U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
08-06-2003 | 06:09 PM
#27
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U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
Originally posted by LS171Malibu
Yeah....whatever....that movie has distorted the minds of teens everywhere. I know of a boy whom was offered an '01 Corvette by his father...he tells his dad what he would really like is one of those fast Civic V-tecs....
Yeah....whatever....that movie has distorted the minds of teens everywhere. I know of a boy whom was offered an '01 Corvette by his father...he tells his dad what he would really like is one of those fast Civic V-tecs....
:drowning: :disappoin :boxing: Id take a free vet, but would never buy one. My blood is blue.
Anyhow, lets not get on real cars, and lets talk about that big moki on a small plane!
08-06-2003 | 11:29 PM
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From: Toledo,
OH
U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
Tavis, I know these guys a foolin with ya, but don't let it get ya down. Hear's a little secret: the OS BGX is a far better choice. Got one that runs real sweet, and might even swap ya for that 1.8 if you throw a few bucks in 
08-07-2003 | 11:14 AM
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From: Menasha, WI
U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
I think the Moki 2.1 will beat a BGX, but I would say the 180 is a fair match.
As for actual use, see which is lighter.
As for actual use, see which is lighter.
08-07-2003 | 01:44 PM
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From: Bloomington, IL
U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
1.8 on a UCD .90? That is an incredibly innovative idea. I once put an ultralight engine with 48 x 15 prop on a Great Planes Gee Bee. The SOB was EXTREMELY fast, but difficult to taxi, takeoff and land. Makes you an honest pilot for sure!
Good luck with your "U-Can-Destroy" 3D.
Good luck with your "U-Can-Destroy" 3D.
08-08-2003 | 09:33 PM
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From: Berryville, VA
U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
Originally posted by RSands
Tavis, I know these guys a foolin with ya, but don't let it get ya down. Hear's a little secret: the OS BGX is a far better choice. Got one that runs real sweet, and might even swap ya for that 1.8 if you throw a few bucks in
Tavis, I know these guys a foolin with ya, but don't let it get ya down. Hear's a little secret: the OS BGX is a far better choice. Got one that runs real sweet, and might even swap ya for that 1.8 if you throw a few bucks in
08-08-2003 | 09:55 PM
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From: Evansville ,
IN
U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
Put the moki on it, and fly it. Your right you have lots of wing area, so the weight should come out ok. Prolly will need longer gear. Go with Carbon fiber, to help save nose weight. Mount the battery in the tail, and forget the cowl.
Then go out and make us that video of you sticking your fingers in the prop. I want to see it.
Then go out and make us that video of you sticking your fingers in the prop. I want to see it.
08-09-2003 | 11:31 AM
#43
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From: Berryville, VA
U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
Originally posted by capthis
Put the moki on it, and fly it. Your right you have lots of wing area, so the weight should come out ok. Prolly will need longer gear. Go with Carbon fiber, to help save nose weight. Mount the battery in the tail, and forget the cowl.
Then go out and make us that video of you sticking your fingers in the prop. I want to see it.
Put the moki on it, and fly it. Your right you have lots of wing area, so the weight should come out ok. Prolly will need longer gear. Go with Carbon fiber, to help save nose weight. Mount the battery in the tail, and forget the cowl.
Then go out and make us that video of you sticking your fingers in the prop. I want to see it.
08-10-2003 | 07:26 AM
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From: Houston, TX
U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
I had to use a ZDZ 210 just to get it hovering .... it didn't have enough vertical and unfortunately I couldn't find anything bigger
Dude, without joking I think it would be absurd ... that would be in the ratio scale of putting a Saito 100 to a PenKnife 30 !!! ...
I fly at 9000 ft MSL and I'm using a Webra 120 (17X6 APC) in mine and even at my altitude that's tooooo much power. I have measured the static thrust (witha fish scale) and I'm a little over 2::1 power to weight ratio.
I think a Webra 120 with the right prop will hive you the same power to weight ratio as TOC aircraft.
Also, unless you have TOC thumbs, you WILL NOT be able to hover with that plane .... it will start tork-rolling so fast you will hardly even distinguish the front & rear while spinning.
Go for a 120 that swings a 17X6 @ 9000 rpms and I'm sure you'll thank me later.
Dude, without joking I think it would be absurd ... that would be in the ratio scale of putting a Saito 100 to a PenKnife 30 !!! ...
I fly at 9000 ft MSL and I'm using a Webra 120 (17X6 APC) in mine and even at my altitude that's tooooo much power. I have measured the static thrust (witha fish scale) and I'm a little over 2::1 power to weight ratio.
I think a Webra 120 with the right prop will hive you the same power to weight ratio as TOC aircraft.
Also, unless you have TOC thumbs, you WILL NOT be able to hover with that plane .... it will start tork-rolling so fast you will hardly even distinguish the front & rear while spinning.
Go for a 120 that swings a 17X6 @ 9000 rpms and I'm sure you'll thank me later.
08-10-2003 | 04:42 PM
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From: Berryville, VA
torqe it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks but im lookin' for a 3 to 1 power ratio.I want to try some thing that no one has ever tried yet.I think if I can get the UCD to torqe roll fast enough I the rotational enersha will keep the plane in a tr with verry little to no controle imput.Imagin doing a t.r. so fast its a blurr and bring it doun in a tail slide to about 1 foot off the ground.all u would need to do is work the throtle 
08-11-2003 | 05:00 PM
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From: Houston, TX
U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
Travis, the #1 rule for screw-ups in people using bigger engines in their planes for 3D is they never remember a factor called weight. I'm willing to bet my UCD vs yours that mine will fly MUCH better than yours simply because the all up weight in mine is only 7.11 lbs.
Again, *I* have a little over 2:1 power to weight ratio, but that's because I don't fly at sea level. If you're closer to sea level and if you put in a little work in to it, you can easily achieve 3:1 with a 120.
The trick is you MUST reduce as much weight as possible !!!
What I did to my UCD was the following:
-uncovered
-drilled tons of holes to the fuselage
-drilled tons of holes to the wing
-removed about 80% of each cap-strip in the wing
-drilled tons of holes in the landing-gear (should have gone carbon)
-recovered plane without any overlapping monokote / econokote
-removed cowling
-changed firewall to a much lighter one
-used 4 HS-77 (wings and elevator) servos which are lighter, stronger and more powerful servos than standard servos
-used HS-55 for throttle
-used a Micron 6ch receiver (extremely light)
-used 1 Futaba 9402 for Rudder ... should have gone with something lighter but this is what I had around.
-used a NiMH 1200 mah battery
-used contest-grade balsa to make a new "bottom wing lid" or the part that makes up for the fuselage bottom in the wing
Keep in mind APC props are _VERY_ heavy .... try and get the prop of your choice in wood.
To reduce much more weight, I could have redone the vertical tail, rudder, horizontal tail and elevator using contest-grade balsa and carbon fiber but I figured I was already with in my target weight.
One thing you're obviously failing to understand is that with a 180, you will either need to move the complete firewall back about 2" (maybe even more) or add tons of tail weight to get a nice 5.5" CG ...
My only word of advice is unless you do things right, your plane will NEVER out-fly mine ... If you can get the all up weight down to no more than 7.4 lbs _WITH_ the 180, you'll have yourself an excellent plane with a 4.5:1 power to weight ratio.
Your 3+:1 can _EASILY_ be done with a 120 and a little work and you might even be able to push that up to 5:1 with a 180. On the other hand, its also very easy to put in a Moki 180 and have a power-to-weight ratio of only 1.5:1 (because of the lead you'll need in the back of the fuse)
I hope all of this helps you somewhat and you make things right!
Please keep us informed on how things go.
Again, *I* have a little over 2:1 power to weight ratio, but that's because I don't fly at sea level. If you're closer to sea level and if you put in a little work in to it, you can easily achieve 3:1 with a 120.
The trick is you MUST reduce as much weight as possible !!!
What I did to my UCD was the following:
-uncovered
-drilled tons of holes to the fuselage
-drilled tons of holes to the wing
-removed about 80% of each cap-strip in the wing
-drilled tons of holes in the landing-gear (should have gone carbon)
-recovered plane without any overlapping monokote / econokote
-removed cowling
-changed firewall to a much lighter one
-used 4 HS-77 (wings and elevator) servos which are lighter, stronger and more powerful servos than standard servos
-used HS-55 for throttle
-used a Micron 6ch receiver (extremely light)
-used 1 Futaba 9402 for Rudder ... should have gone with something lighter but this is what I had around.
-used a NiMH 1200 mah battery
-used contest-grade balsa to make a new "bottom wing lid" or the part that makes up for the fuselage bottom in the wing
Keep in mind APC props are _VERY_ heavy .... try and get the prop of your choice in wood.
To reduce much more weight, I could have redone the vertical tail, rudder, horizontal tail and elevator using contest-grade balsa and carbon fiber but I figured I was already with in my target weight.
One thing you're obviously failing to understand is that with a 180, you will either need to move the complete firewall back about 2" (maybe even more) or add tons of tail weight to get a nice 5.5" CG ...
My only word of advice is unless you do things right, your plane will NEVER out-fly mine ... If you can get the all up weight down to no more than 7.4 lbs _WITH_ the 180, you'll have yourself an excellent plane with a 4.5:1 power to weight ratio.
Your 3+:1 can _EASILY_ be done with a 120 and a little work and you might even be able to push that up to 5:1 with a 180. On the other hand, its also very easy to put in a Moki 180 and have a power-to-weight ratio of only 1.5:1 (because of the lead you'll need in the back of the fuse)
I hope all of this helps you somewhat and you make things right!
Please keep us informed on how things go.
08-11-2003 | 05:07 PM
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From: london, UNITED KINGDOM
U CAN DO with a Moki 1.8 and tined pipe!!!....?
Noname,
it is a real credit to you to take this tavis newman seriously and construct a detailed and completely right reply.
I may be wrong, but i think Tavis may just be joking again about this MOKI 180 thing.
Judging from all his other posts where he has been looking for an argument, he is lucky to still have people take time to answer his questions.
no offence meant, but have you heard of a spell check Tavis?
It would make it a lot easier for us to read your posts. :tired:
it is a real credit to you to take this tavis newman seriously and construct a detailed and completely right reply.
I may be wrong, but i think Tavis may just be joking again about this MOKI 180 thing.
Judging from all his other posts where he has been looking for an argument, he is lucky to still have people take time to answer his questions.
no offence meant, but have you heard of a spell check Tavis?
It would make it a lot easier for us to read your posts. :tired:
