Step #4 is the tricky eye ball part. You need to project the servo wheel connection point onto the belly of the plane. My models have the servo mounted so that the elevator connection point is in the middle of the fuse with the servo on its side. There are lots of mounting options to get the servo on its side. Some guys use aluminum angle and cut it out for the servo on one side...The bolt the servo to the angle and then bolt the angle into the model. I use some fancy BVM aileron servo mounts.

I carry the vertical tape line around to the belly of the fuse and mark the middle of the belly location.

Then sue your straight edge to project the "V" or the angle the pushrod will have with the side of the fuse. This is where you may need a helper...Or maybe not. I eye ball from above where the intersection of the ruler and the fuse side is at the rear and I mark it with my sharpie pen.

I then use a dremel cordless tool and a small bit to make a hole in the fuse side.

NOTE: since the fuse is painted here is where you can screw up your paint. Put masking tape over every place you are going to cut. Make a small thin slot first. Then test fit.

Note#2: I no longer attach the 1/4" balsa sticks to each other. Nor do I wrap the entire length of the sticks anymore. This is overkill. I just lay the sticks with tubes attached into the fuse and span the gap.

Using a small rat tail file open the slots up to accept the pushrod inside its sleeve. This is why the teflon sleeves work good in this application is the O.D. of the sleeve is smaller. Basically if it is binding up the length of the slot needs to be enlarged.

Also you will need to file at an angle like the pushrod will be exiting to get the taper on the slot correct.