I'm flying a WB 40 now and wondered the same thing. Most references tell you to go by the stab to set the wing at 0 degrees, unless the instructions say otherwise. I went by the stab without reference lines, but you did a good thing by marking centerline thrust. Now, you have a level center line. I would mount the stab at 0 degrees incidence to the line. Then, I would do the wing to 0 incidence to the stab and you should be set for an incredibly straight tracking plane.

I can adjust mine two ways. I can either put shims under the wing bolt pads on the fuselage to take out positive incidence, or wallow out the dowel holes for positive incidence. Flight tests so far indicate no problems. I would hate to wallow out the dowel holes.

Here is something else that is a must do item for the dural gear that is too soft to support the plane. I made a saddle mount to cure the spreading gear problem. I made a plate to go under the gear out of scrap ply. Then, I glued 2 small blocks on each end where the gear bends downward towards the wheels. I rounded this with a sanding drum so that the gear was saddled in the rounded part and pointed ends of the second piece of ply prevented the bends on the gear from flexing upwards. This stiffened up the gear just right. Otherwise, I had to bend the gear out each time I landed!

Don't paint the canopy black unless you cover it all the time when not flying. Mine melted. The canopy material is too thin.

The CG range is very forgiving. You can shift around without sudden surprises.

Hope all this helps.

(edited to add pic)