Engine information: No matter what engine is installed throttle management is the important factor. Having a little extra power can be a good thing. I like the idea of the smaller/lighter engine producing good power. Many beginners use the throttle as an On/Off switch. Many crashes happen on take off when the plane is yanked off the ground before it has flying speed. A little extra power can help in this case. Once flying and at a reasonable altitude reducing throttle will actually make a trainer fly better. If a loop is flown reducing the throttle to near idle after going over the top will keep the G forces down and may keep the wing from folding. Throttle should be applied smoothly to keep from loading the engine and possibly stopping it. (We are talking beginners here ~ a much different story if flying 3D etc. however many beginners are flying new engines that aren't broken in and haven't been adjusted well for instant throttle response).

Glue:
Titebond (original)(Franklin) is stronger and easier to use than Titebond II or III and is also a stronger glue than Carpenters' wood glue (Borden). Only use the waterproof versions if you are building a float plane or exterior object. The shelf life of original Titebond is several times as long as the II or III versions plus clean up is easier.

CA glue is a wonderful item but requires very good joints to make it work properly. I have seen many a crash (bad landing, etc.) where CA joints failed (shattered) and the Titebond ones held. In any case learn to make good joints before applying any adhesive. Many have very bad reactions to CA glues. I use them but only in specific areas such as in Warren truss sitck construction where the ends are sealed with thin CA and then re-checked (due to the wood expanding) and then the joint made with medium CA. {If you don't seal the ends first the glue will capillary into the end grain "starving" the joint and a failure may result}. I use a 20 box fan in the shop to dissipate the fumes. CA fumes are heavy so will sink onto the bench below the parts concentrating the effect so keep the air moving. In this case CA may be used to re-attach sheeting to ribs by adding pin holes though the sheeting and applying thin CA.

Epoxy: I don't use much epoxy. Only for pinned hinges and the like. It makes a mess, adds a lot of weight and reallly doesn't do a good job of gluing end grain. This is probably the reason we see puddles of it in many firewall areas. If you need more strength in these areas use 1/8" dowels, bamboo skewers or toothpicks to lock these joints into place.

I haven't found CA makes building any faster. Many state it takes Titebond too long to dry. It gains over 50% strength in about 15 minutes and fully cures in about 24 hours. When you crack the rib (or other balsa part) by all means use CA. It also is much easier to sand and can be removed with only water. The cost difference is enormous. $5.00 or so for a small bottle of CA or under $20.00 for a gallon of Titebond.

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