JVB, next time consider using clear iron on film intended for park flyers. It is a little thinner and a bit more flexible. I use some mylar material that is 50% thinner than ultrakote, and its adhesive is activated at about 150 degrees. Will not harm painted surfaces, that why I use this stuff. Model Research labs shows it but other materials are equivalent.
To get the very best actuation with practically zero drag, do the following. Cut your strips and then crease them down the long axis. run the crease over a corner like your bench top, to set the crease in place and assure a straight line. Remove the backing, insert into the hinge gap, and hold it with a thin ruler (the steel blade variety works super). Then activate the adhesive with your edge trim tool, one side at a time. The ruller will automatically move the surface to max throw and will make the cease settle into near center. Try it works great
MattK
ORIGINAL: JVB
I believe that most pattern guys seal hinge gaps, so I am asking this question here. I am trying to seal the hinge gaps on a pattern plane. I used Robart hinge points. I did one aileron last night. The aileron was very free before sealing the gap and now it moves like it is in cold molasses. I sealed the bottom of the aileron. I cut strips of monokote to go between the hinges and moved the aileron all the way down (up really). I then ironed the monokote in as far down into the gap as it would go. The servo seems to move the aileron just fine with no chatter on either side, however, the aileron is very stiff. Where did I go wrong?? Thanks.