How does anyone truly know if the engine was not run at BME's facility? Simply because problems were realized from what would appear to be an inexperienced end user dosn't make it so, and were all stretching it to the factory is at fault and assuming the engine wasn't run and left the country with multiple problems.

Nothing personal John either; but there are many things that may have been user induced, overlooked and or not realized. Not to suggest that the engine may not have left the building as you describe, BUT there are simply too many unrelated problems being aired here IMO...

What did the engine look like after you removed it from the box, did all appear well?

Was the engine removed from the box and installed on the test stand without any tinkering???

Are you sure the fuel-oil mixture was spot on?

Did you remove or work on the carb prior to determining the diaphragm was defective? As in install a diaphragm equalizer tube or port, tighten the retaining bolts anything?

What was your initial starting procedure?

Did the engine backfire?

"After stripping another wooden prop that’s a other story. " What does this mean, specifically?

Did you use an electric starter, ever?

How did you determine the timing was off? How did you effect the re-time? Is there an adjustable timing ring on the 110? It looks like the magnet is embedded in the hub? Hubs are generally keyed to the crankshaft.

If you backed the needles out 3 turns or better and the engine still ran lean, I'd suggest you had/have an air leak. Or maybe a severe fuel restriction or BAD fuel. Were you turning the right needle, in the right direction?

New carb’s don't have bad diaphragms as a rule. I’d be willing to bet the fuel metering needle and or plunger was not seating, thus the fuel dripping. If the diaphragm was actually bad it would not pump fuel, this is atypical of an old hard or dry diaphragm, not a new carb. I don’t recall a bad diaphragm being able to cause fuel dripping out of the carb.

Was there any confusion on which needle was the high and low needle?

6600rpm with a 3W 26x10 is working a new engine way to hard IMO...

There are lots of questions, lots of plausible scenarios and lots of answers to same. Keith knows engines, in his defense I find it very hard to believe an engine left his shop untested, out of time, with a bad carb and huge air leak and if nothing else so mechanically tight it smoked in a few three minute runs...

FWIW: I would never run an engine for ANY extended period of time at full throttle, especially a NEW engine. Simple ground testing does not require anything more than few bursts to full rpm to determine if the engine is properly tuned. Sustained rpm in a loaded lean static condition is what causes cylinders to scuff, rings to stick and cylinders to be damaged nothing more IMO...

BME has one of the best GAS Engines Owners manual I have ever noted to date, I believe it’s included with every engine; it’s also available on their website.