Install the DEPS elevator system in a painted fuse
#51

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From: Bacolod, PHILIPPINES
KeithB,
Hi, me and my buddy are also building our brios. Can you give us hints how did you install the DEPS. Whats the distance of your exit holes to the elevator horns. Did you move you elevator servo back? Please post your pictures on your brio. Thanks.
Hi, me and my buddy are also building our brios. Can you give us hints how did you install the DEPS. Whats the distance of your exit holes to the elevator horns. Did you move you elevator servo back? Please post your pictures on your brio. Thanks.
#52
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From: Garland,
TX
I've been out of town and very busy with work so my progress has stalled over the last couple of weeks. All I've done so far is cut the holes in the fuse and glue the sleeves /pushrods to 1/4" balsa spars.
Hopefully I'll start work again today. I'll post some pictures and measurements once I'm done.
Keith B
Hopefully I'll start work again today. I'll post some pictures and measurements once I'm done.
Keith B
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From: Philippines, , PHILIPPINES
Kieth B,
How's the build going? Hope you could enlighten us with your DEPS equipped Brio. Were you able to reduce the 12inch length of the exit holes to the control horn?
How's the build going? Hope you could enlighten us with your DEPS equipped Brio. Were you able to reduce the 12inch length of the exit holes to the control horn?
#54

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From: Tracy,
CA
Although mine is not the Brio, My exit holes are about 10 3/4 inches away from the horn. There seems to be alot of flex if you have the elevator deflected and push or pull by hand on the elevator. I wish I would have known that it would have turned out this way before I installed it. I would have went with a bellcrank. I'll probably put a hollow carbon rod over the solid rod.. Ghetto in my opinion..
#55

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Patternflyer1
Both of my electric Genesis have the DEPS system. Both have the exit holes about 10 1/2" away from the horn. So far no problems. They have been rock steady in the air. You may want to fly the plane first. You can always use sewing thread and thin CA and lash a parallel 0.070" solid CF rod next to the exposed rod.
Steve
Both of my electric Genesis have the DEPS system. Both have the exit holes about 10 1/2" away from the horn. So far no problems. They have been rock steady in the air. You may want to fly the plane first. You can always use sewing thread and thin CA and lash a parallel 0.070" solid CF rod next to the exposed rod.
Steve
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From: Tracy,
CA
Steve
Thanks for the advice. Nice to know that it works for someone at that distance. But as for me, I'm not willing to put all this money in the air to test out the DEPS. I'd rather add the extra hollow rod over the solid rod outside the fuse. It's just a little frustrating to have to add the extra weight, as this is electric also and I'm right at 11 lbs as it is. I wish centrals site would actually tell you the max distance the rod can travel outside the fuse. I would not have used this system or I would have ran the single rod further back before I started the y. No biggie, just gotta add the rod.
Thanks
Thanks for the advice. Nice to know that it works for someone at that distance. But as for me, I'm not willing to put all this money in the air to test out the DEPS. I'd rather add the extra hollow rod over the solid rod outside the fuse. It's just a little frustrating to have to add the extra weight, as this is electric also and I'm right at 11 lbs as it is. I wish centrals site would actually tell you the max distance the rod can travel outside the fuse. I would not have used this system or I would have ran the single rod further back before I started the y. No biggie, just gotta add the rod.
Thanks
#57
For my Focus, RIP
, I had some flexing issues both inside and outside the fuse. I joked that I should write an article on how NOT to install DEPS!
Anyway, the distance on the outside was about 9 inches, but the rods didn't come directly to the horns. So when everything was hooked up, there was a slight bow of a couple degrees to the elevator surface horn. It flew okay for about 30 flights but then I started getting flutter. When I inspected it closely it looked like the hardware had worn just enough, barely perceptible, to let the elevator start oscillating. Just as a test, I tie wrapped another rod next to the exposed rods, kind of like Steve was suggesting, and tested it at home.
Looked promising so I used some 1/8" carbon tube like Troy suggested and the results were very tight. On the inside my single rod to the sleeves was too long, so once I fixed the problem on the outside of the plane, if you held the elevators under load, the Y on the inside would buckle under load. A couple sticks of 1/4" sq. in the right place fixed that.
The 1/8 tube should work pretty well Chris, it may look ghetto to you, but I would bet most wouldn't notice it.
, I had some flexing issues both inside and outside the fuse. I joked that I should write an article on how NOT to install DEPS!Anyway, the distance on the outside was about 9 inches, but the rods didn't come directly to the horns. So when everything was hooked up, there was a slight bow of a couple degrees to the elevator surface horn. It flew okay for about 30 flights but then I started getting flutter. When I inspected it closely it looked like the hardware had worn just enough, barely perceptible, to let the elevator start oscillating. Just as a test, I tie wrapped another rod next to the exposed rods, kind of like Steve was suggesting, and tested it at home.
Looked promising so I used some 1/8" carbon tube like Troy suggested and the results were very tight. On the inside my single rod to the sleeves was too long, so once I fixed the problem on the outside of the plane, if you held the elevators under load, the Y on the inside would buckle under load. A couple sticks of 1/4" sq. in the right place fixed that.
The 1/8 tube should work pretty well Chris, it may look ghetto to you, but I would bet most wouldn't notice it.
#58

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From: Tracy,
CA
Yeah, I know it'll work Tom. But you know me, and I just don't think it's acceptable that it's not mentioned on the website or in the instructions. Plus, the ghetto factor. I didn't spend all this money to have a ghetto looking elevator setup outside the plane, ya know. I'm suprised that you didn't use a bellcrank in your new one. I'll post pics when I complete it in a few hours.
And by the way, what are you doing on the computer?? Get that thing done so we can go fly!!!!!!!!!!!
Chris
And by the way, what are you doing on the computer?? Get that thing done so we can go fly!!!!!!!!!!!
Chris
#59
Chris, I guess I am surprised that I'm using DEPS again too... I did swear never again! But I guess I wanted to give the DEPS one more try. I proved with my last plane that you can screw it up royally in the installation and still be able to fix it into a proper hook up. So I was a little less stressed with the Genesis. I elected to go with the two rods joining at the servo horn. The installation is not totally complete, one of the titanium female fittings was without a hole... so that stopped my progress last night. Called Central this morning and they are sending out another one for me... But even with that it looks like this will work pretty well.
I ended up with the rods exiting about 7.25" from the horn, and it looks like it should be pretty tight. The first time we tried lining things up the exit was going to be about 11". That being unaccepable, I moved the horns in as far as I could go and was able to knock off about 4". Should work pretty well now.
I ended up with the rods exiting about 7.25" from the horn, and it looks like it should be pretty tight. The first time we tried lining things up the exit was going to be about 11". That being unaccepable, I moved the horns in as far as I could go and was able to knock off about 4". Should work pretty well now.
#60
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Senior Member
Chris, Tom,
A 2-3 inch span of the 1/8" Cf tube will be enough to stiffen it up. It only weighs a couple grams tops with the glue. I just put a 35 inch section on my scale at it is 7g
So is you use 3" sections on each side its only 1g in CF plus the glue. The result is really rigid and nearly no weight. I tried it on my model. I took the titanium ends off with a little heat and then slid the 1/8" tubes over the top. A little thin CA down the tube will secure it well and I used some med to build up some fillets like at the ends of the hollow tubing. then sanded the CF rods ends and reglue the ends in place.
If 2g is too much weight to add loose some of that thread you stuck on the balsa sticks. I used about four 1/2 inch sections to tie the tubing to the balsa sticks. The tube doesn't need to be a mummy inside the thread just supported to not move.
I used the teflon sleeve material from CST. Works great. I also have a small 40 size model I used the system with and used some 0.050" CF rods with dubro antenna tubes for guides worked well. These smaller rods got a little flex and I just installed some short 1/8 in sections at mid span. Now its stiff and solid.
Model looks really good. I'm curious on the AXI motor.
I had plans to make my Brio E power but after I got it from Central I was very disappointed in its quality of both materials and workmanship. I may do a Genesis however I'm not a big fan of chip airplanes either.
Allen
A 2-3 inch span of the 1/8" Cf tube will be enough to stiffen it up. It only weighs a couple grams tops with the glue. I just put a 35 inch section on my scale at it is 7g
So is you use 3" sections on each side its only 1g in CF plus the glue. The result is really rigid and nearly no weight. I tried it on my model. I took the titanium ends off with a little heat and then slid the 1/8" tubes over the top. A little thin CA down the tube will secure it well and I used some med to build up some fillets like at the ends of the hollow tubing. then sanded the CF rods ends and reglue the ends in place.
If 2g is too much weight to add loose some of that thread you stuck on the balsa sticks. I used about four 1/2 inch sections to tie the tubing to the balsa sticks. The tube doesn't need to be a mummy inside the thread just supported to not move.
I used the teflon sleeve material from CST. Works great. I also have a small 40 size model I used the system with and used some 0.050" CF rods with dubro antenna tubes for guides worked well. These smaller rods got a little flex and I just installed some short 1/8 in sections at mid span. Now its stiff and solid.
Model looks really good. I'm curious on the AXI motor.
I had plans to make my Brio E power but after I got it from Central I was very disappointed in its quality of both materials and workmanship. I may do a Genesis however I'm not a big fan of chip airplanes either.
Allen
#61
Allen,
Thanks for the advice. I had already planned on putting the 1/8" tube over the rods to stiffen it up. It's stiff now, and probably doesn't need it, but I'm going to do it anyway as it's almost no weight at all like you pointed out. Once installed, the rod doesn't look out of place at all really, and only somebody who is familiar with DEPS would notice anyway... and if they are familiar, they likely understand why you did it.
The AXI... there are a few threads about the new AXI on the electric pattern forum. I have about 70 flights with the AXI 5330/F3A motor and cannot say enough about it. The power is amazing, and the system that I have been running is simply bullet proof so far. I hope to fly my Genesis with the AXI next week or soon after and am expecting a great combination. The only downside with the AXI is it's weight, about 4 ounces heavier than the Hacker, but with the right battery combination that's not a problem at all.
I'm not a big fan of Chip's airplanes either, but the Genesis looks to me more like a Columbo design than anything that Chip has put out previously. The Eclipse is a great airplane, had one for about a year and loved it, and I'm not expecting anything less from this plane either.
T
Thanks for the advice. I had already planned on putting the 1/8" tube over the rods to stiffen it up. It's stiff now, and probably doesn't need it, but I'm going to do it anyway as it's almost no weight at all like you pointed out. Once installed, the rod doesn't look out of place at all really, and only somebody who is familiar with DEPS would notice anyway... and if they are familiar, they likely understand why you did it.
The AXI... there are a few threads about the new AXI on the electric pattern forum. I have about 70 flights with the AXI 5330/F3A motor and cannot say enough about it. The power is amazing, and the system that I have been running is simply bullet proof so far. I hope to fly my Genesis with the AXI next week or soon after and am expecting a great combination. The only downside with the AXI is it's weight, about 4 ounces heavier than the Hacker, but with the right battery combination that's not a problem at all.
I'm not a big fan of Chip's airplanes either, but the Genesis looks to me more like a Columbo design than anything that Chip has put out previously. The Eclipse is a great airplane, had one for about a year and loved it, and I'm not expecting anything less from this plane either.
T



