Tip stall, snap roll, spin: they all cause rotation because one wing stalls. All you have to do is increase the angle of attack to the point of stalling. That can happen at ANY speed. Too much elevator can cause the plane to reach that critical angle easier, that's all.

You can do a basic test to see if the plane is "rigged" correctly (i.e. any difference in symmetry, wing warpage, etc.) by doing a straight ahead power off stall. Try and maintain level flight (no rolling) with RUDDER only. When the plane stalls, it should tend to fall off straight ahead. If not, it can help point out which wing may have a problem (might be an asymetrical horizontal stab, too). If you use aileron to maintain level flight (in the roll axis), you will aggravate any yaw tendicies because aileron's CAUSE yaw (it's called "adverse yaw").

As others have written - keep your speed up and watch your elevator input.

I know that everyone is talking about cg short tail moment wing warp but noone has said anything about the WING the real cap snaped and killed a few pilots cap 21 then they changed the wing design now cap 232 with the short wedge on the leading edge to fuse no more snap I did this to a GP cap21 and to a Byron 21 and it cured the snap slow fast tight loop it works

Thanks 'ranger

Now we are getting somewhere! Unfortunatly i can't picture the modification you are describing. got any pictures?

Sounds like the mod to the full scale was to add stall strips. They probably extended out about 1/4 to 1/3 the way out from the fuselage. They cause the root of the wing to stall before the tips, helping to keep a tip from dropping and also to keep the ailerons effective, since that part of the wing isn't stalled. The down side is you want an aerobatic plane to stall easily - otherwise you need to work too hard to snap/spin and the judges can see it (mushing, "didn't break" during a snap, etc.)

Somebody might find this interesting. This thread almost helped me destroy my Yellow Aircraft Cap 232. I had just read this thread about an hour before its initial flight. Sure enough, on the first loop attempt, it snapped! "Yesiree, the thread was right, its a snappin' sumofagun".
Didn't check why, just refueled and tried a second flight...same thing,except on landing approach, the nose suddenly pitched down. Applying up elevator, the plane went from nose down to nose up. It must have porpised up and down ten times with me shoving the elevator stick back and forth trying to regain control. Finally, using a lot of throttle, and a hot approach, I was able to level out and save the plane. Obviously, there was a lot more going on during the second flight than just a tendency to snap. Anybody figure it out yet? Yep, you got it! The battery pack had worked loose and was sliding forward with descent, and backwards during climb. I never should have taken off the second time without checking the plane out thoroughly. I don't deserve to still have this plane. Anybody else ever do this? I swear I've learned my lesson.

Glad to hear you still have your plane!

Thanks! I hope I never have to land a tail heavy plane again...still shaking a week later.

Funny thing is I had a CAP 21 (SNAP 21) and a CAP 231 that were prone to snap but my H9 CAP 232 is a *****cat. Someone said the full scale 231 was refitted with an EXTRA wing (because it had a snap tendency!) and renamed 232. Same was done with the model. Don't know if these stories are accurate or not.

Frank

The story I was given was that Mudry (the folks that build the Cap) mated an Extra wing to their fuse to get the Cap 231ex. When Walter Extra found out he cut off the supply of wings, so Mudry built their own and renumbered their version the Cap 232.

I've got both extra and cap too much elevator and both will snap. thats why they are so acrobatic Trainers are much harder to snap. Reduce elevator throw.

This thread is still going? sheeesh

The answer is quite simple..

The #1 reason for caps and extras snapping is becuase of the pilot.. and that's that