Its a Tony Frakowiack thing, He convinced me to use it. I used to think that the Kevlar threads or the steel fishing line with nylon coating were good...until we got to these models with very effective rudders, and needing large travels for rolling loops and circles. Also I think my flying got a little better and I could feel when the model was not right. I have said before, having never flown a properly trimmed model its tough for a guy to know it is trimmed....Basically we get happy that this one is better than the last one and thats good enough. I learned it is not good enough! Helped a guy today with a New Supreme. I really like mine and he has one. There was a little problem with loop tracking and up and down lines. We got it about 80% and he is thrilled its the best he has ever flown. I should hand him my Supreme and then he'll be willing to go the next 15-20% with me.

The cable is SIG MFG control line cable, 0.015". Couplers are Sullivan makes a 2-56 Brass coupler that is really a brass tube that is threaded on one end. SUL512 is the part number I think. This is an (8) pack.

I then put these into the NMP 2mm DARE (Dual Axis Rod Ends) ball link things. I use MK clevis 2mm on the rudder horn side. Yes it is adjustable at 4 places..but never needs adjustment. The cable never stretches or gets loose.

What you do is the stainless steel control line cable will not solder all that well...but the brass does. So fold a tight loop or hook in the end of the control line cable...then fish it into the coupler. Place the soldering iron up at the threads of the coupler and heat. Feed solder in from the end of the tube and solder will seek the heat, and fill the coupler around the wire. I then crimp the brass coupler a couple times and heat the solder to fill the tube in the crimps and cracks. This acts to trap the hook of the stainless wire and it will not come out. Yes it is the same connection on both sides.

With this setup you don't get a spongy feeling rudder. It also allows you to run your cables tight (banjo tight) if the linkage is properly setup mechanically that is. The result is you have a great, solid feeling rudder.

I have found this to be the best change in the rudder I have ever seen. I also stick the biggest beefiest servo on the rudder. I'm running 8611's. Yes its over kill but the rudder has a very good feel and is very very solid. You also have to have a long rudder control horn. My horns are about 1.5" from the hinge line on the rudder. This gives good mechanical advantage. Some guys have the rudder horn connection point about ¼” off the surface of the rudder….This contributes to a spongy feel and eliminates mechanical advantage on the surface that needs it the most.

Then I use the largest JR servo wheel and sometimes stick a plywood, CF, or G10 extension on the wheel to get the throw I need. My Pinnacles I have the big giant Airtronics wheels. They are larger than the JR round wheels by an extra hole and the splines fit JR.

I don't exaggerate the cables are pretty tight. People have plucked them and got concerned they were too tight You could play the banjo on them...but the stainless cable doesn't give-stretch-flex...Another thing is the cable is very light weight. All the other cables I tried felt spongy or soft at neutral and would stretch over time...The Kevlar ones seemed to be humidity and temp dependant. I know Aramid fiber is not suppose to change under temps...but it seemed that if I went to a dry climate like AZ they got loose and going to a wet climate like Atlanta they got tighter. The control line cable doesn't seem to have this problem....and it doesn't seem to be effected by temps either although I thought it should be.

Troy