I imagine this thread may not be looked at, but are you saying the engine maker's manual should be ignored?
No I don't think that is what is being said, Just ignore all of them but Fantom's instructions. I have read the Fantom instructions and they are consistent with the way Shoestring, Dr Nitro and I teach a break in. I have yet to see any other car engine maker (other than Fantom) have instruction that are even remotely aimed at engine longevity.
I have a Revo and I followed the instructions to the letter. I now have a dog of a motor that won't even lift the wheels off the ground. I know that the best launch is one that the wheels stay on the ground, but I think the motor is a bit underpowered. Could this have been my fault from following the instructions?
YES. If you let it sit blubbery rich for
any amount of time, yes you were at fault for obeying the written instructions if thats what they instructed.
Furthermore, why would a manufacturer lie to it's customers? It is possible that I am running my engine too cool (about 200 by temp gun, but I am not sure what the emissivity level of blue, anodized aluminum is).
Because of the repair parts business. Why do you think that airplane engines are warrantied for three to five years and car engines are warrantied for a maximum of thirty days and the car parts cost is twice what airplane engines parts cost? Lets face it, they, (the importers) know that running the engines too cool and too rich will make the engine live just long enough to not have problems for the first thirty days (average consumer) then the customer has to purchase a piston and sleeve. (wholesale pistons/sleeve sets only cost about $10 for these big companies, but many of them retail for well over $100). The entire car industry has imprinted the false knowledge into their customers that car engines should only last a couple gallons of fuel, it is all about design obsolecence. Airplane flyers are as a whole too cheap to put up with those kind of games and I rarely see an airplane guy wearing out an engine. Most plane guys just start them up tune and fly. Now do you see why?
If I could get some help that would be fantastic. I wouldn't want to spend money on a new motor when I could get the most out of this one
Take the temp gun and throw it away, period.
Take a new engine out of the box, throw away the instructions (except of needle starting points),
Squirt a ltttle bit of oil in it fo some additional start up lube,
Check both needles to insure they are at the factory defaults,
Fire it up and immediatly get the engine up to design tempreture by tuning it to a rich but clean running condition (worry about the low speed needle after a tank or two),
You do not want it to run slobbery rich, you want it to run clean, but not lean.
PERIOD
Short wide open 5 ot 10 second blips is fine, grass, road, it does not really matter, but you must have full throttle running in there.
It is really that simple!, no VooDoo, no mystical magic, just pure simple and easy. After the first couple tanks running that way (with complete cool downs between tanks), you can start leaning out the high speed needle and dialing in the low speed needle. The key to success is crisp and clean running for break in. You will do more harm than good if you allow it to idle or run at all in a slobbery condition.