ORIGINAL: brokeneck
Got it today!
What do you guys think of the aluminum ofna clutch shoes? (Im thinking they may be what I use)
I should have the pipe and everything waiting on me tomarrow at the track..so hopefully will get it broke in..
The manuel says to idle the first 125cc of gas.. then let cool(BDC)..then open the hsn 1/2 a turn and run the car on a track at Low rpm(bliping the throttle) for at least 375cc of fuel..let cool(BDC)..then I can start closeing the hsn so the engine makes more rmp but still ''sounds like a four stroke'' avoiding extended periods of throttle for another 375cc of gas..let cool(bdc)..then start closeing hsn more till its about 80% of the engines performance(still alot of smoke) for about 250cc of gas...let cool...then tune hsn till motors about 90% or 95% of its power(makeing sure not to overheat)..
This sound like a good break-in method?
I used OFNA shoes and enjoyed them. I had the blue ones, they also make a different compound that is purple (I forget which does which). Currently, I use Mugen Aluminum shoes and Mugen 1.0 springs (it was cheaper than the ONFA ones). One note, aluminum shoes are often lighter than their composite counterparts. I have been told that you should never run a spring stiffer than a 1.0 as this will not allow full engagement of your clutch with the practical RPM range of these type of motors. If your shoes are engaging too soon with a 1.0 spring, drill 1mm holes in the tips of the shoes instead of opting for the stiffer spring.
That break in method sounds pretty complex, but RB does seem to know their stuff. I would have just said run it above 200 degrees without sudden throttle inputs or anything much above half throttle for a half dozen tanks. Shutting it down every 2-3 minutes for the first couple tanks and letting the engine cool to ambient air temp. with the piston at BDC (the BDC part should be done for the life of the engine, not just break in).