Cooling air derlector baffle installation

Keith,

When I get started building an airplane, it's an obsession. I keep on going until I finish. I have some vacation comming up. So..................................I hope to finish the plane in a week or two.

Attached is a picture from the rear of the motor. The motor actually extends beyond the ring by 1/8". I use RTV now by accident to hold in the motor nose ring. At the North Dallas contest, with my Electric Eclipse, I had a slightly hard landing and the plane nosed over with the engine at idle. Except for hurting my pride and loosing 3/8" off the prop tips, I thought I was OK. On return to the pits, I noticed the engine spinner was not matching the fuse. It seems the jolt of the landing broke out the nose ring microbaloon and epoxy. I simply cleaned off the old microbaloon and reinstalled the ring with clear RTV. I know this stuff sticks to fiberglass. Have you every tried to remove nose weights after they have been installed with RTV. It is almost impossible to remove the RTV. The CF flex plate is similar to the FG flex plate used on the foamys to make control horns. In this case it is a little stiffer and thicker. This is almost the same stuff as the old Bob Violett flex plate.

The 13XL has approx. 13% more RPMs. I like the wider speed range of Todd Blose's Genesis with the 13XL motor. I'll be using the APC 20-15e, 20-13e and 21-12we props to see which one I like the most. Todd's 13 XL with the 20-13 pull some 74+ amps. It's OK with the TP 5300 packs but will be too much with my TP 6000 gen II lite packs. I'll need to practice better throttle management with the 13XL motor.