first 3D plane (can I trust this tail?)
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From: Kopavogur, ICELAND
it´s about 2,2 kg airplane with a .46 powerplant

and I´m not sure if I can trust this 3/16 (not used to the imperial system so hopefully you´ll know what I mean) thick piece of wood linking the two elevator sections together


it´s quite flexible but I fear that it might break in high speed, high stress maneuvers and/or give away and make the aircraft roll (or is that normal that it gives away a little but not breaking in order for it to do a specific maneuver? I´m basing this on the "3D airplanes" in RealFlight G2 where the elevators move differently at full throw)
there is also the matter of the way I have balanced the airplane, I feel like it is way too much but that´s how I get the right CG


not quite sure about it
anyway... any input or comments would be appreciated

and I´m not sure if I can trust this 3/16 (not used to the imperial system so hopefully you´ll know what I mean) thick piece of wood linking the two elevator sections together


it´s quite flexible but I fear that it might break in high speed, high stress maneuvers and/or give away and make the aircraft roll (or is that normal that it gives away a little but not breaking in order for it to do a specific maneuver? I´m basing this on the "3D airplanes" in RealFlight G2 where the elevators move differently at full throw)
there is also the matter of the way I have balanced the airplane, I feel like it is way too much but that´s how I get the right CG


not quite sure about it
anyway... any input or comments would be appreciated
#2
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From: salisbury,
MA
if they are CA hinges just cut them out and start over if you feel like it's to much of a gap...i think it will be fine but it's up to you
#3
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From: The Woodlands,
TX
Tape the gap and some flying wires may be in order.
And shoot some thick CA in there if you don't like it.
May want to get that prop off it. That is a slow flying plane with what looks like a fast flying prop.
And shoot some thick CA in there if you don't like it.
May want to get that prop off it. That is a slow flying plane with what looks like a fast flying prop.
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From: Chantilly, VA
You need to change your thought process with this plane..
This is a SLOW flight HIGHLY manuverable plane that is meant to NEVER see high speed flight.
The only time you should use high power is in straight up flight only.
it´s quite flexible but I fear that it might break in high speed,
The only time you should use high power is in straight up flight only.
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From: Kopavogur, ICELAND
ORIGINAL: YNOT
Tape the gap and some flying wires may be in order.
And shoot some thick CA in there if you don't like it.
May want to get that prop off it. That is a slow flying plane with what looks like a fast flying prop.
Tape the gap and some flying wires may be in order.
And shoot some thick CA in there if you don't like it.
May want to get that prop off it. That is a slow flying plane with what looks like a fast flying prop.
ORIGINAL: JBrannon
You need to change your thought process with this plane..
This is a SLOW flight HIGHLY manuverable plane that is meant to NEVER see high speed flight.
The only time you should use high power is in straight up flight only.
You need to change your thought process with this plane..
it´s quite flexible but I fear that it might break in high speed,
The only time you should use high power is in straight up flight only.
#7
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I believe the question was about whether the 3/16" connecting the 2 halves of the elevator is strong and stiff enough. On my .46 size 3d planes with that type elevator the piece connecting the elevator halves is 1/4" HARD wood. If you want to be sure you could replace the 3/16" balsa (if that is what it is) with 1/4" bass wood or similar, or you could laminate a piece of hardwood to the existing setup . Either way seems to require removing the hinges , fixing , replace hinges. Maybe a project for long winter nights.
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From: Kopavogur, ICELAND
ORIGINAL: Jack Hyde
I believe the question was about whether the 3/16" connecting the 2 halves of the elevator is strong and stiff enough. On my .46 size 3d planes with that type elevator the piece connecting the elevator halves is 1/4" HARD wood. If you want to be sure you could replace the 3/16" balsa (if that is what it is) with 1/4" bass wood or similar, or you could laminate a piece of hardwood to the existing setup . Either way seems to require removing the hinges , fixing , replace hinges. Maybe a project for long winter nights.
I believe the question was about whether the 3/16" connecting the 2 halves of the elevator is strong and stiff enough. On my .46 size 3d planes with that type elevator the piece connecting the elevator halves is 1/4" HARD wood. If you want to be sure you could replace the 3/16" balsa (if that is what it is) with 1/4" bass wood or similar, or you could laminate a piece of hardwood to the existing setup . Either way seems to require removing the hinges , fixing , replace hinges. Maybe a project for long winter nights.
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From: HENDERSON, TX
Ill tell you what I think. That looks like a phoenix models FunStar 3-D. I know it may be called something else where you live, but around hear that is what it is called. I had one with a OS 52 FS and my friend had one with a TT 46 pro. We flew the crap out of ours. We did full throttle passes and full throttle walls. We did full throttle walls with the main wheels on the ground, which slams the rudder into the ground. I lost mine in a mid air. My buddy was doing a durability test. After 10 or so full throttle blenders, it finally broke one wing half. So to answer your question, if the plane is built according to the manual, then you wont have any problems with the elevator area. Now all of the comments about pulling the pins in the hinges and glues them again, go by that. The hinges will get loose. Also check for broken ribs in the wings. Mine flew 100 flights with 2 ribs broken in one wing, but this was a beater plane for me. I didnt care. But if you plan to put 200 flights on it, check for everything that could be wrong such as hinges, ribs, firewall, and the servo mounts in the tail.
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From: Kopavogur, ICELAND
ORIGINAL: 3D ONdaEDGE
Ill tell you what I think. That looks like a phoenix models FunStar 3-D. I know it may be called something else where you live, but around hear that is what it is called. I had one with a OS 52 FS and my friend had one with a TT 46 pro. We flew the crap out of ours. We did full throttle passes and full throttle walls. We did full throttle walls with the main wheels on the ground, which slams the rudder into the ground. I lost mine in a mid air. My buddy was doing a durability test. After 10 or so full throttle blenders, it finally broke one wing half. So to answer your question, if the plane is built according to the manual, then you wont have any problems with the elevator area. Now all of the comments about pulling the pins in the hinges and glues them again, go by that. The hinges will get loose. Also check for broken ribs in the wings. Mine flew 100 flights with 2 ribs broken in one wing, but this was a beater plane for me. I didnt care. But if you plan to put 200 flights on it, check for everything that could be wrong such as hinges, ribs, firewall, and the servo mounts in the tail.
Ill tell you what I think. That looks like a phoenix models FunStar 3-D. I know it may be called something else where you live, but around hear that is what it is called. I had one with a OS 52 FS and my friend had one with a TT 46 pro. We flew the crap out of ours. We did full throttle passes and full throttle walls. We did full throttle walls with the main wheels on the ground, which slams the rudder into the ground. I lost mine in a mid air. My buddy was doing a durability test. After 10 or so full throttle blenders, it finally broke one wing half. So to answer your question, if the plane is built according to the manual, then you wont have any problems with the elevator area. Now all of the comments about pulling the pins in the hinges and glues them again, go by that. The hinges will get loose. Also check for broken ribs in the wings. Mine flew 100 flights with 2 ribs broken in one wing, but this was a beater plane for me. I didnt care. But if you plan to put 200 flights on it, check for everything that could be wrong such as hinges, ribs, firewall, and the servo mounts in the tail.
it´s a FunTastic 3D by Protech and it´s built according to the manual and nothing seems to be broken (yet) and the hinges have been CA-ed very securely
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From: The Woodlands,
TX
[quote]ORIGINAL: center of the universe
ORIGINAL: YNOT
Tape the gap and some flying wires may be in order.
And shoot some thick CA in there if you don't like it.
May want to get that prop off it. That is a slow flying plane with what looks like a fast flying prop.
Tape the gap and some flying wires may be in order.
And shoot some thick CA in there if you don't like it.
May want to get that prop off it. That is a slow flying plane with what looks like a fast flying prop.
Use some clear tape or covering material to seal the hinge gap.
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From: Fremont , OH
I think I'd also look for a way to get rid of of the weight added to the tail. Move the battery pack and/or receiver behind the C/G. Relocate the servo's if necessary.
K.O.
K.O.
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From: aviemore, UNITED KINGDOM
I just did a similar job on a cermark banchee which is a similar type of plane with a tail set up the same as that. A mate of mine has one also and though the tail has stood the test of time I swear you can feel the flex in it in flight. As I needed some weight in the tail anyway as I have a Saito 82 up front I decided to cut out the joiner and fit separate servos for each elevator in the tail, why put weight on if it's not going to work for a living
I'll tell you if it makes a difference tomorrow if the weather is good to us I should get to maiden her
I'll tell you if it makes a difference tomorrow if the weather is good to us I should get to maiden her
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From: Kopavogur, ICELAND
I don´t really have that much elbow room to do anything, but I´ll double check it tomorrow and see if there´s anything that can be done. I´m hoping to maiden this plane soon if I can get the engine running good but it would still work with that hideous piece of lead there anyway, right?
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From: Fremont , OH
No doubt it will fly OK as long as the plane is in reasonable balance. Remember though all unnecessary weight is a detriment to all airplanes especially 3D type .
Good Luck
K.O.
Good Luck
K.O.
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From: Kopavogur, ICELAND
ORIGINAL: K.O.
No doubt it will fly OK as long as the plane is in reasonable balance. Remember though all unnecessary weight is a detriment to all airplanes especially 3D type .
Good Luck
K.O.
No doubt it will fly OK as long as the plane is in reasonable balance. Remember though all unnecessary weight is a detriment to all airplanes especially 3D type .
Good Luck
K.O.
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From: Kopavogur, ICELAND
ORIGINAL: drumbum
make a hatch and put the battery in the tail if you have to.. thats what i had to do on a U-Can-do. ditch the lead
make a hatch and put the battery in the tail if you have to.. thats what i had to do on a U-Can-do. ditch the lead
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From: Lynchburg,
VA
no, just keep it away from the antenna
What i did to make sure the hatch was in the right place for perfect balence was. keep checking CG and tapeing the battery further back to the outside of the fuse, then once i found proper CG i then cut the bottom. and made a hatch...
What i did to make sure the hatch was in the right place for perfect balence was. keep checking CG and tapeing the battery further back to the outside of the fuse, then once i found proper CG i then cut the bottom. and made a hatch...



