Nope, I think you read my post the way you wanted to hear it.

I do not neccesarily think Ultracote is easier to use!


***Two words: Bull S#@T***

-No, I dont think so. I dont know how much you've used MK, but it will go around curves better than Ultracote, and it will take higher temps while doing so. I could cover a ball without any wrinkles..

***You had your iron too hot***

-If 275 is too hot, I'd like to know how youre covering! I had to heat it up to get the darned sags out, meanwile it pulled away from the balsa.

***True, But the adhesive allows for removal, which MK doesn't***

-But I have yet to be able to remove Ultracote from Ultracote, reheat it, or dont, It wont come off without separating from the plastic top layer. Thats not to say I havent had the same problem with MK, I have, neither want to be removed after they have been applied.

In any case, If Ultracote is this difficult to get a good finish from, it cant be easier to work with than MK. I havent had many problems with it before.

Please read again my post where I explained the elmers glue technique; Its not on all airplanes that I will take that much time to get a good finish, and on plain wood, the thicker Ultracote looks better. Thats why I said I will use Ultracote on the fuse when I'm lazy, It wont show the grain as much.
They both have their advantages, I just prefer Monokote.