Regarding the gear doors - I followed the plans, too and have busted them off in taxi tests already on a grass strip. I used epoxy to adhere the glass reinforcement to the doors, but this is peeling off already. The place they broke first was at the top attachment point. For the lower attachment, the plans called for a large washer under the screw head - the plans did not call for this at the top attachment point. This is a mistake, as the plastic under the screw will break in the same diameter as the screw head and then your left with the gear door flopping from the lower attachment.

My recommendation for these door covers is the same as for the scale prop - take 'em off when flying. If you are going to use them, beef up the attachment areas, perhaps by using a second layer of the same plastic material (from scrap) at the attachment points - I might use a plastic cement, rather than epoxy - something that'll adhere better. Also, use large washers under the screw heads at both upper and lower attachment points.

Also, the mechanism for opening the front, spring gear door is really bad. Maybe they changed the design, as they were not 'pretty trick' for me. On my plans, they showed a 'C' collar that attached to the strut, and a piece of plastic tubing with threaded rod on each end. One end of the rod/tube threaded into the 'C' collar while a plastic, rounded cone was threaded on to the other end. This rounded cone is supposed to open the front cover when the gear strut come down.

Nice in theory, except the rounded cone is trying to slide on the rough side of the fiberglass gear door cover. It doesn't slide at all - instead, the whole rod/tube/cone thing just breaks off.

Using the same 'C' collar, I lowered its mounting point on the strut. I then took a piece of 1/16" rod about 2 inches long, thread on one end and bent it into an 'L' shape. The short leg of the 'L' threads into the 'C' collar, with the long leg pointing up and laying against the front gear door. This arrangement works very well, with the long leg of the 'L' sliding smoothly over the rough fiberglass back of the door.

Have not flown yet - will be trying the Zinger 24x10 in an attempt to get the RPMs up. Feedback seems to indicate that large Top Flite props tend to load engines more than others.

Also, if I had to do over, I'd throw out the foam stab/elevator and go with a built up(ribbed) design. I shortened the brass tubes used to mount the rudder and elevators - but I could have shortened them all another quarter inch. I threw out the plastic stab tips, replacing them with balsa - this was a good idea, but I'd hollow them out next time. Every ounce you save in the tail lets you take out 4 in the nose - and the foam/balsa sheeted stab/elevator is not the lightest thing.

I'd do the same for the wing panels - at least the ailerons and outer flaps. Also, I'd make a better attempt at getting my aileron servos on the CG line of the aircraft. These panels tend to be rearward heavy - meaning one has to add weight to the nose to counter them.

I've had it recommended to me that one should keep RC aircraft under 40 ozs/sqft wing loading. The instructions I received indicated the plane to come in at 22-24 lbs. At 24 lbs, the wing loading is up around 43 oz/sqft. So before thinking about any details you want to add, think about how you can change the design of the kit to lighten it up. Push everything you can, forward (air bottle, receiver battery, servos, etc.). Its easier to move stuff back later, if needed, or add a few ounces of balance weights inside the rear gear well.

I'm still looking to find someone that has flown this bird at 30-32 lbs. During high speed taxi tests, it seems to have enough power even with the under performing prop at half throttle - but it is moving quite fast at/around its stall speed.

So, build it light as you can!

Iron Bay can get you the prop adapter. If not, go directly to CH. When I called Iron Bay (last Winter?), they did not have any in stock and were a bit unsure as to when they would have any. CH will supply the adapter and the magnet for the ignition. They won't drill/ream the hole in the adapter for you to mount the magnet - unless you send them your engine. If you can get real good, accurate measurements as to where the hole should go relative to the drive shaft key, maybe they will do the drilling/reaming for you without having to in your engine. I have a drill press, so I did this myself.

If you order the adapter from Iron Bay, perhaps it will come with the magnet already installed - I don't know.

I found the assembly of the two fuse halves to be the hardest part. Not so much the assembly, but the filler work afterwards, as the two halves did not fit together as seemlessly as expected. Mine was a Byron built kit - maybe Iron Bay has improved on this.

I found the local auto parts shop to be my new favorite haunt. There, you can find body fillers that adhere very well to fiberglass, apply smoothly and they sand very easily.

And, if you don't have a respirator - get one. I got mine at Home Depot and it comes with cartridges for filtering out organics. The resins, body fillers, etc can all be pretty nasty to work with - both from the fumes and the sanding particulates.

Will be interested to hear your progress.