Building the flip 3d
#1
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From: New hope, PA,
I just got my flip 3d today. I was wondering did any of you gies use the metal hinges that came with it? I am 14 and i need a little help getting this going. So if you have any tips please let me now thanks. Also what engines are you putting in it. I am putting a saito 91 in it. Thanks again.
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From: South Jordan, UT
Hi, I used Great Planes CA hinges. I use them in most my stuff. I install them the way the U-CAN-DO Manual shows. For power I have a YS 63, but I think your Saito will work well and have a lot of power. If I could do it over again I would use a Saito 100... But thats me.
Nate
Nate
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From: South Jordan, UT
No, I don't remember them being that sloppy. I always pin my hinges with round toothpicks just to make sure. If the slots are too wide you may want to use the metal or get some nylon hinges. Most planes I have built need the slots cleaned out or opened up a little anyway.
Nate
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From: New hope, PA,
i already put the metal ones in the airlerons. I dont know if they are to big now to put CA in or nylon but ill try cause ill use CA for elevator rudder.
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From: South Jordan, UT
One other thing I remember is I cut larger hinges for the rudder. There is not much that holds it there since it is a full flying rudder. I will have to see how many hinges I used. I think three?
Nate
Nate
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From: South Jordan, UT
Well which ever you use make sure they are tight. I am sure both work well if properly installed. This is a wild flying plane that demands a good setup. I am sure you will like it. Good luck with it.
Nate

Nate
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From: New hope, PA,
Thanks ill probably use the CA. thanks for the help Nate. Hopefully i wont run into a lot of problems. If anyone else has tips about anywhere on the plane please let me know thanks again.
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From: Central Point,
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I am building my second Flip and am able to do a few things I would have done differently than on the first.
Don't use CA Hinges. They will not last long on the Rudder anyway. The deflection required for 3D will break them prematurely. Sort of like bending a credit card back and forth a few times. An extreme example but accurate. Most CA hinges are a plastic center covered with an absorbing paper on both sides. They are strong and free at first but will fail. I have used the metal ones with mixed feelings about the epoxy bond of metal to epoxy to wood joint. Drilling these to pin them is a bummer. I have also used the !QUOT!Point!QUOT! hinges with success but don't think there is enough balsa deep enough to really hold them well. I am now using the Sig XX giant scale nylon hinges on my Flip with great results. Way better epoxy bond. The hinge pivot pin section is beefy and allows for tremendous throw. They are easily drilled for either a toothpick pin or what I do is a nylon 4-40 screw. I thread the whole drilling and hardened with thin CA. Once the nylon screw is tightened in place from the bottom, I cover the head with the clear Ultracoat strip I use to seal the hinge gap. The worst part about these type of hinges (metal included) is that you have to use alcohol to clean up the pivot right away. They will still be medium stiff initially but will work in. Sealing the gaps is mandatory on my planes.
If you have already used the CA hinges, don't worry. When one fails they can be removed if you carefully cut them at the gap to remove the control surface and carefully slip a sharp #11 blade down both sides of them and cut them free a little depth at a time. The Sig XX hinges require a slightly enlarged slot width and length anyway. Cost for 15 Sig XX hinges is under $5.00 but could be worth your whole plane.
I want to post this hopefully before you use the CA hinges. I have some other tips but the biggest second tip I can immediately give you is to take your time and be patient. The plane is kind of fragile so don't manhandle it while building it. Save that for the air. You are already ahead of me by knowing about this forum before you build your first Flip,
Good Luck,
Errol
Don't use CA Hinges. They will not last long on the Rudder anyway. The deflection required for 3D will break them prematurely. Sort of like bending a credit card back and forth a few times. An extreme example but accurate. Most CA hinges are a plastic center covered with an absorbing paper on both sides. They are strong and free at first but will fail. I have used the metal ones with mixed feelings about the epoxy bond of metal to epoxy to wood joint. Drilling these to pin them is a bummer. I have also used the !QUOT!Point!QUOT! hinges with success but don't think there is enough balsa deep enough to really hold them well. I am now using the Sig XX giant scale nylon hinges on my Flip with great results. Way better epoxy bond. The hinge pivot pin section is beefy and allows for tremendous throw. They are easily drilled for either a toothpick pin or what I do is a nylon 4-40 screw. I thread the whole drilling and hardened with thin CA. Once the nylon screw is tightened in place from the bottom, I cover the head with the clear Ultracoat strip I use to seal the hinge gap. The worst part about these type of hinges (metal included) is that you have to use alcohol to clean up the pivot right away. They will still be medium stiff initially but will work in. Sealing the gaps is mandatory on my planes.
If you have already used the CA hinges, don't worry. When one fails they can be removed if you carefully cut them at the gap to remove the control surface and carefully slip a sharp #11 blade down both sides of them and cut them free a little depth at a time. The Sig XX hinges require a slightly enlarged slot width and length anyway. Cost for 15 Sig XX hinges is under $5.00 but could be worth your whole plane.
I want to post this hopefully before you use the CA hinges. I have some other tips but the biggest second tip I can immediately give you is to take your time and be patient. The plane is kind of fragile so don't manhandle it while building it. Save that for the air. You are already ahead of me by knowing about this forum before you build your first Flip,
Good Luck,
Errol
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From: New hope, PA,
If i double up the CA hinges it should be fine. I know some people that doubled them up and it works great. It will be either 8 hinges in each airleron. The hinges would be side by side or i double them up and have 16 in each wing. It is hard to explain hopefully you know what i mean. I would put the metal ones in for the rudder though or nylon.
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From: Canton,
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I don't recommend using CA hinge on this plane because:
1) If you have large deflection like 45 deg, CA hinge will give you lots of resistance at those large deflections, which will require a higher grade servo. Doubling up CA hinges will simply double the resistance.
2) The wood used on Flip is soft balsa, and it's easy for CA hinges be ripped out w/o
3) Never use CA hinge on rudder w/ tail wheel because stress from landing will surely break them. I've seen this happen on more than enough planes. Fortunately, when rudder hinge breaks in the air, the plane can usually be landed safely.
I did use the metal hinges that was supplied. But I made V grooves in the joining edges so the hinges' barrels don't cause gaps.
My metal hinge did start to break for the rudder, because I maxed out the deflection, and from landing stress. I'd recommend using Robart Point hinges for rudder.
For elevator and rudder, make sure you increase the bevel before hinging. Without doing this, it will only allow you +/- 30 degrees of movement unless you have big gaps.
Also, make sure you install the tail brace. My tail came loose after vertical descending powered spirals. Fortunately I landed safely.
1) If you have large deflection like 45 deg, CA hinge will give you lots of resistance at those large deflections, which will require a higher grade servo. Doubling up CA hinges will simply double the resistance.
2) The wood used on Flip is soft balsa, and it's easy for CA hinges be ripped out w/o
3) Never use CA hinge on rudder w/ tail wheel because stress from landing will surely break them. I've seen this happen on more than enough planes. Fortunately, when rudder hinge breaks in the air, the plane can usually be landed safely.
I did use the metal hinges that was supplied. But I made V grooves in the joining edges so the hinges' barrels don't cause gaps.
My metal hinge did start to break for the rudder, because I maxed out the deflection, and from landing stress. I'd recommend using Robart Point hinges for rudder.
For elevator and rudder, make sure you increase the bevel before hinging. Without doing this, it will only allow you +/- 30 degrees of movement unless you have big gaps.
Also, make sure you install the tail brace. My tail came loose after vertical descending powered spirals. Fortunately I landed safely.
#19

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From: Central Point,
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Listen to the CA failure rate. I have seen more than one catastrophic elevator CA hinge failure resulting in a bag of toothpicks. They do not land well with one cocked elevator. The ailerons hinges may take it but the rudder and elevators won't live long. I like the Robart point hinges as well but there just isn't enough material in this area of this plane for them. The Sig XX Giant scale nylon hinges are perfect for this plane. If you get a broken hinge from landing stress, the plane is hitting the ground too hard on landing. The tail gear collapses way before the hinge of any type fails.
Notching the bevels to reduce or eliminate gaps is not the answer either. you want the barrel of the hinge exposed for maximum deflection without contacting the attached surface. Use the clear Ultracoat or tape to seal the gap. Your plane will perform great and you won't get flutter from air passing through the gap. All you have to do is seal the bottom side. If you don't think it will look good or something, watch a Flip fly and see if you even notice the control surface gaps in action. The surfaces are probably maxed or near maxed most of the time. It likes it that way.
Notching the bevels to reduce or eliminate gaps is not the answer either. you want the barrel of the hinge exposed for maximum deflection without contacting the attached surface. Use the clear Ultracoat or tape to seal the gap. Your plane will perform great and you won't get flutter from air passing through the gap. All you have to do is seal the bottom side. If you don't think it will look good or something, watch a Flip fly and see if you even notice the control surface gaps in action. The surfaces are probably maxed or near maxed most of the time. It likes it that way.
#20
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From: New hope, PA,
I will probably use the CA hinges for the ailerons by doubling them up side by side not on top but i will put the nylon in the rudder and elevator.



