spend a little more and get a nova rossi

Yesterday i got the chance to drive my brothers RB against his v-spec.Both engines on hyper 7 with almost the same setup and same tires.
Three words: NOT EVEN CLOSE!!
The vspec revs like crazy,i hear it and it's like being in a WRC car.
We tried drag racing on the straight of the track.I left first and by the end of the straight he got me.
OK it does have the same high speed as the v-spec, but doesn't get there as fast as the v-spec does.
We were running it with the JP-1 exhaust which is said to be he best for it,but i'll try it with the T2050 and see how it goes.

As with any Picco, a 1/4 turn on the LSN and it was reving it's donkey off. Even poping wheelies off the line with the 10, 10, 1 diffs.

hey vti-chris, What RB does your bro have?

JP-1!!! I wonder this is good for bottom end.

yes the jp-1 is a good bottom end pipe..I like the re-enforced stinger on the jp pipes too..I seemed to always bend or brake the stingers on my old pipes..

It say on the title,it's a WS7II.

what would be the best jammin pipe for the v-spec..jp-1 or 2?

My vote is for the v-spec. There are faster engines for different tracks but the v-spec seems to run quiet well up against anything else.

economy, my novarossi s421b seemed very economical to me, my v-spec is alot better then that. We recently ran a 30 minute race and the v-specs i believe were the only engines doing two stops. I put the smallest carby restricter in, as an experiment, and got run times of 14 minutes (no it wasn't lean) it did take away a fair bit of power though.

i'll go with v-spec. it's my favourite engine.
421b is ok but it kinda little hard to tune.

RB engines are expensive. i use it on some even.

if you looking for price and performance. try STS D21B (Turbo Head).
i use mine for couple of praticing and it's great. i combine it with JP-2. even beat v-spec sometimes
i believe you can get it under $200. i use it for practicing and use my best engine for racing

cheers

well guys...after 2weeks of searching and reading info on each motor..I bought the ws7II.its worlds x3 editon..
thanks everybody for the help

I would go for RB everytime, ultra reliable, excellent feul economy, very quick engine. Try RB WS7 11 OR C5 BB, you wont be dissapointed.

good decision dude

you can't really go wrong with a WS7II & that RBCC (hard coating) on the crank should ensure it lasts a good long time too[8D]

brokeneck...where did you find that engine and at what price...because im looking to get the same one..also..what pipe are you running with it ..the JP-1? Does it actually have a good amount of low-end?

what do you think of the engine so far? How is it to tune etc.

I'd like to know how that motor runs too. Its either buying that during the off season or buying an 1/8 onroad car.

Hey guys,
I havent got it yet, its in a ups truck somewhere between here and tennessee..I got my lhs to call RB concepts and get the pipe that they advise running with it..but I also have a jp-1 I'm going to try just to see if theres any big difference between the two..I bought it off e-bay from a shop in tennessee for $299..ace has it for $309..I'll let you guys know how everything goes with it...breakend, tuning..ect,

Got it today!

What do you guys think of the aluminum ofna clutch shoes? (Im thinking they may be what I use)
I should have the pipe and everything waiting on me tomarrow at the track..so hopefully will get it broke in..

The manuel says to idle the first 125cc of gas.. then let cool(BDC)..then open the hsn 1/2 a turn and run the car on a track at Low rpm(bliping the throttle) for at least 375cc of fuel..let cool(BDC)..then I can start closeing the hsn so the engine makes more rmp but still ''sounds like a four stroke'' avoiding extended periods of throttle for another 375cc of gas..let cool(bdc)..then start closeing hsn more till its about 80% of the engines performance(still alot of smoke) for about 250cc of gas...let cool...then tune hsn till motors about 90% or 95% of its power(makeing sure not to overheat)..

This sound like a good break-in method?

everyone has there own opinion on this matter, my opinion is the manufacture can't be too far from being right. I'ld stick with what they say unless you can afford to experiment, with different methods. jmho.

I used OFNA shoes and enjoyed them. I had the blue ones, they also make a different compound that is purple (I forget which does which). Currently, I use Mugen Aluminum shoes and Mugen 1.0 springs (it was cheaper than the ONFA ones). One note, aluminum shoes are often lighter than their composite counterparts. I have been told that you should never run a spring stiffer than a 1.0 as this will not allow full engagement of your clutch with the practical RPM range of these type of motors. If your shoes are engaging too soon with a 1.0 spring, drill 1mm holes in the tips of the shoes instead of opting for the stiffer spring.

That break in method sounds pretty complex, but RB does seem to know their stuff. I would have just said run it above 200 degrees without sudden throttle inputs or anything much above half throttle for a half dozen tanks. Shutting it down every 2-3 minutes for the first couple tanks and letting the engine cool to ambient air temp. with the piston at BDC (the BDC part should be done for the life of the engine, not just break in).

I went to all these places and can't find the motor. Searched all over google and can't find an online store either. Any other place I can get one of these?

acehardwarehobbies.com got it for $305
I found this one in a e-bay store

You made the right decision. I love my WS7II too.
When I broke mine in I let the car drive from the first tank. I have heard from a german engine guru to break in the engines under load und not under 90° C. I wrapped the cooling head with aluminium foil so the engine would stay at about 90 to 100° C. Whether you let it idle or run it right away, I think the most important part is that it never runs too cool. An engine that runs too cool will wear down pretty fast because the piston and sleeve expand differently at different temperatures and after breaking it in it will already be worn.

When I had the first tank through, which took only about 3 minutes it was so rich, I let it sit until the next day at BDC.
The next day I drove it two tanks and made it a tiny bit leaner with every tank and increased the amounts and duration of full throttle. (I tune the new engines so I can give full throttle but they are so rich they don't rev up at all). Then the next day I went through about 4 tanks on the parking lot and leaned it ever further until it really performed at the end of the 8th overall tank. Then I went straightaway to a race (the one from my "internal combustion" video on my website) and as you can see it performed like hell. It did that all season long and now I have 17 litres through it and it's sitting in the basement with no noticeable compression loss since the first race. I love that beast!

I already got me another one (sadly not an X3), but I'll run my "old" one for races until I feel it's loosing its power or reliability. Then it will serve as a practice engine, and finally it'll come to my wall as the engine that won me the amateur class national championship.

got everything together...break in starts tomarrow