Which of the covering materials available is the best? Easiest to use? Doesn't sag in the hot sun? Has fluorescent colors that don't fade or change color in the sun? Stays on?

Thanks

Ultracote Hands-Down!

Depending upon the type of covering job you are doing, nothing can beat Ultracote. Not only do they have a vast array of colors to choose from, but - speaking from past experience - it is easier to attach than other brands, and it won't fade in the sun.

While it might require a touch-up with a heat gun from time to time, the ease with which it initially goes on makes up for these minor maintenance repairs.

The only problem is that it wrinkles easier than say, Monokote when you are covering. However, this can be solved if you work with someone else who could help you hold it down while you are covering.

And, depending upon the color you choose to use, Ultracote is relatively cheap...and a good bargain all the way around.

Hi rcchick, just out of curiosity, what kind of problems do you touch-up with the heat gun ? Is it lifted seams, sagging, wrinkles ? I am very concerned with lifted seams in any covering material. Thx for the info...........

I like ultrakote over solid wood, but monokote beats it easily over open-bay structures. Colortex(worldtex, solartex - same thing) is the best fabric for adherence, shrink and staying down. For the best durable finish I like fibreglass and epoxy resin. I have not tried polyurethane resian with glass, but I intend to. Light finish, try the litfab from nelson's. Many new light covering material, so experiment.
Any one who says brand x is the best overall is probably inexperienced with the wide array of choices. I can put monokote over an open bay wing with no wrinkles without heating it to shrink all over. a little shrink and it is locked in forever (eight yaers on a P-51 w/o a sag. Ultra is harder to work with, it is stiff and wrinkles itself around curves. If you put it on with heat so it shrinks as you go, you can do compound curves beautifully.
Colortex is evan easier to use than a plastic 'kote'. It all depends on your desired effect. I have not used many neons, but in the 'kote' plastics, I have not found one that does not fad even in normal inside, light. Check a roll that has been in the shop for a while. The exposed first few inches will have faded on the rack.'
'Good luck. The finish is more dependent on your skill, not the material. Practice and do not expect perfection right away. Work toward your gaol, and have lots of patience while finishing.

Another vote for Ultracote!

I have been in this hobby since the "Silk & Dope" days. I have tried them all (well, most of them anyway), and Ultracote gets my vote every time!

I too prefer UltraCote. I find that it shrinks more and resists wrinkling in the sun more than MonoKote. When I am at the field and I see a model that has wrinkled in the sun I ask the owner which 'Kote was used and mostly it is MonoKote. I haven't used MonoKote to cover a model myself so I cannot comment on how easy or well it applies. But, I do have some models that are covered with MonoKote and I can tell you that it is more brittle and easier to puncture than UltraCote.

On the other hand a friend of mine who is an absolute artist with model coverings will only use MonoKote. He tried UltraCote and really, and I mean really, disliked it!

So I guess the best covering is the one that works best for you.

I much prefer ultracote with my limited experience. After being told they are both good I brought in a supply of Monokote. I don't enjoy using it much, but a friend of mine also almost hit me when I told him of my preference fo r Ultracote and he is light years ahead of me with covering results Monokote or otherwise!

I like what ever I can pick up for a cheap price. Might want to look at that BLACK BARRON stuff. Good and cheap

I vote for Monokote. My planes done with Monokote easily outlook the planes and ARF's I have done in Ultracote. And, Contrary to pupular belief, Ultacote DOES Fade! I have an Extra 300xs arf covered in Purple Ultracote, and underneath the cockpit base, and underneat the cowl, is a whole shade darker than what has been in the sun. I havent seen any fading problems in a monokote covered plane I have been flying for 3 years now...

I agree with MikeS's comments. I also prefer the effects that Ultracote gives on solid surfaces, but it DOES sag and wrinkle, even on the same day it was applied. It seems the adhesive is not near as strong as Monokote's. I had to go over an area four times to get it to stay and shrink down to no sags, and each time I did, it would pull away from the seams, leaving an unstraight color line. Ultracote Will NOT go around compound curves and edges anywhere near as well as Monokote.

I have found alot of tricks to make monokote look better than anything else. One way I read about in a magazine was to mix up a solution of Diluted white elmers glue with water, "paint" it onto any solid wood surface (balsa), and quickly wipe it off with a sponge to keep it from warping the wood. Once done, sand the wood with fine sandpaper on a sanding block. Several applications will seal (and strengthen) the balsa where the monokote will be applied, and once the monokote is on, will look like a fine paint job, the wood grain barely shows through! I have one plane covered like this, and cant beleive the results!The above techique will NOT work with Ultracote, the adhesive is not compatible it the white glue!

When I get lazy and want a good look, what I do sometimes is cover the wing in Monokote, and the fuse in Ultracote.

Overall, I prefer Monokote. Good Luck

True, but the adheasive also allows for removal which MK doesn't

Quote:

I had to go over an area four times to get it to stay and shrink down to no sags, and each time I did, it would pull away from the seams, leaving an unstraight color line.

You had your iron too hot

Quote:

Ultracote Will NOT go around compound curves and edges anywhere near as well as Monokote.

Two words: Bull S#@T

Quote:

When I get lazy and want a good look, what I do sometimes is cover the wing in Monokote, and the fuse in Ultracote.

So you're admitting that Ultracoat is WAY easier to use.

I rest my case.

Nope, I think you read my post the way you wanted to hear it.

I do not neccesarily think Ultracote is easier to use!


***Two words: Bull S#@T***

-No, I dont think so. I dont know how much you've used MK, but it will go around curves better than Ultracote, and it will take higher temps while doing so. I could cover a ball without any wrinkles..

***You had your iron too hot***

-If 275 is too hot, I'd like to know how youre covering! I had to heat it up to get the darned sags out, meanwile it pulled away from the balsa.

***True, But the adhesive allows for removal, which MK doesn't***

-But I have yet to be able to remove Ultracote from Ultracote, reheat it, or dont, It wont come off without separating from the plastic top layer. Thats not to say I havent had the same problem with MK, I have, neither want to be removed after they have been applied.

In any case, If Ultracote is this difficult to get a good finish from, it cant be easier to work with than MK. I havent had many problems with it before.

Please read again my post where I explained the elmers glue technique; Its not on all airplanes that I will take that much time to get a good finish, and on plain wood, the thicker Ultracote looks better. Thats why I said I will use Ultracote on the fuse when I'm lazy, It wont show the grain as much.
They both have their advantages, I just prefer Monokote.

rajul,

The main problem I find that happens to my covering is a bit of sagging over open structures. However, just five minutes of my time will quickly solve that problem.

The only instance I have found where a lifted seam occurs is when Ultracote is applied over Monokote. I check for these problems every time I clean the plane, and so far Ultracote hasn't given me any problems.

poorbs,

Regarding the difficulty of covering, Ultracote isn't hard too hard to apply, and if you have someone to help it makes the process go much smoother (if you are a beginning coverer, as I am).

It is difficult to separate the backing from Monokote, and cutting it is much more difficult than cutting Ultracote. Moreover, the color selection with Ultracote is great....it beats Monokote hands down.
So, if you are looking for a good selection of fluorescent colors, I would look into Ultracote.

Just the way that i see it.
RC_Chick

Well as for choosing one over the other it depends on how you cover and how well you know your material. If you've always used monokote, you know to keep a hot iron.
If you've always used ultrakote, you know to keep a cool iron, and then to shrink nearby covering first, then warm up your iron a little at a time and work out the wrinkles on curves. Sure it takes time, but it turns out just as good if you know what your doing. Another trick to ucote is to apply it as tightly as possible before even needing a heat gun, this will keep slack out of it to begin with. Then when you do heat gun it (give it a b-job as I call it) put damp rags on the seams, turn your gun on max and blow away. The rags will keep the seams from pulling, and the max heat will help to keep it from saggin once done.
I've gotten the hang of both and neither is really better. Its just what you're used to. The thing I do like about Ucote is that the color selection is huge, giving you an extra edge to creating a truly unique color scheme.

Dean, I've used the glue tecnique too, but have you ever used balsarite?!? Talk about a slick finish it blows glue and water away! (That is if you touch it slightly with 220 wet or dry) The stuff turns wood to glass, it's fuelproof, it won't warp any wood whatsoever, and it's dries as a plastic film itself, so covering sticks much better.

Give it a try!!!

Hey thats cool! I bought some, Just havent tried it yet. I had forgotten I had it till you just brought it up. Next plane I cover, I'll use it!

Fiberglass is the best covering for the job...........Whoops, sorry it doesn't come in colors :stupid:

Noooo!!! Fiberglass is too heavy for most sport covering applications. Plus you have to mess with resin and all that crap. Talk about a mess. I'll stick with film anyday. heck I'd go back to fabric and dope before I covered an open ribbed wing with fglass!