ca$hey

psycho im intrested in how that flexy yak will go beagges

jrobert59

TManiaci,

Looks like your the man with the E-flite Yak!. I plan on getting the plane asap and following the mods you have recommended. I wanted to ask you about the motor choice. I called Hobby Lobby today and they recommended the higher turn motor Axi 2212/26. They said you can use a bigger prop with it for 3D vs. the 20 wind which is more for a speed prop.

It sounds like you've got this setup pretty dialed in but I just wanted to hear your thoughts on this before I order. Also the battery thing, I've got a TP 3S 1320mah already but it sounds like I'd been *****g the battery out with this motor.

If anybody else has any thoughts on what is the best setup for an outrunner for this plane please chime in.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Jeff

ca$hey

mate im not sure if its the done thing in the us but iv been running a 1200kv outrunner with a 10.5-5.5 prop 25 phonix 1250 3cell 20c batt for about 50 orso flights not a problem vertical is sweet cheers

3-D Flyer

My Feedback: (150)

Just got the Axi-2212/20 and all the gear a few days ago, i personally am taking t-mans word on what seems to be an awesome setup, I'm sure w'ell be happy. You can tell T-man knows his stuff with this electric stuff, i'm a little ignorant on elecric stuff as i devote all my time with gassers.... You guys helping me out saves alot of time and agrivation in the set-up process of this plane. Again thanks for the advise, once i get my 33% Cap580 off the bench and my photo shoot for all my sale items done i'll finally get to build this thing for my son. No rush as it's still WINDY and cold here anyways.

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

I like the lower Kv rating on the 2212/26 @ 920, and it will swing a bigger prop. However, note that the /26 motor is rated 10A continuous, 12A burst. The 2212/20 (1150 Kv) is rated 12A cont., 16A burst. This is the basis by which I place my preference on the /20, becasue it has a higher current capacity. Yea, you fly a bit smaller prop, but you get far higher safe wattage yield from it too.

We are running these motors well over ratings to get a light build and great performance... setting up for 18-22 amps is a big no-no. But, the AXI is a very high quality motor, and performs well in these conditions without excessive overheating.

I am flattered that you guys have a high regard for my opinion. However, I don't want to mislead. I will stress again, my recommendations are overloading the motor considerably with this setup. Mine performs so well, I put the same setup into my new Fliton Edge 540 Mini, a 20 oz plane, and I'm really pleased with the power. It's not ballistic, but it has damn good vertical and will pull out of a hover well enough. It's pulling 22 amps WOT on the APC 10x3.8 prop. The light setup makes the bird fly so light on the wing, it's worth the sacrifice of monster power.

Now, after 5 flight so far on the Edge, duration 10-12 minutes each, I have checked the motor, battery and ESC immediatly after landing, and only see slight warming (less than 120ºF) on the hardware. I am feeding the setup with a 3S 1500 mAH 15C battery though, so I have a 22.5 amp continuous duty capacity.

I think a key thing I would stress is, this is not intended to be run WOT for long periods. We are setting up the system for "burst" conditions to get awesome performance for short periods.

I would say I limit my WOT runs generally to 5 seconds duration or less, and maybe only do that a dozen or two times per flight. My experimentation indicates it's probably safe to run WOT for up to 15 seconds static with only moderate heating.

Hover is around 1/2 throttle on the Yak with this very setup, but you are drawing less than 10 amps to do that. Sustained long hover is not a great idea, and if you do that check for heating, but it should be fine because you are actually running under the ratings there. Trouble is you are not getting good flow-thru cooling in a hover.

This "hover at rating" is the basis for this setup technique... hover at or just below ratings, and reserve that ballistic performance for short thrills and that extra get-out-of-trouble blastoff. All bets are off if you go WOT for 3 minutes, you WILL cook something.

One thing you will notice here, is that you will start tripping the 9V LVC at WOT, but you will have enough reserve to fly 1/2T for another 5 minutes or so. My last flight, the 1500 mAH lipo took 963 mAH charge and was tripping LVC at WOT after 10 minuted flying.

As for battery match... I would always recommend that you NEVER run loads over the lipo's C rating. If you only have lipos that support 15 amps, then you should downsize the prop for that load. You will kill the battery after a while working it that hard. Lipo's have a life, and with moderate working they should go hundereds of cycles. Run them beyond their ratings for extended periods time after time, you'll be lucky if they last 80 cycles, even less if they are high-discharge 15C, 20C or greater batteries.

Which version of the TP1320 do you have? Is it a Prolite?

jrobert59

Thanks everyone for your responses. I have the newest TP 3S 1320mah (13C) battery.

TManiaci, what would be your second choice for motor if I didn't want to push the limit of the battery as hard? I like the idea of having a versatile power system that could be used in other planes in the 15 to 20 oz. range. Would the lower amp rating of the Axi 2212/26 with a larger prop result in a lower amp draw with still great 3D performance? I know there's always a tradeoff between high power and keeping it light.
I

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

jrobert59,

I would still stay with the 2212/20, and just downsize the prop to keep the load within the 17 amp limit WOT. My guess would be an APC 9x3.8 to 9x4.7 would be about right, load testing to verify that. I know what you're thinking, smaller prop, not good for 3D. Ehhhh, I don't think that little bit will make a noticeable difference unless you're QiuQiu Somenzini. Dropping to the /26 will realy limit your potential wattge range if you choose to kick it up with more battery later or move to a heavier plane.

My opinion...

tf2psycho

Get Real

hi all.. i attended e-fest today and something that may intrest you guys is this new yak.. the ''Byp Yak'' no info on pricing or release date at this time.. it was set up very light for indoors and could really crawl around slow and precise. one of the pilots flying it was even hovering it one handed for several seconds at a time at 3 to 4 feet.. nice guy and good pilot. QQ also demoed this new one as well and there were as many as 3 flying at a single time while i was there.. the pilots really did some nice maneuvers with them.. a couple of them were set up with a VPP set up. ive since gutted my original yak for equipment and disgarded it.. i told myself i wasnt gonna fly foamies anymore because there so easy to fly and maneuver but im having a hard time sticking to it after watching the indoor set ups and seeing this plane fly. it is a new design.. similar but it has subtle differences in fuselage/ wing and elevator are totally different. several magazines were represented at event so more info should be out soon as well as info from other attendies of event on here. heres some pics and if i have time i may post QQs demo and some other footage i shot of it flying.

tf2psycho

we have all wanted this plane for some time... i have videos and pics of it 2 all over my yak54f posts on a different thread..... but whos going to sell this bird and when is the question ?? [link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=349869&page=37#post4090638]qq bipe video and pics link[/link]

[link=http://67.18.81.100/rcuvideos/magazine/reviews/509/quiquesomenzini.wmv]2005 bi-plane video etoc[/link]

jrobert59

Just wanted to hear the latest thoughts on the best CG setup for the Yak. The recommended range in the manual is 3/8" to 1 3/4". Because of the landing gear being in the way my CG seems to be only at one of those extremes. In other words, when I move the battery to adjust CG it's either in the front battery compartment or it's way back under the wing behind the aileron servo.

So the CG is either about 1/2" from the front spar or close to 1 3/4" with no choices in between. I can move the receiver and esc up into the front battery compartment but then the receiver is very close to the esc.

I'm just an intermediate flyer and wanting to learn 3D. I would appreciate any feedback from those who have already dealt with this issue. BTW, my setup is Park 400 motor, Phoenix 25, HS-55 servos and otherwise stock setup.

Thanks.

ca$hey

jrobert
I had the same thing i moved esc to front compartment and mounted bat just infront of aleron sevo it slides in and out sideways i glued a peice of foam in the top and a 6mm depron in bottom for bat to sit on i used velcro but i used the non furey bit on bat and on depron shelf iv never had bat come out but very easy to slide in and out hope this helps

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

jrobert59,

We had the same issues, and took a different approach. We hated the pull-pull tailfeather controls. So, we put in pushrod controls, and moved the rudder servo onto the side and back even with the elevator servo. It make the balance much better with the battery in the forward cavity.

Another solution is to put a depron panel over the aileron servo so you can put the battery further forward in the wing cavity. Better yet, put in dual aileron servos outside on the wing root, and leave lots of room for the battery under the wing.

tf2psycho

my batt location on the 370 brushless setup..... i miss this plane it flew over 200 flights untill i drank too much and crashed doing low tricks like a stupied idiot i hate that i broke my yak into 3 peices and didnt glue it back together because i wanted to try the cap 580 which i hate and only fly once in a grat while or eles i would have a heart attack i like the yak 54f with low control movement flew very smooth and easy knife edge flight without doing much to the sticks.....i have the yak55 flight flex supposed to be industructable but i need some more money before i can fly it ....i am spending money on star wars empire at war instead this week it comes out feb 16 !!!

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

Don't mind psyco, he's okay in my book, when he's not drinking

tf2psycho

the ultimate rc toy [link=http://science.nasa.gov/newhome/headlines/prop16apr99_1.htm]Science mimics science fiction as a working model flying disc - a "Lightcraft" - takes to the air[/link] nasa.gov site link about real disk they made

[link=http://www.rpi.edu/dept/NewsComm/Magazine/March99/atrenss_soe2.html]flight propulsion concepts[/link]

[link=http://www.virtuallystrange.net/ufo/updates/2000/apr/m12-014.shtml]laser/microwave propulsion[/link]



Dr. Myrabo's experimental and theoretical studies are focused on innovative aeronautical, aerospace, and space flight propulsion concepts for the 21st Century and beyond. This advanced energetics research takes a long term, high-risk approach to identifying areas of potential technological breakthroughs. The primary research emphasis is on the application of beamed energy (e.g., laser, microwave, millimeter wave sources) & field propulsion engines to future airbreathing/ rocket shuttlecraft - developed for a variety of hypersonic, launch, and orbit-raising missions. These revolutionary beam-powered vehicles leave their propulsive energy source on the ground or in space, and carry minimal on-board propellant or expendable coolant. Among other promising engine concepts (i.e., compatible with beamed electromagnetic power), he has investigated pulsed detonation engines, magnetohydrodynamic slipstream accelerators, directed-energy airspikes (DEAS), various rocket-based combined cycles, rotary pulsejets, scramjets, and a unique airbreathing "Ion-Breeze" thruster.

Get Real

to anyone interested.. heres the byp yak. price and estmated release. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=EFL2325

tf2psycho

thanks for the new yak link i have been looking to get this for some time now april isnt that far away lets hope horizon doesnt push the date back like they did with the ultimatefx 3d

visioneer_one

My Feedback: (506)

After seeing one of these Yaks flying at an IMAC contest me and one of my flying mates have decided to pick up a pair.

Motor choices, motor choices.

He has a Himax 2816-890 and CC 35 off of a frequently-crashed, flies like <____>, soon-to-be-gutted profile balsa bipe. Running 3 cell 2000 mah packs, turning a 10x4.7 prop.

I have a couple of motors on hand to chose from. Eflight Park 370 1360 outrunner... Hacker A20-20L... Hacker A20-22L... I'm thinking that the Hacker A20-22 will be the way to go in my case.

Batteries? Got a bunch of 2000 mAh packs... too heavy. I figure that I'll pick up a couple of 1300-1500 mAh 10C packs, as we don't fly indoors.

Suggestions? What do you guys think?

jaybenson5

My Feedback: (4)

I picked up this Yak today. after flying the e flight ultimate for over a year it was time to replace it. My question is will the HiMax 2808-0980 from my ultimate make good 3 D on the Yak?

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

Jay,

It will fly the Yak alright, not ballistic unless you overload a bit. HiMax 2808-0980 rated 12 amp MAX for 15 seconds. That's about 130 watts, so it's enough. To really get this bird to play hard, you need more like 165 watts if you end up in the 15 oz AUW range. You can over-prop a bit and get there, but throttle management will be vital to avoid overheating.

spec36

is the byp yak the same one that is in the video of angelo lomeli on vpp tread? and how much does it weight ? the yak54f is my most flew plane i have about 155 hours in the last few months and about six of the yak54f .. now they last a lot longer. (my radio keeps time most do now ) have went from lucky to bring it back to rocking all on this foamie and able to do it with my glow stuff now .. is there a way to do vpp on the yak54f or is it to heavy mine is 14.4 oz thanks for any help on the two? ps now i will go back to page one to read what i missed out on probably find the answer to my questions ..

jaybenson5

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks TMan for the reply. I will go ahead and install the himax and see how it goes.

tf2psycho

My other toy also made by Russia ...... check out my SKS...look out OSAMA.....whooah!

spec36

i saw a video of the yak54f with a vpp on it can anyone give me any info on this setup . i have asked on other treads with no luck thanks for any help.. and i read alot about the yak54f breaking the fuse. I use tape before i put the wing in it makes it strong i have nosed it in pick it up and go again love this foamie also hope to get the new byp yak when will it be in stock ?