I'm looking for a little help here.

In setting up the wing and Stab of my CA Widebody 40 I've been marking some incidence lines on the fuse and taking some measurements.

I'm using the front part of the fuse top/bottom as level and setting that level above the building board.

Then I'm penciling reference lines on eith side of the fuse by the wing LE and TE and back by the fuse.

What incidence do I want the wings and Stab set up for?

The fuse laser cutting puts the wing at about 1.0 degrees positive incidence, and the stab at 0.

Is this right?

I'm assuming for a pattern ship, I should go for 0 and 0.

Can anyone with a Widebody 40 or 60 help me out here?

Thanks,


Trigger

I have the Widebody 60 just about finished.

I haven't messured the incidence, but for a pattern ship I would use 0 degrees on the stab. and 0 or 0,5 degrees on the wing.

(Sorry the bad English).

I'm flying a WB 40 now and wondered the same thing. Most references tell you to go by the stab to set the wing at 0 degrees, unless the instructions say otherwise. I went by the stab without reference lines, but you did a good thing by marking centerline thrust. Now, you have a level center line. I would mount the stab at 0 degrees incidence to the line. Then, I would do the wing to 0 incidence to the stab and you should be set for an incredibly straight tracking plane.

I can adjust mine two ways. I can either put shims under the wing bolt pads on the fuselage to take out positive incidence, or wallow out the dowel holes for positive incidence. Flight tests so far indicate no problems. I would hate to wallow out the dowel holes.

Here is something else that is a must do item for the dural gear that is too soft to support the plane. I made a saddle mount to cure the spreading gear problem. I made a plate to go under the gear out of scrap ply. Then, I glued 2 small blocks on each end where the gear bends downward towards the wheels. I rounded this with a sanding drum so that the gear was saddled in the rounded part and pointed ends of the second piece of ply prevented the bends on the gear from flexing upwards. This stiffened up the gear just right. Otherwise, I had to bend the gear out each time I landed!

Don't paint the canopy black unless you cover it all the time when not flying. Mine melted. The canopy material is too thin.

The CG range is very forgiving. You can shift around without sudden surprises.

Hope all this helps.

(edited to add pic)

Here is a link to my progress on the plane.


[link]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?s=e4812429c48bd896c083d53d219cd1ce& t=354903[/link]


I like how it is turning out so far.

Trigger

That looks very nice indeed! Did you buy a Dial indicator? If so, where and how much did it run? Not to be nosy, but I'm interested myself.

For a dial indicator and base, try:

http://littlemachineshop.com/

They even have one on sale right now for $17.95. I just removed the dial and second arm, and put a pencil into the holder attached to the arm on the base.

They have a lot of other neat stuff too. . .


Trigger

That is a very good price and I just ordered one for the next Widebody and Epsilon kits that are in line to build. Thanks for the link! For that price, everyone should have one.

You will need some positive incidence on the wing. Aprox .5 deg is standard. 0-0-0 planes need have a few nasty habits like ballooning and poor inverted flight. 0-0-0 sounds good bit it just doesn't work out. There are a lot of very nice flying CA Widebody's out there. I would leave it alone and trust Marcello had a reason for putting in the 1 deg pos incidence.

AdrianM,

I will check mine again since you pointed that out. Mine is not doing anything nasty, but it is easy to add that little amount. I have enough pad spots to increase it easily. I'll remeasure since I can't exactly remember now.

I checked the instructions on the WB 40, and it only says to align the leading and trailing edges with the thrust line. I remember that I interpreted that to mean 0 degrees incidence.