bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

I really like those tanks.
Makes it easy to service it at the end of the season.
I have something similar for my 35% planes.

What plane is the DLE 30 in?

CRFan1

That is my recently finished 71" slick. Has about 20 flights on it now Best plane I own hands down and so far, the engine has been perfect!

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Hope my engine is as friendly.
It's a mid 2010 engine that's not been run or flown.
What did you do for break in, prop and oil?

CRFan1

Broke it in with the prop I am running which is a 20x6 Xoar...Great prop for the slick and that was recommended by Ben from 3DHS.

As far as oil, at the recommendation of Jodi from Valley View RC, I have been running Stihl HP Ultra, which is a synthetic, from day one. 32:1.

Basicall ran a couple 8 ounce tanks through it on the ground to get it dialed in and went flying. She has never quit on me (knock on wood).

One tip for the first run. Fill the tank and bump the prop back and forth from compression to compression (if that makes sense) with ignition off. I call it rocking the prop. You will see it draw fuel from the tank to the carb. May have to do it about 30 times. After that, Choke it, WOT, ignition on and flip till it pops. Choke off, small amount of throttle and it should start in 3-5 flips.

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Thanks man.
I hope to have it ready by tomorrow, or the weekend.
Hoping for a good engine here.

I have a 20x6 Xoar.
So I'll just run it with synthetic from the get go and take it from there.

I'll keep you posted.

Take care
Bob

CRFan1

No problem! I am sure you will have no problems at all...if you have questions, just ask

You will love the plane and let me know what happens!

kerwin50

If you engine has been sitting that long and it does not draw fuel you may need to wet the diaphram. It's easy just loosen the screws on the diaphram cover. an blow a little fuel to wet wet the diaphram then she will pump fine.
DLE 30s are very friendly engines

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

That's good to know, but nothing on the rear carb is easy to get to, at least in my 70" Slick.
I don't know how I'm going to access the needles yet, as they are right up against the firewall, and buried pretty good []

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

I'm really good at losing stuff and want to get some extra 6 x 1mm wing bolts for the Slick.
Where are you guys getting those?

How about better prop bolts, who has those too?

I did buy one of the single bolt adapters for the 30, but don't want to take on the removal of the prop shaft just yet.
I read where it can be a pain in the butt!

Thanks
Bob

kerwin50

On my MX the carb sits in a hole in the firewall and the ls is behind the firewall while the HS is in front. I marked the areas and after removing the engine I notched the area so as I could use a long thin bladed screw driver to adjust my carb

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Just got back from the field with the 70" Slick and the DLE 30.
The plane is awsome and impressive for its size.
I primarily fly 35% planes, and this little guy hangs right in there.
I didn't get crazy since the motor is spank brand new, but I did some Knife Edge, Elevators, Harriers, Snaps, Spins and so on, and the plane didn't miss a beat.

The knife edge needed up elevator and opposite aileron, but no biggie.
Mixed it in and away we go.

The motor WILL NOT idle below 3250 though.
I thought I read somewhere that it may need some time on it before it will idle.
Hope that's all it is.
I did put hi temp silicone on the carb spacer gaskets cuz I read about possible air leaks on the motor.
Strangest thing I've ever seen [X(]

The throttle linkage is all the way towards idle too.

Oh well, it was a bunch of fun and I can't wait to get it out again and put more time on the motor.
We're campin at the field starting Thursday night, and I haven't told my buddies about the plane yet.
They will probably call me a wuss for flying something so small, but I had a ball with it and I don't care what they say!!

CRFan1

Great to hear and congrats on the maiden! As far as the motor, it should idle right off the bat. If it's not, It seems you "might" have to take the carb off and clean it. Also, becareful with the silicone.....the spacer has a small hole that feeds pressure to the diaprhagm pump for fuel delivery. You don't want that blocked. One other cause of the high idle (and a likely one) is that the throttle butterfly is off center, which allows too much air even at a closed throttle and thus the high idle. I would pull the carb and check it. How many turn out on your low speed are you? High speed? I am just curious. Post in the Gas engine forum under Giant Scale 3d...there is a DLE thread and Jodi is usually good about responding....that or call him at Valley View RC. That engine should idle perfect.

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

I'm at about 1.5 on the high end, and about 1.25 to 1.33 on the low end.

Where is the hole that shouldn't be covered, and would that cause the hi idle?
Wide open, midrange and transition are fine.


Thanks
Bob

CRFan1

Ok, you are in the range on the needles. I think I am 1.5 on HS and a hair past 1 turn on the LS. the hole is on the top and bottom of the reed spacer block but on the carb there is onle one hole going to the diapragm. The spacer gasket accommodates it. The spacer has two holes so it can accomodate you flipping the carb 180 (which I did) and still function. If your transition, midrange and WOT are all good than I would suspect the butterfly being out of alignment or some sort of air leak...but based on how its running and you needle settings I am thinking an air leak is not the issue. You 100 sure the throttle is able to travel to an idle position? If it is out of alignment, remove the carb and check...loosen the butterfly hold down screw and move it as needed. Put a bit of lock tite on it and tighten back down.....

Just suggestions of course Mine idles at 1600 easy but I think I set it at 1800 or so.

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

So on the black spacer there are two holes, one on the top, and one on the bottom?
I'll look at that when I get home later.
If one or both were covered, how would the motor act?

Taking the motor off of the plane would be a major pain right now, so I'm not sure how I feel about that?
The darn thing should work, you know what I mean?

CRFan1

The only hole that matters is the one in the spacer block that is lined up with the bleed hole on the gasket surface of the carb. If that were blocked, it would not pump fuel to the carb. Based on your situation it is fine. the motor runs. Yeah, It's a pain no doubt but it might be needed. Double check that your throttle linkage is ok and it is actually going down to idle.....

Other than that, could be the idle circuit is plugged up but I doubt it....

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

I got it.

I'll pull the motor and look at the butterfly.
The linkage is DEFINITELY going all the way to the idle stop.
Checked it more than twice.

I'll let you know what I find...

Thanks
Bob

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Maybe I'm missing something here, but there are no holes on the outside of the spacer block.
I thought you meant the outside since I may have covered them up with the silicone.
My black spacer block has no holes in the outside of it????

The idle problem was a DUH on my part.
Since I fly bigger gas engines, I never thought to look for an IDLE SCREW [X(][X(]

Should I throw a Walbro kit in it while the motor is out?

Thanks
Bob

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Turns out the high idle problem was caused by the idle screw.
I took the motor out, removed the screw, put in some new Walbro parts (combination of two kits) and it's running
like a champ.

I'll run it in some more and have some fun with the plane while I'm at it.

Thanks for the help.

Bob

CRFan1

LOLOL...that is hilarious because I was just re-reading the posts and that was going to be my next question...just dawned on me that you mentioned it was hitting the "idle stop" Glad thats all it was! definitely remove and toss that screw and let the servo do the work.

As an FYI, the holes I am talking about are on the gasket surfaces, not the outside of the block. If you ever take it apart, you will see what I mean. The DLE is a good little motor and I hope you have fun with the plane

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

I got you now.
I thought sealing the outside of the spacer may have blocked something.

The motor is mounted in such a way that it's hard to see the needles or that screw.
The needles are almost in line with the firewall and are hard to get to for sure.
You would think the carb would either be in the box behind the motor, or in the fuse.
This particular plane didn't work out that way.
It's a pain to pull the motor, but that's what is needed to work on the carb.
Oh well...
Hopefully putting new Walbro parts in the carb will hold it for awhile.

Anyway, took the plane out yesterday and put seven flights on it.
The plane is awsome, and the motor did not miss a beat.
Quite impressive for a spank brand new motor.

Idle is great, transition is good, and wide open is fine.
Can't beat it!

Just stopped home for a shower.
Back to the campsite.

Have a great holiday!
Bob

CRFan1

Fantastic! Enjoy the plane and have fun! Sounds like you are good to go

Ernie Misner

No one is suggesting any 20cc planes?

Thanks,

Ernie Misner

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Feel free!

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Speaking of "Freestyle" AeroWorks has this
the PROX260EXTRA FreeStyle;

46 and 60 Extra 260 Freestyle! VIDEO ADDED!!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10615155

Goose's Aeroworks ProX260 build thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._1/key_/tm.htm

The smaller 46 size is great for the glow flyers, but the bigger 90 size with a
DLE20cc gas eng is a perfect match! At 7 lbs AUW w/DLE20, and a 17 x 6
Vess (Sport) prop -or- Xoar, it has a 2:1 thrust to weight ratio.

Endless awesome fun!!!