was just
thinking of just painting the trim on but it seems to scratch
a lot eaiser.. Any tips/help
>I would not suggest painting the trim scheme. The film
>covering (frequently MonoKote ) must be masked off.
>then the areas you want to paint need to be CAREFULLY
>scuffed to a "frosted" appearance using 0000 steel wool
>or the green pot scrubbers. Be careful you do not scuff
>through the covering. After that, the area has to be
>thoroughly cleaned, the edges of the masking tape
>need to be sealed to prevent bleeding. Then it can be
>primed and finally it can be painted. If the paint is not
>fuel proof, you will need to clear coat it with something
>that is fuel proof (LusterKote clear ).
>Unless you have a GOOD AMOUNT of patience, I really
>don't suggest painting, although it would be a way to
>develop patience.
Have a Great Sunday People
08-23-2004 | 03:35 PM
#3
My Feedback: (4)
RE: 4th plane
Go to a fabric store, or the fabric section of Walmart and buy one of the cutters that they use for cutting material. It looks a lot like a pizza cutter (a wheel does the cutting), and works amazingly well on our covering materials.
Yes use covering material, not paint, and yes, use a metal straight edge to make straight cuts.
To make both side exact, cut two pieces of covering material large enough for your design, then lay them down on the glass (or cutting mat) back to back and cut them both at once. That way, once they're cut you'll have two pieces, mirror images, that are exactly the same size and shape.
Spray the surface of your covering with Windex, or detergent and water solution (where you want to lay the trim), then position the trim piece. The Windex will allow you to move the trim around until it's right. Then squeegee out any excess from underneath, wait 24 hours, and iron it down.
Dennis-
Yes use covering material, not paint, and yes, use a metal straight edge to make straight cuts.
To make both side exact, cut two pieces of covering material large enough for your design, then lay them down on the glass (or cutting mat) back to back and cut them both at once. That way, once they're cut you'll have two pieces, mirror images, that are exactly the same size and shape.
Spray the surface of your covering with Windex, or detergent and water solution (where you want to lay the trim), then position the trim piece. The Windex will allow you to move the trim around until it's right. Then squeegee out any excess from underneath, wait 24 hours, and iron it down.
Dennis-
08-23-2004 | 04:06 PM
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From: The Woodlands, TX
RE: 4th plane
trim monokote is thicker than the regular monokote, It is good for repairing planes that have sticky covering like Tower Trainer but other than I personally don't like to use it.
And the size is not suitable to cut big letters.
For the 4th plane for 3D profile I recommend either .25 size Fat Free Taco by Paul Swany there or 40 size brother buritto, I have FF Taco and it is great for 3D and It is tougher than you expect.
bigger is not necesarrily more expensive for 40 size buritto will be ticket in which you can use the standart servos and 46bb engine which is a little expensive than the 25FX. but you will save on servos.
And the size is not suitable to cut big letters.
For the 4th plane for 3D profile I recommend either .25 size Fat Free Taco by Paul Swany there or 40 size brother buritto, I have FF Taco and it is great for 3D and It is tougher than you expect.
bigger is not necesarrily more expensive for 40 size buritto will be ticket in which you can use the standart servos and 46bb engine which is a little expensive than the 25FX. but you will save on servos.
08-23-2004 | 05:13 PM
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From: el centro, CA
RE: 4th plane
i use a metal straight edge as a guide..cut on glass.
straight thin lines r a pain to get perfect when applying
i'm having a hell of a time with simple invasion stripes.
it's taking forever and ever n ever n ever.........
go flames or whatever,so it doesn't have to be perfect..it's art
make stincle from wax paper or whatever and flip for opposite side.
i use card board form 12 packs for logo stincles
straight lines
use the spar or the edges of the fuselage as a guide.
i apply the lines with a marker first.
you can also try automotive pin stripes
shirnk base color first...
soap and water on the trim and squeegie out liquid and air with
credit card or whatever.
i like to use monokote as base
lower temp film for trim scheme
if bubble occurs...i can poke with a needle and iron out easier
straight thin lines r a pain to get perfect when applying
i'm having a hell of a time with simple invasion stripes.
it's taking forever and ever n ever n ever.........
go flames or whatever,so it doesn't have to be perfect..it's art
make stincle from wax paper or whatever and flip for opposite side.
i use card board form 12 packs for logo stincles
straight lines
use the spar or the edges of the fuselage as a guide.
i apply the lines with a marker first.
you can also try automotive pin stripes
shirnk base color first...
soap and water on the trim and squeegie out liquid and air with
credit card or whatever.
i like to use monokote as base
lower temp film for trim scheme
if bubble occurs...i can poke with a needle and iron out easier
08-24-2004 | 11:44 AM
#7
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From: Fort Mohave,
AZ
RE: 4th plane
Thanks all for your replies and help... Now I guess I just have
to do it:-) I'm still not sure what I want to get.. But money
dictates all of it... And the Boss is saying... What happened to
just one plane, maybe two for the first year....... Oh well:-)
to do it:-) I'm still not sure what I want to get.. But money
dictates all of it... And the Boss is saying... What happened to
just one plane, maybe two for the first year....... Oh well:-)
