The horizontal stabs are removeable for transport. If it's pushrods I have to disconnect the pushrods since the elevator servos mount on the fuse. If it's pull pull, the pull pull cables have to be disconnected. Is this really practical? Or am I missing something?

You're right Joe, I thought the same myself. I'm just buiding mine and realised how stupid it was. Quite a bind to rig at the field. Twin servo's and pushrods wouldn't be too bad but pull - pull would be worse. They won't be coming off unless I crash it!

Ok so it's not just me. The only way that it could work is if the servos were in the horizontal stabs. Then the servos would just unplug from the servo extensions coming out of the tail of the fuse. I looked for servo mounting holes in the stabs and there were none. I called Dave Patrick and could not get anyone oin the phone. That's why I posted the question here. Man geting this thing in my Honda Accord is going to be a beeotch. I better start looking for a trailor.

I just used a metal clevis and the stock horns. Unsnap the clevis and your done.

Is this with two elevator servos and pushrods? Or the pull pull elevator setup?

Just unscrew the servo screw and remove the horn, to re-install center the elevator with the radio and the servo arm should re-center, or you could mark it, the only problem here would be if you are using metal gear servos, it would require loc-tight everytime you re-installede them, what a pain.

I would think that if the cables were at the proper tension that it would be pretty hard to get the horn on the servo shaft when the everything is at center. I'm also not real crazy about removing the little clips on those Sullivan clevises. I'm sure they never stay on as good after removing them a few times. I'm thinking of just leaving the stabs on at this point. It's seems like more of a pain than it's worth. It would fit in the car better with them off but I'm sure I can still squeeze it in. My 25% CAP232 fits ok but it 7 inches shorter.