Snowfly,

I am going with the AXI 2808/24, 3S TP 2100 mAH Prolite, Pheonix 35 set up.

I started building my Extra over the weekend. Unfortunately, due to 'honey dos', I didn't get a lot done. I have to add my voice to the many though... this little plane is absolutely beautiful. The workmanship is top notch, and I love the covering scheme. I can't get to get it flying.

I am blatantly copying T-Man's motor mounting scheme. I have no shame. I'm going with what sounds like the 'authority' setup... an AXI 2808/24, 3S TP 2100mAh Prolites, and a Phoenix 35.

I also want my wings to be removeable so I'm thinking about fabricating a way to attach/remove them.

I should have it finished by this weekend. The only problem is that the D47 servos I want to use are hard to obtain. I'm hoping Dymond will get some in this week. I guess I can always go back to the tried and true HS-55s.

check out the vidoe from the prior post of mine. The weather here sucks so i couldn't get any video this weekend of all hovering, but for reference, I'm at about 3/8 stick for hover with plenty of pull out power with this setup:

AXI 2212-20
APC 11x5.5E prop
Cool Running 25Amp controller
TP 1320 prolite 3 cell

AUW 24 ounces

Now, I just finished by 3D rogue and I've gone with a Hacker A30-16M, X-30 controller, TP2100 Prolite 3 cell, APC 11x5.5E prop and the AUW is 29 ounces and it should be a little rocket. i have this same setup in a Fliton Prodigy as well.

I hope this helps...

Greg

If you're gonna buy new HS-55's, then try the Dymond D60 servos. Same price, same weight, WAY more torque and faster too. These are badass all the way! Used them in my sons E-Flight Yak54... what a difference! Control authority was twice as good. I never suspected the HS-55 servo was not enough for these little 30-40 inch birds, but WOW, a better servo makes a HUGE difference.

Sitting in a hotel in China... wishing I was home playing with airplanes . Bedtime, 1:00 am here...

I just picked up 11 D47 servos. What can I say... Dymond tempted me with a buy 10 get 1 free deal so...

Now, I just need to find the free time to build it.

Great vid Greg, btw, I have flown at EBRC a few times and Ive been a member of the Tracy Skyliners for nearly 20 years now. I wont mention his name but our vice pres is well known in EBRC. If youve been around for a while I might recognize you. Im still waiting for the weather to warm up in Chicago, but its taking way too long. I have all my planes in Chicago for the moment but I will more than likely get something for here in CA as well, maybe my Fliton mini for now... Last year I bought a trailer over in Tracy and moved everything to the midwest. My new job allows me to come to CA alot more often then the previous job so ive kept my membership with the Skyliners current. Maybe ill see ya out at EBRC or the Skyliners. Have a good one.

Bobby

Hi Bobby...hey give me a heads up when your out here. I've only been a member at EBRC for about 6 months and I mostly fly my 42% Dalton Aviation Extra 260 there, but also bring the electrics along to round out a day of flying. I'm usually out on Sunday afternoons....hope to see you.

Greg

I second your choice of models
I Also fly a 42% Extra 260 pics in my gallery below (Got it from TBM before Tony Russo got the rights to it).
I just hope I enjoy this Fliton as much as the rest of my planes.

I just received my Extra: very nice little plane.
I will probably have a lot of questions along the way, as I am totally new to electric.

First question: How much cooling is needed in the engine/cowl space? The instructions mention opening the cooling intake holes: does it mean I need to enlarge the two already open intake holes in the front of the cowl ???
I plan to make cooling holes on the botoom of the cowl, and will probably will stick with the proportions I use in my gas or nitro planes: cooling exit hole size= 2.5 x cooling intake size.

Thank you for info.

YOu don't need to enlarge the two side intakes. I opend up the bottom intake to provide airflow over the ESC and battery. And the exit holes can be cut out of the ocvering in the back bottom of the fuseulage. Keep in mind that the back opening were the elevator extends thru is also an air exit duct so you don't need much more. I actually just cut out the cover on both sides of the fuselage for both rear servo mounts and I've had no issues. Happy building

Greg

Thanks

Received the plane yesterday, and bought the rest of the stuff at LHS today.
First lipo power is expensive ! [X(]
I must admit, it was quite a surprise.

Anyway, our island sunny weather is all but sunny, so I plan to spend the week end building. I should have it done for next week.

I received the Extra last week and started building and faced some problems with it that needs some attention.

I noticed that the motorcage (build up from the separate wood parts) is situated too low, when inserted inside the rectangular slots. Then , the hole in the motorplate is not exactly on the same height as the middle of the motorcowling.
I inserted the motorcage in the slots but did not shifted it down. I gluid it in place with 5-minute epoxy and some small , thin squared plywood.

Furthermore, I bought 4 small and light servo's Graupner C1081 which only weigh about 6.5gram (0.22ounce). Unfortunately, this servo is about 5mm (0.2inch) higher then eg. a Hitec HS-55. Now I got a problem when using it for the rudder. The difference in height (moving the hinge of the servo further outside of the airplane) caused that the rod (connected to the rudder) limited the downwards movement of the elevator rudder. So I replaced that servo with a GWS with less height. Now the space between the rod and the rudder is still , but might be enough. Flying with it will tell it.

Also, I did not put the enclosed aluminum rudder hinges with the steel rods on it , since it is well known that a metal-to-metal contact (vibrations) can cause high frequent glitches that can disturb the radio frequency's.
Instead I mounted the hinges of a Shockflyer and epoxy'd them in place (first removed the foil !) I made some very small holes in the surface that is glued on the balsa to make sure of a 100% guaranteed connection that will not get loose .....
There's no play on the rudders and while the rods are from 1.5mm (0.06inch) carbon, instead of steel there's also a weight advantage ! I hope it is strong enough during high speed maneuvres.

Last but not least I found that the covering of my Extra was very bad, for sure at the side of the fuselage where it's bubbled and since I don't have a covering Iron (I know I'm an ARF typ'o guy ...) ........
Maybe the coverring issue is caused during the overseas shipping (I'm from the netherlands)

Did anyone faced the same problems ?

I bought the Hacker A30-28S and X-30 controller for it, including 3 APC E props (10x5 / 10x7 / 11.5.5). Got it straight from the factory in Germany, it was relatively cheap ; combo price including shipping and 11% discount : 144Euro (=170U$) and 2 years guarantee. Could not find it cheaper anywhere. Besides taht Hacker did a really good job; the motor included two prop adapters, backmounting aluminum plate, solderred connectors on both the motor and esc and all the hardware in the box !
Anyway, I hope this set-up will give enough power.

A still have to glue-in the wings which will be a tough job I guess so the story continues ....

Anybody else had some problems with braking wingspars ???

Hi all,

Seen u guys mention Axi motors for the Extra.
I have an Axi 2208/26 (twenty six) and a Jeti Advance12+ ESC lying around.
Do u think these would deliver a hardcore 3D performance with this machine?
If yes, which battery config would be best?

Thx for any opinion.

Michel-Henri

The AXI 2208 is not hot enough to make the Extra strong. It will fly, but will not pull out of a hover very well at all. That motor is best on a sub-15 oz plane. This bird will go 20-21 oz's. AXI 2212/20 is barely enough to make it fly well (I fly it on my Fliton Edge 540). If you want ballistic performance, 2808/24 is the ticket in the AXI lineup.

I ended up fitting the Mini Extra with an AXI 2808-24. I flew it yesterday, and it is a great little airplane, flying very straight, and capable of very stable harrier (more stable than the Funtana 90, with no wing rock!).

Unfortunately I crashed on the second flight: the only way to land it at our thick grass field is to harrier it down, and it tip-stalled from less than 2 feet up. These are very lightly built, and the left wing ripped out, destroying the whole center section of the fuse. I liked the plane enough to build another one, but I will not install the landing gear; I will just “belly glide� it on the grass. This option should allow me to fly after work at any of the neighborhood park of school.

islandflyer,
I feel sorry for you !

Do you know what your flying weight was ?
Mine is now 720gram (25.3ounce) and I think it's quite heavy.

thanks

Oooof... sorry to hear about your Extra islandflyer. Losing it on the 2nd flight definitely sucks.

I'm probably going to maiden mine next weekend. It was raining a bit too much this past weekend so I chose to wait another week.

I finally got to fly mine yesterday when the winds were below 10mph and it's alot of fun. I think it's still a bit nose heavy with the 2100 pack in it, I may get a lighte pack and see how it goes. I like it better than my Mini Funtana, the landing gear is definitely more durable.

Sorry for your loss Islandflyer, that sucks!

You might still struggle landing. This bird still needs to fly in under power. Grass landing it that way will be tricky, you'll need to dive in, cut throttle and slide into home plate with some speed, otherwise stall and bounce again. Folding prop won't work well around this big cowl, so you are going to have some difficulty with prop hitting on landings. Good luck... maybe try some snow ski's?

In the first flight, I did 2 landings on a school basketball court, and that was easy. This court is adjascent to the baseball field. But the school teams showed up, so I went to our RC field where I had the second flight.
The plane did a great elevator from about 30 feet down to a couple feet; I maintained that altitude in a forward harrier on about 40 feet, and was going to let it land when the left wing dipped and touched the ground.
I think that landing it smoothly as I did on the Basketball Court, with no landingear on the grass should be OK.
Knife Edge Landing not recommended !!!

is it necessary to use the TP 2100 prolite pack in this plane if I want to use a 2100? I have one of the 2100 packs thats not a prolite pack. will this be to heavy?

what e-flight outrunner and speed control would you recommend for this plane?

hi i am from greece and im thinking of buying that plane.the problem is that i want to make it with engine (i have a tt gp07 engine)and i want to ask if anyone has done this conversion and if it is easy to do it.thanks

I posted a build thread for the Fliton Extra here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=499534

Enjoy. It is a great small plane!

Hi all,

I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of my mini extra. From all that I have heard,I cant wait to get this bird in the air! Do you guys think that my Himax 2816 will have sufficient 3D power for this plane? Also, what size battery would complement this motor on a 20 oz plane?

I had the mini Funtana with the himax 2816 and it had all of the vertical you wanted in a 25 oz plane. I used a 11x4.7 apc prop and guessed that my flights were about 10-15 minutes with a Great Planes 3 cell 1500 mah pack. You could use a thunder power 2100 for a little longer flight time.

I have been considering the 2816 for my new Extra, but am also considering the hacker a20-20l and staying on the lighter side.