rschaffer

Hello. I have one of the Byron (Iron Bay) 4.2's with the Purr Pow'r muffler mount and 3 bladed prop for my corsair. I was looking at the motor the other day, it has an orange housing, no back plate, and just the shaft with the key in front. Can anyone explain (and provide pictures) of how they set up the ignition?? I have a C&H ignition for the motor, but have no idea how to set up the throttle advance, including the pulse switch. This is my first gas motor, so I am a bit off of the learning curve [:'(]. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

T-one

You can call Terry at C/H electronics and they can help you. You will need a prop hub to start with.

rschaffer

Hey T-one.. Thanks for the reply. I do have the 3 bladed prop hub. Even have the little magnet that goes into the hub, but if I've read the setup instructions correctly, I think I'm missing the aluminum plate that goes over the prop shaft in which the pulse switch is mounted to. I was hoping that someone might have an old pic of the front of their motor so I can see what I possibly might be missing. Will call also. I probably need all the help I can get...

tkg

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An orange case sach can be an oldie with mechincal spark advance or a recent engine. The new engines will have a small bolt on bracket with the sensor mounted. These new engines need a Syncro Spark ignition. Operating a 4.2 with fixed timing could be "interesting"[X(]

RTK

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GreaTOne_65

Hi Dale, this is a little late, but I wanted to tell you how nice your airplane is. I was also curious that noone told you how to stop the paint from being destroyed by the gasoline. It really is quite simple, spray it with polyurethane. Use gloss if you want it shiny like monokote, or semi-gloss, or flat. I will not pretend to be an expert, but I'm nearly postive it is compatabile with nearly every type of paint, but I know for sure it will fuel proof your plane. Try it on a test strip first, just to be sure.

BTW, I have a 4.2 that I used the Byron Purr-power on, and discovered the engine was much better power-wise with-out it. I had the 4 blade Byron prop, if I remember right it could only turn that thing about 5000 rpms, where with a 24-10 it would do 6500. Three and four blade props produce more drag than pull.

Good luck,
Dale

rschaffer

Morning TKG. I believe that this is a newer model orange cased Sachs. When I ordered it from Iron Bay (along with the corsair) it came with the Synchro-Spark ignition from C&H. I just ordered a new purr powr muffler for my second corsair (Brison 4.2 and planning to run a Solo Prop 24" GAP 3 blader), and it came with a schematic on the motor and ignition system. It seems that I am missing the pulse switch magnet and connector only. The schematic really helped me understand what the directions were trying to tell me.

Thanks to you and everyone for the help you have offered. It is a good feeling knowing there are folks out there with lots of knowledge and they are willing to share!!!!

Russ

Antique

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Many years ago, when Byron Originals was still in business, orange case Sachs engines were used..They were, and still are, VERY good engines...Byron changed from the factory Sachs engines to A&M engines with machined cases and bad cranks, then to the Byron Mustang 50cc engines...Iron Bay must have found a stash of orange case Sachs engines, the company was bought by Makita a few years ago and now the engines are blue..
The orange case Sachs engines were, and are, the best...

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

www.ch-ignitions.com
Sensor with connector is 7.50 + S&H

rschaffer

Thanks for the info TKG. I plan on calling C&H today, provided they aren't out flying all day...

Hopefully once I've completed the garage sale corsair, I will start the Iron Bay corsair and will attempt to start a build thread on that.

Once again, thank you to all who offered their council. It is very appreciated.

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Dale, Talk about dredging a thread up from a long way back. Hope you are still here.

I picked up a Byron Corsair today that was never finished. It has a 4.2 with the Purr Power system and a 3 blade prop. I was pretty disappointed when a friend told me that it used an A&M 4.2. I'm very leery of anything that A&M made. After getting it home I took a look at an old A&M 4.2 that I had in my junk box and noticed that the engine doesn't look like it at all. I'm excited to find that it may be a Precision Eagle. Here are a few photos and I would like to confirm that it is a Precision Eagle. I hope C&H can still provide a single bolt prop adapter. The engine looks like it has only been run briefly because the piston top is nearly clean.

Daryld12

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I have two Precision Eagle 4.2 engines and they look nothing like that. Both of mine are anodized in red and the pickup is completely covered. It may be that yours is older or a different engine. I'm not sure.

tkg

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There were two 4.2s from Planes Plus. The Eagle and the Eaglet. The Eagle was the anodized one. The Eaglet orginally was the Walker Machine. When Walker sold out. P+ bought the parts and machine programs to make the Eaglet

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Terry the two blade prop hub and single bolt adapter that I got from you a few weeks ago worked great. The engine had never been run before until I started it. After a little break in it was turning an NX 22x10 prop at 7500. After an hour of running at various speeds on the test stand I removed it and it sat around for a few days. I picked it up, removed the plug and turned the crank. The bearings felt really rough. Before I got the engine it sat in an un air conditioned garage for 10 to 15 years. I guess condensation did a job on the bearings. When I took it apart I noticed that both bearings had no identifying numbers on them. A local bearing supply matched them and the seal. After reassembling, it was smooth as glass and turned the same RPM.

Do you think it was made by Walker Machine or A&M? Here are some photos to help you decide.

tkg

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You have a midrun A&M. Sorry[]
A Walker would have a bronze/steel con rod
Check your end play on the crank, some of the A&Ms went out with the wrong bearing crush. The case was not bored deep enough and when you tighten the case together it would squeeze the bearings and put a side load on them and distort the crankshaft. Made for a short lifespan.

Big_Bird

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You are not as sorry as I am. I can't feel any end play. The inner race is pretty tight on the shaft and this may be preventing my feeling end play. I have 3 other orange case Sachs Dolmar engines. I can't feel end play on those either. The 2 G-62s I have I can feel a little end play. The engine was given to me and I only invested about $90 into it so I think I'll just run it and see what happens. At this point it runs super.