Screw it in until it stops turning, but don't crank it down after it stops turning otherwise it will mark up the needle and put in a ridge. I actually keep my needle valve closed at all times when its in storage and when I'm filling the tank. That way it does not flood the engine when I'm filling the tank. (I use a fuel T with a fuel dot which allows just one break in the line and a vent line. Two total rather than three lines to the fuel tank. Come out 1 3/4 to start. You have to listen very carefully. If you start turning in the needle valve in and the RPM stops increasing, and you start to hear a metal sound like your engine is about to explode, or even a metal pinging like it just starts sounding not as smooth, back off the needle valve fast. When you think you have it set right (maybe 1/8 turn rich from peak) then either pinch the line for .5 to .75 seconds. Just pinch it and say "one" and then let it go. If the rpm goes up you are ok. If the RPM stays the same or it starts to knock as described above, then richen it some. FInally hold up the plane vertically and listen again. If it starts to knock some, then richen it a little, 1/8 to 1/16 turn at a time. FInally, when you put it back on the ground, have someone hold it and then rev the engine from idle to full. Let it set at idle some and then quickly increase the throttle. GO through the procedures on the first post above for those details.

A few other words of advice. Don't let anyone in front of the prop when you are running it. Its a dangerous area. Finally, I recommend an aluminum spinner. Tru Turn has worked very well. I have a 1 3/4 true turn metal spinner on my funtana.

If I produced a video on this, basic pattern and 3D flying, and other tips, would you pay $25 or $ 30 for it? It takes a lot longer trying to describe it in words. It takes two minutes to show and demo these techniques on a video.