Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
Max,
Get these (60-90 size).....
http://outlawhobbyproducts.com/tethe...r-90-size.html
I modified mine, as they tended to flex outward a wee bit much.
Get these (60-90 size).....
http://outlawhobbyproducts.com/tethe...r-90-size.html
I modified mine, as they tended to flex outward a wee bit much.
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
A1PC,
I saw those on your plane a few post back and was going to ask which size you have. How much taller is that gear over the stock gear?
Thanks for the link and I like your mod on the gear, good idea.
I saw those on your plane a few post back and was going to ask which size you have. How much taller is that gear over the stock gear?
Thanks for the link and I like your mod on the gear, good idea.
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
Hey Maxx...
Yep, it's a lot of fun for sure... glad yours is the same.
There isn't a lot of meat up the front for moving the engine forward but it could be done I guess. Mines a little nose heavy even after moving both the tank and the canister muffler back to right on the C of G.
I have 19g of lead in the tail which is minimal.
I considered the Tetherite gear as per A1's post but I don't have any issues with the stock gear running a 16x8. Others suggest going to a 17x6 for peak engine performance but I haven't tried that yet. My prop is a little green around the edges but I don't care... landing 3 points or tail first! is lots of fun and easily done with this plane.
Cheers!
Goose
Yep, it's a lot of fun for sure... glad yours is the same.
There isn't a lot of meat up the front for moving the engine forward but it could be done I guess. Mines a little nose heavy even after moving both the tank and the canister muffler back to right on the C of G.
I have 19g of lead in the tail which is minimal.
I considered the Tetherite gear as per A1's post but I don't have any issues with the stock gear running a 16x8. Others suggest going to a 17x6 for peak engine performance but I haven't tried that yet. My prop is a little green around the edges but I don't care... landing 3 points or tail first! is lots of fun and easily done with this plane.
Cheers!
Goose
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
ORIGINAL: MaxxGS
A1PC,
I saw those on your plane a few post back and was going to ask which size you have. How much taller is that gear over the stock gear?
Thanks for the link and I like your mod on the gear, good idea.
A1PC,
I saw those on your plane a few post back and was going to ask which size you have. How much taller is that gear over the stock gear?
Thanks for the link and I like your mod on the gear, good idea.
Regarding the mounting of the DLE20cc gasser;
I did mine about 2 months BEFORE AW ever came out with their installation kit, which is a bit odd if ya think about the timing of such.
AW had prototypes of both their PROX260 & the DLE20 waaay before I did the first combo installation. I had nothing to go by, except good old common sense. Look at my attached photos and you'll see mine is mounted way farther forward than what the AW kit puts it......about 1.125" farther forward!
Also, regarding prop clearance;
AW has stated that they designed their PROX260 for extreme 3D, therefore an intentional heavy aft CG in stock form (since revised).
Also, others have stated they believed AW designed the larger PROX260 for an AX.75, so a 14"-15" prop was expected, NOT the 17" x 6 that the DLE20 loves.
Right now I'm at 7 lbs 2 oz with NO extra ballast, and loads of prop-to-ground clearance!!!
Other details about these are noted in the original AW Support section msg thread (noted here on page 3/Post #63)
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
A1, goose, maxx:
Is anyone having any issues with rigt thrust? If so what did you have todo to solve the issue?
I noticed on goose's it looked like he kept the line (the step inward for the glow motor). On A1pc I cant really tell, but to me it looks like he didn't keep the step inward going, if this is so can you post it? Also if this is true, did it keep you from having to add any right thrust?
I still have not had a chance to start mine and I just want to get it right the first time by following the way that you guys have paved the path for.
(I've been too involved getting a GP 27% cap 232 with a dle 55 ready). I picked it up from a friend and it needed a little tweeking.
As a side note, have you guys given any thought as to what type/kind of skis would be good for the ProX? You know, when that white stuff starts falling from the sky again.
Is anyone having any issues with rigt thrust? If so what did you have todo to solve the issue?
I noticed on goose's it looked like he kept the line (the step inward for the glow motor). On A1pc I cant really tell, but to me it looks like he didn't keep the step inward going, if this is so can you post it? Also if this is true, did it keep you from having to add any right thrust?
I still have not had a chance to start mine and I just want to get it right the first time by following the way that you guys have paved the path for.
(I've been too involved getting a GP 27% cap 232 with a dle 55 ready). I picked it up from a friend and it needed a little tweeking.
As a side note, have you guys given any thought as to what type/kind of skis would be good for the ProX? You know, when that white stuff starts falling from the sky again.
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
Hey LB...
Yes, I Dremeled the slot out where needed to keep the engine centreline in the same place as the original design, but that is nothing to do with right thrust, it is centreline offset and really doesn't affect the tracking of the airframe.
Right thrust is achieved by packing the front engine bolts with one or two washers to 'point' the engine to the right (when viewed from above).
I have one washer under each front bolt and it tracks very straight.
To test if you have enough, on a calm day (or with wind in your face or at your back) pull up into a vertical climb with the top of the plane facing you and let go of the rudder stick. This is assuming you have trimmed the airframe and the flight controls for a hands off flying plane beforehand.
If the plane yaws to the right, you have too much. If it yaws left, you don't have enough.
Have fun!
Goose
Yes, I Dremeled the slot out where needed to keep the engine centreline in the same place as the original design, but that is nothing to do with right thrust, it is centreline offset and really doesn't affect the tracking of the airframe.
Right thrust is achieved by packing the front engine bolts with one or two washers to 'point' the engine to the right (when viewed from above).
I have one washer under each front bolt and it tracks very straight.
To test if you have enough, on a calm day (or with wind in your face or at your back) pull up into a vertical climb with the top of the plane facing you and let go of the rudder stick. This is assuming you have trimmed the airframe and the flight controls for a hands off flying plane beforehand.
If the plane yaws to the right, you have too much. If it yaws left, you don't have enough.
Have fun!
Goose
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
LB,
I haven't (yet) put any right thrust into mine, but I should.
In a hover, if I punch it it'll pull to the left, but shows no such thing in normal flight.
This is better than using washers;
Tetherite offset plates for profile planes.
http://www.ohiomodelplanes.com/tetherite/
(bottom of page)
Cut 4 pieces, two go the correct direction under the eng against the mounting rails,
the other two go the other direction on other side of fuse. Reason being, that way
the bolts & nuts are flat/square to one another.
As for ski's, I got some for my disposable glow, but can't at the moment remember where I got them;
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10295688
I haven't (yet) put any right thrust into mine, but I should.
In a hover, if I punch it it'll pull to the left, but shows no such thing in normal flight.
This is better than using washers;
Tetherite offset plates for profile planes.
http://www.ohiomodelplanes.com/tetherite/
(bottom of page)
Cut 4 pieces, two go the correct direction under the eng against the mounting rails,
the other two go the other direction on other side of fuse. Reason being, that way
the bolts & nuts are flat/square to one another.
As for ski's, I got some for my disposable glow, but can't at the moment remember where I got them;
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10295688
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
Your right A1, they are the same height as I have a set sitting here.
Hey, maybe I should put them back on to lose some tail weight!
Thanks
Goose
Hey, maybe I should put them back on to lose some tail weight!
Thanks
Goose
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
For convenience I bought the Aero-Works kit to install the DLE-20. Simply cut, dremel and drill to the size of the templates. I then added one washer under each front bolt and it tracks very straight. I have no complaints about right thrust or tracking.
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
I'm still in my research before buy mode.Am i right to assume that propping sizes would be more for thrust than speed for this type of model/flying style. i am destined to get a 46-60 model and will power it with my AX65.
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
Exactly right!
AW designed these two for extreme 3D, low, slow, and daring!
I got the slow & daring in hand......still working on the low part.
Speed is possible, but NOT desirable.
Gotta watch out for aileron flutter.
If your eng can handle it, this APC would be good;
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGAE5&P=7
AW designed these two for extreme 3D, low, slow, and daring!
I got the slow & daring in hand......still working on the low part.
Speed is possible, but NOT desirable.
Gotta watch out for aileron flutter.
If your eng can handle it, this APC would be good;
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGAE5&P=7
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
woohoo.
picked up my 46-60 yesterday (sunday).Got the last red/yellow one. seems to be the most popular. Once home opened it up and ogled at it for a while. everything was good.Got the iron and heat gun out and went over everything. Glued ailerons in and then got the dremmel and shaved the fuse to make the Ax65 fit. Will fuel proof once i get the engine mounting drilled.
picked up my 46-60 yesterday (sunday).Got the last red/yellow one. seems to be the most popular. Once home opened it up and ogled at it for a while. everything was good.Got the iron and heat gun out and went over everything. Glued ailerons in and then got the dremmel and shaved the fuse to make the Ax65 fit. Will fuel proof once i get the engine mounting drilled.
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
almost finished.Radio gear to sort, throttle linkage to add and balance and set up the throws and done.maybe add all the decals.
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
65AX huh? Man that should be fun. Let us know how the balance comes out. I'll be using a Saito 82 probably and it might be a hair lighter. Nice sharp photos. No decals? Have you tried some Pledge wax on one yet? Works slick.
Ernie
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
Brettis,
Good job!
But it do look a bit naked without the decals.
Where you putting the On/Off switch for your rcv?
One thing AW did on the larger .90 size (prototype), was to put the switch(es) into the access panel covers on the wings.
Not that they'd ever blow off, but doing so would limit that ever happening. I wish I'd done so.
Good job!
But it do look a bit naked without the decals.
Where you putting the On/Off switch for your rcv?
One thing AW did on the larger .90 size (prototype), was to put the switch(es) into the access panel covers on the wings.
Not that they'd ever blow off, but doing so would limit that ever happening. I wish I'd done so.
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RE: Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
Wow Brettis you work fast.
Mine is bare also as I have not put the decals on it. What do you guys use when putting the decals on? I usually use soapy water or Windex but maybe you guys can tell me to use something better.
Since I’m using Li-on batteries I used the MPI Miracle switches with regulators and I mounted my switches in the hatches on the wings just like Aero-Works. I didn’t have to use any extensions and it made for clean install with the wiring.
Mine is bare also as I have not put the decals on it. What do you guys use when putting the decals on? I usually use soapy water or Windex but maybe you guys can tell me to use something better.
Since I’m using Li-on batteries I used the MPI Miracle switches with regulators and I mounted my switches in the hatches on the wings just like Aero-Works. I didn’t have to use any extensions and it made for clean install with the wiring.