T28,
I can respectfully agree with Homebrewer, According to conventional and collective wisdom as gathered over many years of modeling by Experts such as the late George Aldrich and Dave Geirke. That wisdom is well described in Dave Geirke's books and homebrewer hit it right. Seating a ring will need to have an extremely rich setting, slobbering if you will. It will need to be heat cycled which is run three or four minutes and shut down to cool off. Read the book for more details.
My experience with Thunder Tiger engines is with the ringed 120.
After a carefull RINGED break-in with low nitro fuels (I used 5% nitro, 10% castor and 10% synthetic), after three gallons on the bench, I was able to start getting to where it would hold a max rpm setting for 30 seconds or more without sagging- sign of an engine ready to fly. I then ran a couple tanks of my flying fuel which is 10% nitro, 18% synthetic and 2% castor to fine tune my needles.

TT engines will reward you with a fine running reliable machine if properly broken in to type. Yes, 0% nitro is fine for break in, but looking at your post above, you can make your own 5% by mixing equal amounts of your 10% and 0% fuel. Please insure that your fuel contains 20% lube (preferably some castor), and DO NOT run any fuel on the market labeled "Buggy/Car", most of these fuels (CCB Fuels being an exception) do not contain enough oil for this engine. Your engine is a Heli engine and not designed to be run on traditional low oil buggy fuels. After break-in, run a heli fuel if you desire but never a low oil fuel. Remember to use the air filter. Thunder Tiger's are fine engines and I run them often.

For more information please e-mail me directly.

Fuelman