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Old 09-18-2002 | 09:16 AM
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From: Melbourne, FL
Default Magic

I am getting a Magic and am wondering what serov's people are using. Are JR 537's strong enough? Or are higher quality servo's recomended? All input if great. Thanx
John
Old 09-18-2002 | 10:48 AM
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There are three Magics at our club which have all been flying all summer.

My Magic is using Futaba S148's.

The second Magic is using the same.

The third Magic is using Futaba S3003's.

None of us has had a servo failure yet. Nor have I read any posts where anyone has had a servo failure using standard servos in a Magic.

IMHO The JR537's should be fine.

Enjoy the Magic. Your going to have fun!
Old 09-18-2002 | 02:48 PM
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I put my Magic together with no modifications at all. I used all the ARF harware including the music wire opull-pull system. Alot of guys "upgraded" different things on their Magics. There may be benefits to that, but I think the point of the MAGIC is to have a cheap ARF that you have no emotional or financial attachment to.

I'm running standard servo's on each aileron and one standard servo on the elvator and throttle. The rudder has a Hitec 605 , a nothin' special higher torque servo.

I put this plane together with a cheap Chinese engine I had just taken off a combat plane and radio gear I already had. This is the most fun I've ever had with an inexpensive, fast assembling ARF.

I rubber-banded the wing on weeks ago for maiden and haven't taken it off yet.
Old 09-19-2002 | 02:50 AM
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I put my Magic together with just a few mods.I used most of the hardware that came with it.A couple of things on the plane just didn't seem right to me,so I altered them.Here are some.

* Changed the linkage on the ailerons to soldered clips
* Spun the fuel tank 90 degrees so I could put the batt under it
* Used a cable system for the throttle(the 2-56 rod bound up a little bit for my liking)


For servos,I used Hitec 300's for ailerons and throttle and Hitec 605's for rudder and elevator.Relatively inexpensive but highly effective.The plane is a blast.I crashed it once and had fixed the next day.I wish all planes could be this cheap and fun.

Good luck and have fun with it
Old 09-19-2002 | 03:38 AM
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S-148's all the way around, on mine, in keeping with the whole "cheap ARF" thing.
The 537's I have feel about the same strength. Dunno the specs.
(Yes... weak enough to stall by hand, holding ELE or RUD and moving stick. They're fine in the air)

I will say now, after a few flights' experience, it's pretty hard on the battery.
Earlier I told someone that the pull-pull system wasn't that bad.
After noticing that I can't do a flat spin, after four flights today, I may modify my opinion

I based my previous opinion on flights consisting mostly of rolls, loops and touch-n-go's.
The past couple days, I've really put the plane through the wringer... mostly snaps, spins,
blunders, tumbles, and some maneuvers that are yet unnamed, and too scary to think about.
(The result of trying manuevers that I'm not competent to do yet, I'd guess. My poor, poor wing )

Best I can tell... after the battery has drained somewhat, there just isn't enough OOMPH,
and either the ailerons won't force it flat anymore, or the elevator starts giving up at that point.

There's still no problem "flying", but the fancy stuff is pretty much "out".
I'm sure the drag of the pull-pull rods are accelerating battery drain a bit.
The pull-pull setup is quite draggy. More than I had thought, previously.

Whether stronger servos, or a stronger battery, or fewer flights would help my case, I don't know.
I don't plan on changing anything. I just know to bring it on home when it won't flatspin any more.

I suppose if I had wanted to spend any extra money on it...
stronger/faster servos, and cables for the pull-pull would've been where I spent it.

My only mods were:

"Battery above elevator servo", so I needed no tailweight with my .46SF.
Z-bends at the ELE/RUD servos, instead of using a 90 and the *loose* snap-keepers.
Cable for throttle, since I mounted the .46 at 120 degrees, to have exhaust underneath.
Aileron pushrods I had in my spares box, again, using Z-bends instead of 90 & snap-keepers.

I just didn't like the way any of the snap-keepers fit, and I hate for stuff to "disconnect" in flight.
Old 09-19-2002 | 11:31 AM
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Default Magic

I am in the process of assembling my Magic. I am using mine as a test-bed for some servos I have not used before just to see how they hold up. I am using Hitec HS-225MGs on the ailerons, HS-5245s (I am testing these) on the rudder and elevator, and HS-85MG for throttle. I am using a Enya SS40BB with 11X4 APC prop for power. We'll see how that works out.

Here are some changes I have made:
I replaced the included fuel tank(6.5 oz) with a 8 oz Sullivan flex tank (Tower sent me an extra one by mistake on my last order ), I swapped out the engine mount for a Dave Brown, and I have some Dubro pull-pull kits laying around for the rudder and elevator. I am considering putting flying wires on the rudder. It looks a little weak to me. But that's it in a nutshell.
Old 09-19-2002 | 12:24 PM
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From: Oskaloosa, IA
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C_Watson,

Try changing your battery to a 6 volt.

I'm running that on mine and can flat spin till my hearts content. And I'm also using 148 servos.
Old 09-19-2002 | 02:10 PM
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I like the idea of going to a 6V five cell pack in the Magic. Then we gan get more "ooomph" from the crappy servos it seems we're all using. Right now I have a four cell square pack crammed in on the tray next to the throttle servo. It's a good place for balance. With a hunk of lead on the tail I balance at about 5.25" and it spins really well.

I'd really have to look around and see if I could even squeeze a five cell pack in there, but that's a stellar idea.
Old 09-19-2002 | 02:19 PM
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From: Oskaloosa, IA
Default Magic

I'm running a 6 volt 1100 Nimh pack.

My pack is mounted with velcro, on two pieces of triangle stock right above the elevator servo at the back of the radio compartment.

The pack is "sandwiched" between the triangle stock and the wing. It doesn't go anywhere.

Works like a champ.

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