How to electrify a 10 pound 3D plane???
#1
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From: Medicine Hat, AB, CANADA
Hello everybody, I'd like to electrify my Maxair Velox II plane if possible. (Here's a link http://www.maxairrc.com/ ) Right now it has a YS 110 on it. I do fly pretty hard 3D so I need good power.
Being new to the electric scene I was hoping for some guidance. A good motor and motor mount, I have AXI and Hacker available at my lhs, I will mail order if needed, batteries, ESC, and BEC I'm clueless with. And any other tools and components that are needed like a wattmeter and so on.
If you can help me out it will be appreciated.
Thanks
Shawn
Being new to the electric scene I was hoping for some guidance. A good motor and motor mount, I have AXI and Hacker available at my lhs, I will mail order if needed, batteries, ESC, and BEC I'm clueless with. And any other tools and components that are needed like a wattmeter and so on.
If you can help me out it will be appreciated.
Thanks
Shawn
#2
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Shawn - you need the following:
ESC - High Voltage type, capable of handling up to 10S-12S, rated for about 90A or more. You can go with a CC 85HV if you like for example or try something at United Hobbies, its an OEM ESC but cheaper.
Motor - if you want AXI then the 5330 would be more versatile, you can use it later on a slightly larger plane, if not then the 5320. The Hacker A60 is a big motor too.
Batt - you might want to look at either 8, 9 or 10 cell set up. I like 10S so I can split it into 5+5 for good performance on a 40 sized plane too. Battery should be good for 90-100As. So maybe something like a 4,500 mAh 25C battery would be good.
BEC - my personal opinion is that its no use to get a BEC, a RX pack is fine, how heavy does that get?
Wattmeter - yes that is a must ... some swear by MotorCal but I will not, I rather get actual info from the net, many forumers have given their set up on the net and you can PM them for info. I find that literally everyone is VERY helpful and not stingy with info. RC Groups is very hot on EP, you are there so ask around. Ed Lyerly is a very good guy to contact. Most helpul.
Stand off mounts - I make my own, actually get them made, I use aluminium rods like the gasser stand off mounts. Get the correct ID and OD and make them in different lengths.
External arming switch - safe way to go as you do not want to plug in the batts and then have the propellor somehow decide to spool up, chances are it will not happen but then, no harm in getting a switch sorted out. It can be bought from MaxxProd of you make your own, just a simple 4 mm connector on the system between batt and ESC.
Series Y - so you can run 2 packs of 4S or 5S for a 8S or 10S set up.
Have fun ok! I will be getting a big one up soon too ...
ESC - High Voltage type, capable of handling up to 10S-12S, rated for about 90A or more. You can go with a CC 85HV if you like for example or try something at United Hobbies, its an OEM ESC but cheaper.
Motor - if you want AXI then the 5330 would be more versatile, you can use it later on a slightly larger plane, if not then the 5320. The Hacker A60 is a big motor too.
Batt - you might want to look at either 8, 9 or 10 cell set up. I like 10S so I can split it into 5+5 for good performance on a 40 sized plane too. Battery should be good for 90-100As. So maybe something like a 4,500 mAh 25C battery would be good.
BEC - my personal opinion is that its no use to get a BEC, a RX pack is fine, how heavy does that get?
Wattmeter - yes that is a must ... some swear by MotorCal but I will not, I rather get actual info from the net, many forumers have given their set up on the net and you can PM them for info. I find that literally everyone is VERY helpful and not stingy with info. RC Groups is very hot on EP, you are there so ask around. Ed Lyerly is a very good guy to contact. Most helpul.
Stand off mounts - I make my own, actually get them made, I use aluminium rods like the gasser stand off mounts. Get the correct ID and OD and make them in different lengths.
External arming switch - safe way to go as you do not want to plug in the batts and then have the propellor somehow decide to spool up, chances are it will not happen but then, no harm in getting a switch sorted out. It can be bought from MaxxProd of you make your own, just a simple 4 mm connector on the system between batt and ESC.
Series Y - so you can run 2 packs of 4S or 5S for a 8S or 10S set up.
Have fun ok! I will be getting a big one up soon too ...
#3
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From: Naersnes, NORWAY
You should put at least 1700-1800 Watt in to the motor. The 5320/34 might be used, but also might be slightly too small for your claims. Then 5330/24 might suit perfect, on 10S LiPo. Just like tIANci said. I think 8S will give too much amperes, and low amperes is always good.
But if you choose an AXI my advice is NOT to use a Castle ESC! The Jeti regulators always work on AXI, but Castle don`t always do a good job on AXI... In fact a 77A ESC is enough, but the Jeti 90 Adv have really nice mounting lugs.
I do as tIANci mentioned: use two 4S LiPoes in serie for some setups, and the same 4S batteries work well in my smaller Yak and 3,2 meter motorglider
And 2 of 5S5000 in serie for F3A, but single 5S for 50-size scaleships. Then you get a lot of flighttime out of the batteries instead of letting them die of aging.
I also second not to use a UBEC. This is because people have experienced the electrolyte condensators have popped on the UBECs when working on these high voltages! Separate RX-battery is safer.
But if you choose an AXI my advice is NOT to use a Castle ESC! The Jeti regulators always work on AXI, but Castle don`t always do a good job on AXI... In fact a 77A ESC is enough, but the Jeti 90 Adv have really nice mounting lugs.
I do as tIANci mentioned: use two 4S LiPoes in serie for some setups, and the same 4S batteries work well in my smaller Yak and 3,2 meter motorglider
And 2 of 5S5000 in serie for F3A, but single 5S for 50-size scaleships. Then you get a lot of flighttime out of the batteries instead of letting them die of aging.I also second not to use a UBEC. This is because people have experienced the electrolyte condensators have popped on the UBECs when working on these high voltages! Separate RX-battery is safer.



