FlyWilly, the mylar is not part of the structure. It comes off after the epoxy cures. It serves only to impart a mirror shine to the paint.

The paint comes off onto the epoxy and glass veil overlayment. Kevlar/carbon strip layers are actually adhered directly onto the foam.

From the inside out, think of the composite sandwich this way: foam core, 2 med light kevlar layers, weave hiding 0.3oz glass veil layer (or 0.6oz glass cloth) and paint. The Mylar has been waxed and comes off easily.

On the LE, apply a layer of 2.6oz carbon cloth around it first, and then carefully butt the top and bottom skins at the LE, leaving as minimal a gap as you can, completely overlapping the first carbon layer. At the TE, it's best to be about 1/8"undersized with the kevlar skins and 1/8" oversized with the carbon underlayment. The top and bottom carbon layers will adhere together, but will be easy to sand to final size. Kevlar is not as easy to sand so it needs to be undersized slightly.

As you try the technique, you wil find alternates that work better for you.

A vacuum set-up is not terribly expensive. I purchased mine from Aircraft Spruce but many companies offer these. Look up Pro Set or West Systems epoxy on the Internet. The only thingS you should get in the kit is the pump, valve, gauge, .010" MYLAR, WAX, and bag. Don't get the other stuff they sell you, especially the breather and bag sealer material. Paper towels work much much better in this application, as breather stock, and plumber's putty is a better sealer because it allows re-usability of everything, including itself. Good luck with your experiments