Ill be getting the rest of the stuff for my ultimate tommorow and will be wanting to try hovering with it. I can do it good on the realflight sim but im nervous to actually try it for the first time with a real plane.

So, should I try it close to the ground (like 10 feet up?) so if I screw up and wreck the impact wont be as hard or should I do it up higher (say 25-50 feet?) so if I screw up I can maybe pull out and keep flying?

Ill be doing it about some pretty thick grass (at leat 6"s tall, taller in some places) so hopefully that will soften the impact if I mess up and crash.

One more thing, how far away from me should I try it? I suppose its probobly easier to see whats going on with it closer but then you risk getting hurt if you mess up.

Hi,

You should be ok if you can do it on the sim( hovering that is). You dont want to do it up high cause you cant see what its doing too well, and its hard to learn that way. For your first couple of tries have a bit of airspace below your plane, but you will find it a lot eaiser lower down, and in closer(to a point)
Try just flying around slowly in high angle of attack type flight, and gradually raise the nose until its verticle. It will start to torque once it in a hover, and you will most likely lose it when it turns it back on you, so try use the rudder to 'prop up' the low wing as it turns on its back. Forget the alierons initially, concentrate on the rudder/elevator, and get the throttle sorted. What helps if you are about to crash is to cut the throttle, and that should reduce most of the impact.
Also, keep practising on the sim.

Stefan

Agree. I have the same issue with glow planes (hard to risk a plane you have 300 hours and alot of $$ invested in) but with a $10 foamie do it as low as possible!
I'd go as low as you are comfortable with and see how much lower you can take it. Before you know it you'll be dragging ***** like a dawg with worms

Just do lots of harriers and pull it into hover then push forward back into harrier, keep doing that until you can keep it in hover. Next thing ya know you'll be in your living room.

Thanks for the info, I was expecting my receiver and speed controller to come in today but I guess since monday was a holiday its been dalayed till tommorow, hopefully Ill get to fly it tommorow

I know what you mean, weve got a garage full of glow powered kit built planes I could be flying (most my dads, but some are mine) but once youve spent all that time building them and all that money on them it makes you a little scared. Easier (and cheaper) to learn on foam plane.

Still yet the foamies arent "that" cheap, well theyre pretty cheap but not cheap enough to just throw around, the ultimate kit was 45 bucks then when you figure up all the electronics they get pretty expensive (all together my ultimates at about $220, without a brushless setup).

Its amazing how much it cost to get a peice of "european" insulation to fly [8D].

I can hover now with my 3d foamy for about 5 seconds max. I just watched videos of hovering, and tried it about 50 feet in the air. Mostly, just come slowly forward, go back full elvator and get vertical, then use rudder and elvator and some throttle to stay vertical and still. Its pretty hard to learn, but im gonna keep trying. I learned to fly inverted, and do rolls and such with my flight sim

Also, what helps if you can get your CG as far back as possible. However if you go too far it will be really nice to hover, but not really nice to fly. Do some experimenting. Try and be smooth on the sticks in a hover.

Stefan

THere is an instructional video at www.flyingcirkus.com. Go to the 3d university section. You can also check out 3dbatix for instructional videos.

Thanks for all the info, I flew my ultimate today and tried to hover it. I did better than I had thought I would, I actually hovered it for a few seconds, then it started torque rolling on its own and I lost it into some bushes, no damages.

However as always my bad luck got me, I just landed my plane adn it tipped forward so I went to get it and when I got their the motor wouldnt work. I smelt it and it smelt burned.

I took the motor apart and shure enough both brushes were disintegrated. One was completely gone nowhere to be found and the other apperentely flew off and melted into the plastic that held them inplace. I dont know why they burnt out so fast, I was using the recomended setup and had only flown it for like 5 minutes.

After the plane landed it tipped forward and I dont know if its what caused it but I think I still had the throttle on at about 1/2 speed and didnt notice it till I got over to the plane and noticed the motor didnt work. Could this have burnt the motor out? The prop was resting on the ground and couldnt spin.

I checked on the horizon site and my bad luck struck again, their out of the motors till "late october". The only other motors I can find are a parkzone speed 370, and a great planes speed 370 but I dont know if they will work as I cant find any specs for the stock motor.

Yep, a stalled motor will draw huge current, and this is what burned your motor. Always make sure you cut the throttle when the plane tips over, or something bolcks the prop so it cant turn. Well at least you will know for next time anyway...
Would a GWS 300C motor be a substitute?

Stefan

Yes, I always make sure to cut the throttle after I crash or land, I usually do it long before the plane hits the ground, I guess with the excitment of my new plane I somehow forgot to cut the throttle after it tipped over. I guess it was a good lesson anyways.

Im not shure if the GWS 300 will work, Im a bit confused about the mtoor names, ive seen some called 360's, some 300's and some 370's but they all seems to be the same can size, I guess theyre all the same but I dont know.

I ended up getting a great planes 370 motor, from the specs it sounds like it migth be better than the stock motor. Claims to turn up to 30,000 rpm's no-load, has some high strength magnets, etc.

I also ordered a GWS heat sink, Itll probobly do nothing more than add a few grams of weight but it was only $1.75 and I thought it looked neat so I got one.

I'm not 100% sure, about what is different with the motors. I do know that the bigger the number of the motor, ie. 300 and 350, the stonger the motor. With these ferrite motors I would assume that they have more winds inside them and/or bigger magnets. However, some of the sizes of the cans are the same. A gws 300 is the same externally as a gws 400. Again, I'm not 100% but it sounds good......right?

Its all quite confusing to me, I wish their was a website or something that told all about it.

The motor I ordered (T-370) GP says this about it "Larger diameter winds with fewer turns produce considerable torque for powering small electric R/C planes and medium-size park flyers." The can is .96"diameter and is 1.2"s long.

A great planes speed 280 (t-280 or s-280 for the ball bearing version) GP says this, "Both of these 280-size motors are designed for park flyers, or other airplanes that require a 280-size motor. The S-280 is great for stronger climbs and longer flights, while the T-280 provides the muscle needed for aerobatic applications." The can size is .94"s diameter (.2"s difference from the 370) but is about a hlaf inch longer than a 370.

For GWS motors I found that a 300, 300h, and 350 are all physically the same size but have different kv ratings (300h having the lowest and 350 the highest), and are apperently physically the same size as a 370 motor.

Maybe the number just refers to the can size? For example anything the 100's is physicaly the same size, anything in the 200's is the same size, anything in the 300's the same size, etc.

Maybe somone else can shed some light on the topic?

I found this at R/C Proving Grounds (http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...ower/index.htm)

How are motor sizes specified?
Motors are traditionally specified by a system which attempts to equate them to wet engines. There are significant problems with this, but they probably aren't of concern to beginners. An "05" motor takes a six or seven cell battery and puts out 75 to 120 watts, and so on up to a "60" which takes 28 cells and puts out 1200 watts. Incidentally, there are about 750 watts in a horsepower.
The actual power output for a given voltage (number of cells) depends on the load. Unlike wet engines, electric motors put out more power with more load. If you don't like the performance you get from your plane, you can try a bigger propellor, up to a point. More power, of course, means less run time.
In the ideal world, motors would be specified by the total power they are capable of supporting and by the number of cells (or voltage) with which that power is produced.

Maybe you can make more sense of this......