daveb86

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i just bought a hanger 9 aresti 40. havnt had it in the air yet due to ups shipping damage. ive heard all kinds of rumors about the plane, (breaking apart in air, ect, ect...) i want to know every little detail i can about this thing before i even take it up.

EXCAP232

My Feedback: (12)

This plane flies nicely. The gear is too short for most engines swinging larger diameter props. I always fiberglass center sections of the wing joints past the fuselage sides which would be recommended for this plane. If you have a computer radio set up spoilerons for landing. This plane is aerodynamically clean and doesn't slow down well landing (as most planes of this type are). A larger diameter lower pitch prop will help keep the speed more constant and slow the downlines. Check all glue joints you can get to. (This goes for all ARF's). Let us know when you get it in the air.

EXCAP232

Jim Oliver

My Feedback: (1)

I have the Aresti 40 with a Rossi 53 (two stroke), APC 11x5 prop. WAY too fast for pattern (more like the older ballistic pattern planes), out of sight vertical.

In view of the comments I have read concerning elevator flutter, I joined the two elevator halves with about 5 inches of 3/8 inch hardwood dowel/expoy. I then used one elevator pushrod without the "Y" setup. The Rossi turns the APC 11x5 at 15500 rpm, I take off with mix set to 15000 rpm--many flight without flutter. I have used an APC 10x7 at about 15000 with no flutter. I was very careful to get a good epoxy joint when mounting the horizontal stab and to NOT cut into the wood of the stab when removing the center covering.

I have not sealed the hinge lines, but probably should. I did take care to get the hinge lines very tight.

Did not glass the wing center section--just fitted carefully and used 30 min. epoxy.

If I were building this model for pattern type flying I would probably use a mid size 4 stroke, the Saito 72 seems to do fine on the two or three which I have seen. You will need to install the batt. behind the wing, anyway. I built a simple tray in the fuse behind the wing trailing edge former and cut the bottom fuse covering away just behind the wing to get the batt installed, then covered over the opening.

I would suggest a coat of thinned epoxy inside the nose and a couple of pieces of triangle stock at the firewall/fuse side joints.

Hope this helps.

shomenda

My Feedback: (2)

My Aresti 40 was purchased way back in 2001, powered by a YS63 turning a 12 X 7 APC. Assembled model per instruction manual. No problems. Airplane was used to compete in Sportsman Pattern. One suggestion, provided Hangar 9 hasn't already strengthened/modified the two piece landing gear in the current model, is to either add an aluminum plate over the existing gear parts before affixing gear with screws to fuselage bottom or ditching the two piece gear legs entirely and opting for a single piece fixed gear. Due to aerodynamics of the Aresti, it lands fast. Some landings can be harder than others. Avoid full stall landings and running off the runway. In conclusion, the two piece gear will eventually pull away from the fuselage. So do yourself a favor and correct the problem before it occurs. The old saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" don't apply here.

ninelaps

I built mine stock except for replacing the stock (very heavy) motor mount. With a OS 46AX & Tower muffler it needed quite a bit of tail weight - enough that I decided to move the elevator and rudder servo's to the tail. This required joining the elevator halves, overall very easy and nice to be rid of the Y pushrod.

raych

daveb86:
I've been flying my Aresti for about three seasons I guess.
With an O.S. 70 Surpass II I had to add a ton of tail weight to balance. I used the stock engine mount and didn't move any servos. I ended up adding a little compartment to the under-belly way back at the tail for the battery and that saved me 4 ozs.
The two-piece landing gear can be a problem like mentioned earlier. I caught mine in time. The two pieces act like two nail bars and pry the center of the belly away from the bulkhead. Mine was starting to develop a crack right down the centerline when I noticed it. It's a sweet flying plane, I think the differential in the aileron throws helps it to be so solid. I haven't seen it in the last few H9 advertisements so it looks like you may have one of the last ones.
Good luck, they come in hot.
Ray

EXCAP232

My Feedback: (12)

Quote from Pattern Student "I have the Aresti 40 with a Rossi 53 (two stroke), APC 11x5 prop. WAY too fast for pattern (more like the older ballistic pattern planes), out of sight vertical."

The speed of this or any other model is controlled by the throttle by the pilot. There is no reason to fly this at full throttle unless in an upline with options where the plane will slow. While the plane is capable of flying at the ballistic speeds of early pattern models the actual design is modern. Learning throttle control so the sequence is flown at a constant speed is desirable for time to think and a better looking maneuver. Many pilots use the throttle as an on/off switch. Down lines will be improved with the correct propeller acting as an air brake (large disc) on the front of the plane.

For additional information see the Pattern, Classic Pattern, IMAC, Don Szczur, Chip Hyde, Mike McConnville and related forums. I occasionally fly with Don (2003 nats pattern winner) and his sequences are flown at an amazingly constant speed. Read the judging rules for Pattern and IMAC www.mini-iac.com which includes judging criteria.

Hope this helps!

EXCAP232

Jim Oliver

My Feedback: (1)

Dear Mr. Moderator (EXCAP232),

Please re-read my post (no. 3) with special attention to paragraph five. I never said, or implied, that my throttle stick is inoperative or that it's location/function is unknown to me.

I didn't assemble the Aresti for pattern. I have several 2 meter AMA models as well as SPA models for that purpose.

Have a nice day.

daveb86

My Feedback: (4)

im trying to re-cover the stabalizer on the tail with hanger 9 ultracote, and am not having very good luck with doing so. i use a covering iron to tack the covering down, and when i go to shrink it with the heat gun, it always seems to pull up in some spots. (always at the fuelsalage). this is my first time ever covering so im looking for some tips... thank you!

daveb86

My Feedback: (4)

in addition to that last comment... the directions for the ultracote state that to adhere the covering to the plane, set your iron temperature to 220 degrees. i have a hobbico iron that has an adjustment on it but no temperature gauge. so i have no clue what the temp is at when I'm using it. any tips on that. aside from that. I'm not really looking to fly professional maneuvers and stuff with this plane, well not yet anyways, will this plane do fine with the way it is set up. not tieing the horizontal stabs together and what not. it is balanced perfect. i will beef up the landing gear though. also, the plane is used. i purchased it from a member on this website. the covering is starting to peel at edges and corners. any good ideas on how to take care of this problem, and how to maintain this beauty? in reply to EXCAP232, what is a good prop then? thank you

Ken Bryant

My Feedback: (10)

In the front page of RCU there is a guide on how to do covering. You might want to look there.

Don't use the heat gun to do anything with the covering. A heat gun is used for tightening it after it's on all the way. Use your iron to attach it to the elevator completly.

BTW, I have a YS 63 in my Aresti 40 and it flies GREAT!

Ken Bryant

My Feedback: (10)

Go to this link for the covering http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...?article_id=67

daveb86

My Feedback: (4)

thanks ken, that artiical helped a lot! well shes fixed, coveredand ready to fly! any thing else i should know before she goes up??

daveb86

My Feedback: (4)

Well i took it up for the first time today. i wish i could say it went better. the second it left the ground it was not wanting to lift. but with full throttle i was able to get it up. i leveled it off at about 25-30 feet and no sooner that i did that the engine quit! so here went my first dead stick landing. i accually did fairly well considering my lack of experience with this hobby but unforinutly the landing was a little rough and the nose bit hard. no damage to the airframe or covering itself but the motor mount seperated into three peices and in turn, tore the fiberglass cowl to peices. Any suggestions off hand as to why it just died like that. im pretty sure that the mixture was not really set right, could that have done it? let me know. thanks, Dave

SoonerAce

My Feedback: (1)

" im pretty sure that the mixture was not really set right."

That would do it![:@]

The lack of lift may have been due to the lack of RPMs. An over rich engine runs slow and sluggish. Grumpy if you will. Then you back out of it abit and it loads up. Gag, slurp, cough, thud.

When you get the plane back together, try the pinch test to check your mixture. Im sure someone here can give a great explanation of that in a later post if you need it.

Another thing is , fly it with out the cowling first, if it flys well after fuel mix adjustment, without cowl, put cowl on and try again, but be ready for a dead stick,,[:@],,, if it dies on you then, your looking at a cooling issue.[X(] open up the cowl and let it breathe abit more. Sorry, dats all I got!

daveb86

My Feedback: (4)

hey thanks yeah that helps. um...oh yeah what is the pinch test?

daveb86

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oh yeah and i really dont have a clue as to how to PROPERLY adjust the mixture. any help would be appreciated!

Rebellion

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You might want to get that cowl on order pretty quick, as the Aresti itself is " temporarily out of production ". They still have most of the parts available though.

EXCAP232

My Feedback: (12)

Pattern Student,
I have re-read your post as noted. Nothing in paragraph 5 mentions anything about speed. I also didn't say your trottle was inoperative. I just don't agree the plane is "WAY too fast for pattern". Speed is controlled by the throttle even though the plane design will have an effect. The one I fly has a YS-63 FS and can be flown too fast. This is true with most any plane. Flying the left stick is what is needed in Pattern or IMAC for better scores. Sorry if you were offended. This forum is for information exchange. It doesn't mean we all have to agree on every item. Glad to hear you have planes in your hanger. I have 3 dozen most of which are IMAC, pattern, warbirds or giant scale including a 1/3 Stearman and several 40+%.

Have a wonderful life,

EXCAP232

daveb86

My Feedback: (4)

hey while you guys are argueing over if the plane is to fast or not...mines not moving! lol i really need some advise on how to properly adjust my saito 72. please help! thank you, Dave

EXCAP232

My Feedback: (12)

Agreed! Time to get this back on track and get you moving.
Install the correct propeller that has been balanced. Use 15 to 20% nitro pattern fuel with at least 20% oil content. Using less oil will cause damage to the engine. Look for fuel marked 20/20 pattern fuel or the like. AVOID fuels that are labled 2 and/or 4 stroke as all that I have seen don't have enough oil. Prime the engine and get it started to run. You will need a tachometer to set the engine. It is all but impossible to set a 4 stroke without one properly. Bring the engine up to max RPM and then back off 300 rpm while breaking the engine in. Don't do any long strenuous maneuvers like very long uplines, downlines at full throttle or loops with no throttle down on the last half. The trick is to use the engine through all throttle settings. Getting the engine lean will cause it to backfire and spit the propeller off. The engine will naturally lean out near the end of the tank so be aware and lower the throttle setting. The idle won't be best until a good bit of fuel is run through it. Ringed engines take longer to run in. Use fresh fuel and a good plug (OS~F four stroke is what many use). Have your igniter fully charged or use a power panel with a meter. Good luck,

EXCAP232

Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

Dave,

I've got a Saito .72 on my Funtana. A couple of items. I normally check the high end by holding the plane vertically at full throttle for about 7 seconds to see if it starts to sag. I actually keep it just a click or two on the rich side. My high end needle is out just a bit past 1 1/2 turns. The pinch test also works (you pinch the line for a second and see how much the rpm goes up, or, if it just drops without first increasing, then your at peak or lean). I found helpful also the low speed needle adjustment. Check the low end by going to idle, letting it there then quickly accelerate the stick. If it hesitates or quits when you quickly advance the throttle, richen the low end. If it does not idle consistently (loads up when its at idle) lean the low end. I had to lean my low end a lot from the factory settings for a nice idle. Definitely run a fuel filter. I've fixed one that would not run right. I took the needle out and then pumped fuel through the vent line to clear the needle valve track.

I've used 10 percent fuel with excellent results in the Saito .72 I've run a 12x6 APC for extra throttle response on the 3D but I've normally flown the 13x6 APC.

Hope this helps.

Don

daveb86

My Feedback: (4)

the engine is very well broke in... im not sure where the needle is now i know its off though. so when i turn it all the way in, about how far should i turn it out. with out a tach, how do i know when its just right? will the pinch test suffice? let me know thanks, dave

Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

Screw it in until it stops turning, but don't crank it down after it stops turning otherwise it will mark up the needle and put in a ridge. I actually keep my needle valve closed at all times when its in storage and when I'm filling the tank. That way it does not flood the engine when I'm filling the tank. (I use a fuel T with a fuel dot which allows just one break in the line and a vent line. Two total rather than three lines to the fuel tank. Come out 1 3/4 to start. You have to listen very carefully. If you start turning in the needle valve in and the RPM stops increasing, and you start to hear a metal sound like your engine is about to explode, or even a metal pinging like it just starts sounding not as smooth, back off the needle valve fast. When you think you have it set right (maybe 1/8 turn rich from peak) then either pinch the line for .5 to .75 seconds. Just pinch it and say "one" and then let it go. If the rpm goes up you are ok. If the RPM stays the same or it starts to knock as described above, then richen it some. FInally hold up the plane vertically and listen again. If it starts to knock some, then richen it a little, 1/8 to 1/16 turn at a time. FInally, when you put it back on the ground, have someone hold it and then rev the engine from idle to full. Let it set at idle some and then quickly increase the throttle. GO through the procedures on the first post above for those details.

A few other words of advice. Don't let anyone in front of the prop when you are running it. Its a dangerous area. Finally, I recommend an aluminum spinner. Tru Turn has worked very well. I have a 1 3/4 true turn metal spinner on my funtana.

If I produced a video on this, basic pattern and 3D flying, and other tips, would you pay $25 or $ 30 for it? It takes a lot longer trying to describe it in words. It takes two minutes to show and demo these techniques on a video.

daveb86

My Feedback: (4)

hey thanks don, i also have a fuel t and only 2 lines entering a tank. alright as for adjusting the engine... i worked on it for about an hour i got is to where by sound, and the way it was running i had it. but when i held the plane vertical it would run for about 15 sec or less then stall out. now my judgment say its probly still to lean. what do you think. Also right now im running 15% nitro 16% oil mix. its what my local hobby shop said i sould use, but i dont really trust them. whats the best % fuel i should use for the saito 72? thank you very much! Dave.