[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1403065/mpage_124/tm.htm]Original Thread[/link]


If you want to sift through 125 pages to find the info, click above. Otherwise I'll crop out the real tips and post them below to save you a few hours of your life. (NOTE: I am "borrowing" stuff from that thread, and I will give the respective author credit for the tip)


Feel free to help me reduce that monster thread if you're bored.

Break In

This is important, the instructions that came with your evader are WRONG. The instructions given are not written by OS and instruct you to run the motor far too lean. If you follow these instructions, you will be following the next tip to send your motor back to Duratrax. When they send you a new engine, you'll notice that the instructions are completely different. To prevent going through this whole poopy process, follow the new instructions for break in.

The new breakin instructions are:

1. Start the engine with the hi speed needle 2 1/2 turns out.
2. Then richen the setting by 1/8 turn until the truck will just barely runs
3. Finish the first tank this way at slow to medium running
4. Check temp every few minutes to make sure there is no over heating
5. Turn the needle in 1/12 turns at a time for runs 2-6, again checking temps
6. Final needle setting should be between 2 - 2 1/2 turns

Warranty Information

The engine in the evader is covered under warranty for 3 years. The Evader itself has a little advertised 90 day bumper to bumper warranty in addition to the 1yr stress tech. Go here to get the forms and info you need: [link=http://www.hobbyservices.com/index.html]Hobby Services[/link] Also, remove the pullstart and glow plug from the motor before you send it in, often when you get it back you'll have a new motor with a pull-start and glow plug. Free spares!
Contributed by: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=profile&forum=1&memid=87812]MotorPsyko[/link]

I broke my pull start

First of all, if you're having starting problems you need to address that. Flooding your engine is a quick way to break your starter due to hydrolocking. Your one-way bearing (insider the pull-start) won't take much abuse at all. If your cord is broke, you're probably pulling the thing too hard and too far. You should be taking very short maybe 6 inch pulls. Okay, so your cord isn't broke? Pull it and listen to the pull-start. Is it "chirping"? If it is, your bearing is shot. You can fix the bearing itself or you can order a new bearing. [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLV7&P=7]One-way bearing[/link] If you just want a new pull-start, you can get [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLX0&P=ML]this one.[/link] Note: It is a good idea to tape or hold the black spindle to the case, you don't want this ******* to come uncoiled. It's not fun to try to put it back together. I used a bent paperclip to pull the one-way bearing out of the spindle.
Contributed by: Everyone


Evader Parts

Dude! Where can I get parts for my Nitro Evader?!!oneone! Try here! [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=DTXD62**&P=Z]Parts List for the Nitro Evader ST RTR[/link]
Contributed by: Everyone

My Fuel Tank Sucks Monkey

Moral of the story, the stock tank sucks. There have been tips on how to fix this with a rubber band, but I don't think that's too great of an idea. The best bet is to get a better tank. Most of us (those who replaced) use this tank. [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT8&P=ML]Associated Fuel Tank[/link] You'll have to drill holes to get it done, but it's nothing to be afriad of. However, if you're on a budget, you could always try the rubber band idea. Just take the tank off and toss a few highly wrapped rubber bands on it. You can put a zip tie on the rubber bands so they are easier to pull away from the lid. It's a good idea to fix this soon, as you'll dirty your ride up in a jiffy with gas leaking all over it. Not fun to clean up.
Contributed by: Me and a million others.

HOW TO INSTALL RC10GT TANK

1st, get a piece of card about the same size as the tank, then put a thin dob of grease on each of the fuel tank mounting holes & put the tank onto the piece of card. then holding the tank in position on the card trace around the tank. you can then cut out the shape of the tank & have the 3 grease marks where the holes need to go.

2nd place the card on the top of the chassis & line up the template in the best location so the tank fits. you should be able to use an existing hole. mark out the 2 new holes you need to drill.

3rd drill the new holes & countersink them. put the screws through & stickytape them in place.

4th put the o rings on the screws protruding and place the tank on the screws. the tape will hold the screws in place and let you get the tank & orings all lined up with little frustration. then simple screw the tank on hitch up the fuel lines & you're ready to go.

Contributed by: dicko

Steering Servo

Get that stinking SX100 servo out of there! You -need- a nice metal-geared high-torque servo! If you need to rebuild your SX100 Servo, remember, it's just a [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH288&P=ML]Futaba S3003 Servo[/link].

I also saw a tip about a guy who took apart his servo saver and grinded the "V" part to more of a "U" shape and cut half a circle off of the spring to allow the servo saver actually give a little. The stock setting doesn't have much give even if it's completely loose.
Contributed by: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=profile&forum=1&memid=86031]WindDrake[/link] and some dude.

Starting Problems

Just like the manual says, try starting the engine at 50% throttle! If your carb is out of tune, just turn the radio gear off, plug your glow igniter in, and use a finger to open up the carb by pushing on the servo horn. Another thing I noticed is that it totally -hates- slightly-going glowplugs or batteries. It's a very finicky motor!
Contributed by: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=profile&forum=1&memid=86031]WindDrake[/link]

Failsafe Idea

When you take off the cover for the receiver there is a lip that sticks up that the cover fits around. Notch the lip the width of the wire for the failsafe, then notch out the same width on the cover in the same spot. Don't make the hole too big -- you want the wire to seal up the hole as much as possible without pinching it. [link=http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL207/1304578/2479677/42843841.jpg]Pic 1[/link] [link=http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL207/1304578/2479677/42843865.jpg]Pic 2[/link] [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEYG2&P=7]OFNA Failsafe[/link]
Contributed by: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=profile&forum=1&memid=82845]crazyswede[/link]

Cold Weather Bashing

Cold temperatures cause all plastic and nylon parts to become more brittle and break easier. If you plan on running your vehicle in cold weather (below 45 degrees F), you may experience parts breaking easier than under normal operating conditions. If you must run in cold temperatures below 45 degrees F, one option to help limit breakage and increase the toughness of nylon parts (chassis, suspension arms, bulkheads, etc.) is by disassembling the vehicle and boiling only the nylon parts for 2 hours. This will cause the nylon parts to be more flexible than usual. Wait for the nylon parts to cool completely before reassembling. This will not solve all problems in cold weather running.
Contributed by: [link=http://www.duratrax.com/faq/product-faq.html#q596]Duratrax[/link]




THINGS TO ADD HERE: crappy break-in manual, how-to piston/sleeve warranty and replacment (with pics), crappy clutch bell issue, how-to gearing guide, how-to 4 shoe clutch, Engine swaps (OS 18 CV-RX), poopy doopy stock gas tank issues, diff issues, what parts you should replace, links to other sites containing tips[link=http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1317620].[/link]