What fuel are you useing, what glowplug, do you have the glow igniter and are you useing a pump or regulator . Thanks
Ron.

Can you recommend a glow driver. I saw 2. One on Tower Hobbies and One on Horizen. Open for suggesdtions on any any where else to look. Thanks.
Ron.

Do you have a glow driver on your Moki and is it necassary in your opinion. Thanks.
Ron.

Mix my own fuel. 5% runs really well in the Moki's.
KB 1L plug, work great.

Do you have glow igniter attached to Moki 2.10?
Ron.

I have the Wagstaff with Moki 2.1 and I love the combinbation. I am running the Brisson muffler and Jtec engine mount. No pump or cline regulator or any of that other crap! Only mod is to drill out the fuel clunk and use the oversize fuel line. Prop is a Menz 'S' 20x10 and Powermaster 10% synthetic/castor blend. Static rpm is 6600 to 6700 leaned for flight. This has to be one of the best engines I have ever had. It is quiet ,smooth and very powerful and fuel consumption is surprisingly good.......way better than my Saito 180. Static rpm with this prop sounds low but the proof is in the pudding, flight performance is awesome with unlimited vertical. I tried the Mezjlik 20x10 static rpm went up to 7200 but the aircraft lost performance everywhere and noise level increased dramatically. Save your money.

jmw

Thanks for the info. Souds like you are a happy Camper. One of these days I will be too.
Ron.

I'm just wondering what the elevation is in San Antonio, Texas. Way up here in New Mexico at 4600 ft the air is really, really thin and the Moki doesn't breathe as well as it does down there. I tried running without the cline, and consistant performance went out the window. The 20X10 prop, I tried also, but got better preformance with the 20x8. Just goes to show that elevation does MATTER.

A3SPD I would say that altitude definitely does matter. We are at about 600 feet MSL here in San Antonio which does wonders for performance. I had heard the Cline regulator was necessary if you mount the fuel tank on the CG and could not get adequate fuel draw. My tank is mounted right behind the firewall and fuel draw is fine without the regulator. I'm not really a 3D person, more into precision aerobatics, so the 20x10 Menz works fine for me at this altitude. The guys that do a lot of 3D here use the APC 20x8.

jmw

Has anyone tried the Zinger 22-6/10? Am interested in any info on these dual pitch props.

I tried the 22X6/10 on my moki 2.1 which is in a GP patty wagstaff that wieghs 15 lbs. with a smoke system, it was really hard to slow the plane down enough to get it to land, it just wanted to sail right on by, so my opinion is that the braking kinda sucks, but if you use flaps to brake the plane, I guess the performance of the prop is Ok. I'm hoping to get a 23X8, but haven't found one yet.

Just in case my math skills are slipping, how much oil should be added to what amount of 0% nitro fuel? I have a Moki 2.10 (NO pump) that I had in my Wagstaff Extra but I had lots of trouble with it. It is nowhere close to being broke in. It would run forever while the plane was on the ground but the low end idle was rough. When in flight, I could make approx. 2 laps around the field and the engine would die. Seemed very hot also after it died. I was assuming that because the cowl on the Patty was so open that the air was not effectively going over the head thus causing it to overheat. When it did fly without dying in flight, landings were HOT because I could not get it to idle down slow enough for a slow landing. Even on the grass, the plane would taxi with the engine idling as low as could get it without killing it. I have since replaced the engine with a Fuji 50 which is working great but I want to use the Moki either in the Patty or another plane once I can get it running. It sounds like this thread might provide more answers to my dilema.

Ace

Ace, 1 gallon equals 128 ounces so multiply 128X20%=25.6 ounces of oil and 128-25.6 equals 102.4 ounces of fuel. For breakin procedure go back to post 21 of this thread it will work fine. Also, if you read the first page of this thread you will find that I suggest (after breakin) to adjust the needle valve for good performance of the MID-RANGE. I had the same problems your having, while I was trying to adjust for idle rpm, but once I found out to adjust for mid-range throttle, I found it took very little tweaking to get my idle low and smooth. And once this was done the engine would run cooler, and start easier.

ASP3D,

Thanks for the info. At least my math was right after all. I kind of thought maybe I didn't have the fuel mix right. I am going to put the engine on a test stand and see what I can do with it. I read all the posts and I think the midrange adjustment is the way to go.

Ace

Oh, one last question! (I hope!)

The Moki 2.10 output shaft is too short for me to put the prop washer and nut. I had to resort to a tru-turn spinner adapter in order to put my prop and spinner backplate on. The problem is I have to drill the props out with a very large drill bit that I had to buy special just for the hole size. Does anyone have this problem or did I just get short shafted? Pardon the pun...

Thanks!
Ace

You did not get short shafted. In order to resolve my same issue I took a piece of steel to my macinest friend and he made me an extension that measured from the prop washer out to the spinner shaft and machined it for me. What a life saver.
Ron.

i bought the drill bit also. When i drilled the prop though, i put a nut in the bottom(back side of prop) of the hole to keep my drill bit from going all the way through. So therefore the back of the prop still fits the prop shaft. I didn't find it to be to difficult and I'm using a tru turn spinner anyway.

Add 3.5 ounces of Castor oil to bring a gallon of 18% oil content fuel to just over 20% oil content. New engines need extra oil for break in. Mine never overheats and has only 1.25 gallons of fuel through it. It's in a cowling too.

Friend of mine is running the Moki 2.10 in a DP Extra here in Southern New mexico (4400'). He had nothing but headaches with the motor until they changed the motor mounting. They had the motor inverted at first, then bought a Pitts muffler to mount it sideways....and that cured 99% of the problems they were having. The motor makes insane power, and uses less fuel than my YS 140 FZ. I think he is running a NX 20x8 wood prop on 5% Wildcat fuel . Starting is a matter of priming it, hooking up the glow, and flipping it backwards. Starts usually on the first flip. Think he said the plane weigh's in at 16 pounds.

It is running a regulator. I'm thinking about getting one for my Sig Sukhoi...my FPE 2.4 just doesn't cut it up here at this altiutude...

Mark

ok i have the 210 in my great planes pitts flys great i have a patty with the 210 it will go and do whatever you want just make sure to run rich and i use OOO yes OOO nitro, so go have fun .

Hi Folks, I just maidened my WE PW with a Moki 210, she flew great until the engine quit on the final approach and ended in the bad section of town with damage to the LD of the right wing and the motor box (she will fly again). Any way I just wanted to say thanks to the people on this form, although I did not ask for help the information I found on this thread was all I needed to help me figure out how to breathe life in the Moki monster. I tried for 3 hours early this week to get this thing to fire with no luck at all then I followed ASP3D instructions and all of the sudden it was alive, alive I tell yah...

Okay now for some help, I bought this plane used with no paper work on the engine and although I know how to tune glow engines by the pinch method, it did not seem to work for this one, I think the cline regulator had something to do with it. How do you guys tune your engines? tech? pinch test? or what? does any one know of a manual on line I can down load?

I also noticed there was three kinda of adjustments on the carburator, the high speed needle, the low speed (I think) looks like a big disk with a notch linining up with a notch on the carb body and fianly a srew with a nut on top of the carb that apeares to be the carb stop. Is this correct or am I missing something?

Last thing, tank is on the CG and is steup in the following matter:
* Line 1 goes from a clunck to a dot on the left side fo the fuse above the wing for fill and drain...
* Line 2 goes from a clunk to a one way valve to the cline regulator to the carb. the entire line is a larger then standared fule line.
* Line 3 (the tricky one) goes from the vent to a T; one side goes to a dot on the right side fuse above the wing and the other goes to what seems to be a filter and then into a fitting on the back of the motor case.
My questions are, whats with line 3 and do I have to have vent dot unpluged (thats what I did any way)? I am afraid fuel will spil in the fuse durring flight.

Thanks in advance... Hosam

Hosam
Line 3 seems to be your fuel tank pressure line, so unplugging it will cause you to lose all pressure to the tank. Don't unplug it after you fill the tank with fuel, (THE DOT) it is there to release the pressure in the tank from the previous flight, so that you can refuel and be ready to fly again.The little filter thingy (before the fitting on the engine case) is called a "special high frequency check valve" this is part of the cline regulator assembly. This should be in the pressure line, oriented in the correct direction so as to trap pressure in the tank.(small brass end towards engine).