john agnew

Guys

In reply to Doc Yates I think the only beefing up you can do is increase the screw length. The recommended screws are far too small and are missing from the kit anyway! If you make the gear block too strong you risk braking the mounting rails instead which would be a much more difficult repair. You can see in pic 1 where the split happened. I will use 1 1/4" screws on the repair. I think I will fit retracts soon.

Pic 2 shows some aluminium tape as heat shielding at the back of the top hatch which is right over the tailcone. I have alco painted the inside of the fuz / hatch with epoxy resin thinned with about 20% acetone to fuel proof it. It has the added advantage of filling all the joints and should strengthen any weak glue joints which are fairly common in ARTF'S.

In reply to roryquin the final weight was 14lbs 10oz with a full hopper tank (6oz this is always full) 12 oz of lead in the nose in the nose gear compartment CG 175 mm back from the LE ( no problems with stability I feel the recommended CG of 150mm back is very conservative 25% of MAC would be 187mm and I intend to try this) With a P60 I would put the ECU battery in this compartment and you can probably reduce the lead content. Remember to mount you pump / solenouid /ECU as near the nose as possible. Servos are Hitec HS 5625 metal gear digitals on ail / elev. HS 5475 Karbonite gears on rudd.
and HS 625MG on flap / steering. This is probably overkill I believe Ali Machinchy is doing one with £10 servos on the flying surfaces and he should know!