Reference the discussion on wing sheeting. My preferred method is to use Titebond glue and thick CA in the following manner. Sand the sheeting top side before applying it to the wing. Sanding it first prevents excessive sanding once it is applied to the wing and helps troughs in the sheeting between the ribs. Next, carefully sand the leading edge of the sheeting so that it carefully matches the leading edge of the wing then glue the sheeting to the wing leading edge with Titebond (or Elmer's). Allow that glue to dry while you work on the tail feathers, fuselage, etc. Once the Titebond is dry wipe the sheeting with water or window cleaner. Don't soak the sheeting, just dampen it; warping has never been a problem if the sheeting is just dampened. If the sheeting is not overly stiff, you may not have to even dampen it. Next put a bead of thick CA along each rib and the front edge of the spar. Don't put so much CA on the spar that it will squeeze out when the sheeting is eventually pushed down upon the ribs; doing that will prevent the cap strips from fitting well. Next step is to spray CA kicker on the bottom side of the sheeting where the sheeting will contact the ribs. Hold a 3x5 card over the ribs to prevent any kicker from getting on the CA. Final step is to "roll" the sheeting onto the ribs by using a long T-bar sander. The sheeting will stick to the ribs as soon as it touches because of the kicker. Let the wing set for a while because even though the CA sets quickly, it takes a while longer to reach full strength. Make sure the wing is truly flat to the building board (Wright building board is great?) so as not to build a warp into the wing. I weight the wing down with T-bar sanders and scrap metal blocks obtained (free!) from a metal shop. Why use Titebond? - it sands easier than CA and is less likely to leave an unsightly bump along the leading edge. Once the wing is completed, but before applying the shear webs, I give the wing a second application of CA (thick or thin) as required.