I'm just now finishing mine. What I noticed during the week or so sticking it together:

The booklet sorta screws up the motor mounting descriptions. It says there is right thrust and no downthrust. And it shows the hole in the firewall as being the centering device for your motor mount. If you look at it for a couple of seconds, you will see that that hole is offcenter. It's moved over so the nose of the engine will line up in the center of the cowling (for the right thrust angle). Unfortunately, on mine, the hole is moved as if the firewall had right thrust and UP THRUST! I measured the incidences etc and measured about 3degrees of right thrust and almost 5 degrees of downthrust. If I'd used that hole to center my Dave Brown (I also thought the supplied mount was way too flexible) the prop would have been WAY off center. Best to always check these ARFs first.

I didn't think the wing joint needed glassing but then decided to run a short piece of fiberglass tape top and bottom around .25C and short pieces top and bottom at the trailing edge and CA'd it down. That's lighter than glass usually.

My cowling was a mess. Guess they pulled it from the mold way too soon. I cut some pink foam into discs (sort of big hockey pucks) that were round and fit tightly inside the cowl. I placed the first to sit flat against the firewall when the cowl was installed. Glued it to the cowl, then stacked a few more in. Needless to say, I had to leave room for the engine and pitts muffler, but after a little carving, the "filling" did 3 things. It made the cowl round again. It supports the heck out of the cowl (any forces from the front are transferred into the foam and from there into the firewall. And it does something real good for huge open front cowls that have tiny hot air exhaust vents that aren't anywhere near the engine.... the "packing" takes away the worthless open area and directs the air to the engine and muffler. (you'll never go wrong filling dead space in an engine compartment as long as you leave a front opening and cross sections from front to back that are about the size of your hot air exhaust's area)

They show the wing servos being installed in line with the wing ribs. The trailing edge and ailerons are swept forward quite a bit. I built the servos onto their trays to be square to the axis of the ailerons. The pushrods are at right angle to aileron axis. Easy to do. Should be this way anyway.

The tail wheel assembly had some problems. The big ugly, un-aerodynamic support tray that sticks out like a lump of wood (chuckle, which it is) covered in Ultracoat like that'd hide it, positions the axis of the tail wheel at an angle to the axis of the rudder. Not sensible. And the angle of the wire is way off (no biggie). So I cut out the big lump and inlet it and trimmed it to fit and ironed some Ultracoat on. Bent the wire to match the new angles. The tail wheel now tracks ok and nothing binds the rudder (the way it was shipped would have caused lots of servo load).

I'll be flying it within a few days. Gotta run the new .46AX a few times on the stand first.

oh yeah.... I wound up putting the rx battery beside the tank just behind the firewall. It's a flat pack and the slot to the side is perfect. And seems putting it opposite my 90degree motor would make left-right balance sense. And had put the motor servo forward (instead of in the 3-hole servo tray that's built in), no reason to have it behind the cg instead of on the cg or ahead. If I assemble another one of these, all three will be more toward the front. A servo tray is dead simple and quick to make.

Mine balanced right on the suggested cg. It's a pretty decent model. Looks like it oughta fly decent. It does need some more "designs" in the paintjob. Oughta take another hour or two and slap something flashy..... nah.... time to fly the sucker....