great i just finished puttin the ca hinges in mine yesterday . i will keep eye on em tho. i also have a ys63 but did a few mods like am going pullpull on elev and rudder. and i carved a notch out of inboard area of both elev halves to allow for more throw in the rudder.... . am using high torque servos all around also...not sure why i did all this as i am not much of a 3D pilot....but i just couldn't help myself...

I am new to the pizazz started flying mine a few weeks ago with a rossi 45 with a tuned pipe and run a 12 x4 prop. It has unlimeted vrt .I have programed a snap roll and spoilers with elevator. I was too scared to try the snap just yet but tried the speed brake switch and it climbed a wall from level flight guess I got too much spoiler in it. I cant seem to get to hover, but this is my first airplane I dared to try it in. I made me a pbf as a hovering trainer. What should I make my cg for easiest hovering. and wher can I go to learn all 7 of the 3d manuvers. Oh yes I too ripped out my gear and I am now going to install 1/4 20 nylon bolts to fix that and my engine mount plate cracked and was replaced with 7075-t6 .090 will never break now hehe.

A good starting point on how to do 3D is Mike McConville's articles at this url http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/articles/archives.asp

Reid, the Pizazz does a great waterfall. Set the flaperons at 100% and go for it. You may have to use a little rudder correction.
Ed M.

Hey Guys,

I've been flying my pizazz for a while now with a Saito .72 with an APC 13x6 prop. I have been trying to learn how to hover for a while and I'm still having some trouble. I have the CG almost 5in back and I'm not sure if I should push it any furthur back. Does anyone have a good setup for the Pizazz with the .72 to work well with hovering and other 3D maneuvers? Thanks for your help!

Owen

i have mine set up w/ an OS 70 4 stroke. tried a 13x6 on it but not enough power.i am now using a 14x4.Works great.APC prob so id doesnt bend.can hover at 1/2 throttle.i have my plane so t is a little tail heavy. not sure exactly where my CG is.

Howdy,

I'm putting a Saito 80 on my new Pizazz. I'm new to 4 stroke and am not sure what prop to use. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I just flew my new 4.75 LB PIZZAZ, all I can say is wow. This model with the Magnum 46 xls and tower muffler is hovering at a little under half throttle. I am now getting 12,900 with a APC 12.25 X 3.75 with WC 10% 80-20. The biggest problem with this combo is that the power needed to hover is low in the the power band so transition is tricky to maintain a hover. I am glad I made a framed up stick tail and pull-pull on the rudder, and tossed the axles and tires. Has any one compared the APC 12.25 x 3.75 to the APC 12 x 4.?

Hi,

I just bought a H9 Pizazz , and want to make sure that I assemble it the best way possible. Your advice would be greatly appreciated.

After looking it over, this is what I'm planning on doing:

1) Throw ALL the stupid hinges away! I still don't know whether I'm going to use Great Planes Nylon Pinned Hinges, or just a better grade of CA Hinge. Has anyone tried Sig EZ-Hinges, and if so, how are they working out? I know the Radio South CA Hinges would work...but I don't have any of those.

2) I'm planning on using the wood engine mounting rails. But I'm going to make steal mounting brackets instead of the slotted aluminum brackets that come with it.

3) I looked at the Landing Gear & LG mounting, and they both look very strong, and usable (Just a little heavy). Are people just replacing them for prop clearance? I'm planning on using an ASP 80 4-Cycle engine, and I think I'll be using an APC 14 x 4 prop.

4) I would like to put (2) servos in the tail, for the elevators, instead of the split pushrod, and was wondering how this would work out for balancing the model? The ASP 80 engine weighs about 22 ounces...So it is kind of on the heavy side.

5) I'm going to replace the tail wheel with a spring tail asm. (just my preference)

6) The manual says to put the CG at 3 1/4 to 3 3/4...is this right? What are you guys putting the CG at?

7) Is the hardware (pushrods & clevises) worth keeping, or should I replace them with heavier, better quality stuff?

Well, that's about it...

Could you please let me know what you think of the way I plan on setting my Pizazz up, and if you have any comments on something listed above, or something you would recommend that I do...PLEASE let me know. I haven't started putting it together yet, and now would be the perfect time to make changes.

Thank You,

Mark

Motorman17-
If you have a computer radio, try playing around with the throttle curve feature. Your throttle curve is probably linear at this point. That is, the throttle servo moves in a direct relation to the stick position.

By changing the throttle curve, you can lengthen the 'feel' of the powerband with your stick. In other words, when the throttle is in the powerband your throttle servo will not be moving a lot in relation to the stick.

Jake

Hi Mark, (3D Romeo)

1). Yes throw them away. I would think the GP nylon hinges or robarts would be fine. I used the dubro 1/4 scale pinned hinges. maybe a little overkill, but i figured with all the wild manuvers it wouldn't hurt. when you enlarge the slots the saw dust stays in side. looks kind of funny.

2) I have a saito 80 in mine and used the regular mount. so far no problems. just make sure you use nylon lock nuts or lock tight to prevent them coming loose from vibration.

3) You will need to get a bigger gear with that prop. i am running a 13 x 6 and i barely had cleareance with the regular gear. the tips were green from cutting the grass. i went to a bigger gear and 3" wheels and everything is cool now.

4) I just used the regular pushrods. the y on the elevator and a straight on the rudder. so far no problems. although i am thinking about putting pull-pull on the rudder. only because i like pull-pull.

5) I replaced the tail wheel with a spring tail, sullivan. easier to install and no cutting into the rudder. easier for repairs

6) I balanced mine like the book said and used the control and expo settings with my JR 8103. if you have a computer radio, use it on this baby.

7) I replaced all my rods and clevises with 4-40 hardware. again i figured due to the stress on some of the manuvers, i figured the 4-40 wouldn't flex. take the hardware from the kit and donate it. first of all it is metric, which means you have to use metric clevises. if something happened at the field and you needed to replace one, using a standard one on metric rods is a disaster waiting to happen. second of all i think it is junk.

8). i added two small blocks and about halfway back in the hatch opening, just past the servos going towards the tail, of the radio gear. mine belliied out a little so i added the blocks and drilled holes to put servo screws for added support and to eliminate the droop. .

you will love this plane. it makes me look like a better flier than I am. i am just starting to catch onto hanging it and rolling it on the prop. can't wait for this lousy weather to break to get more flight time in.
Bill

Hi Bill,

Thanks for all the info!

I copied it down, and will keep it handy when ever I get around to putting it together.

Do you know how much your Pizazz weighs (empty tank)?

With my ASP 80 4-Cycle I would be looking at almost 5 1/2 lbs!

With a decent .46 2-Cycle I could easily cut 1/2 lb off of that.

What do you think?

No i haven't actually weighed it but i can tell you there isn't much to it. i do not weigh my planes when i am done unless i have to add weight and with the engines i had in there i did not have to add any. so i figure that is a good thing.

it is a very light plane. with the power of the 80 in there as long as you balance it out i don't think weight will be an issue.



I originally had a supertigre 61 in it and i changed it over to the saito 80. the saito 80 weighs 18.6 ounces and the supertigre was 18.5 with the muffler.

thebluemax

I just took off the choke assembly on my ASP 80 and threw the engine on the scale...I'm down to 21.5 oz. now!

I know, still kinda' heavy...but it's not much more than your Saito 80 now (only 2.9 oz. approx.).

Did you have to do anything to balance your model, or were you able to get it balanced just shifting around your radio gear?

Also, you said that you went to bigger gear for ground clearance...What gear did you end up getting? If I don't buy a replacement, I'm thinking of making one out of some 1/8" x 1" aluminum that I got laying around the shop. I've used it before on other planes with success. It won't look as good as the gear that came with it. But then again, I never bought the Pizazz for it's looks anyway...and it probably will save me some weight, too! Another bonus if I end up making the gear myself, is that I can make it any size I want.

One last thing...In your No. 8 (in the previous post) you mention adding 2 blocks. Could you describe in a little more detail what this was for, and how you did it?

Thanks again for the help!

i lucked out as mine balanced just fine. my battery was under the fuelk tank and the reciever was in the pocket in front of the wing and behind the tank.

the gear i used i had laying around in my shop for years. it is made by halico and i believe they are out of business. if you can make one then you will be able to make sure you have the clearance. good landing gear are not cheap and you don't want to spend the money only to find out you still don't have the clearance.

the blocks are 1/4 thick, 3/8 wide, and 1 inch long. they are in front of the servos and glue to the inside of the fuse even with the fuse side and fuse bottom. you don't want it to be sticking above it as the hatch needs to lay flush on the fuse bottom. it is just a block at the midpoint between the rear of the hatch cover and the landing gear. you also want to make sure they do not interfere with the movement of the servos.

mine was hanging down, so i added the blocks and put a screw through the hatch cover into the block to keep the hatch cover on the fuse instead of a little drooping. i will send you a very, very crude drawing that should help you understand what i did. i tried to attach it but it is too big.

Has anyone had problems with the fuse seperating behind the canopy? My pizazz recently seperated behind the canopy and flying got real sticky. Got it back on the ground in on piece but will need some structural repair to the fuse. Running an OS 46 fx.

estacy

Is anyone running rubber spacers on the motor mounts to keep the plane from resonating at certain RMS?

Some of you guys have talked about changing the fuel tank on the pizzaz. I bought a Sullivan Flex tank 12oz. Hiw did you put it in and where does the reciever and battery go for the best balance?

There are no real instructions for installing the fuel tank. Does anyone have some suggestions? and the Throttle?

I put my tank in the notch in the wing LE. I run a Saito .72 so the throttle runs on the left side of the tank. The tank works good back there unless you do a 15' loop at full power. It will kill the engine if less than half a tank. It dosn't do it with the tank up an inch. My RX is under the tank. The battery is behind the servos. I had to cut a hole in the wing sheeting to get in in there, but no problems. I also turned the gear backwards.It helps the CG.
My engine is as far back on the mount as it can get. I had to notch the tank cover to clear the intake tube. This setup works good and I added do lead. The CG is 1/2" behind recomended.
I to am having trouble with hover.
The Pizzaz is currently on moth balls. I bought a Funtana thinking it would be a step up. It does track better for pattern type stuff, but it's not the tumbler the Pizzaz is. After 150 flights on the Pizzaz the airframe was showing some stress cracks. I thought I should retire it before it came apart in the air. Now I'm having second thoughts. I've got 25 flights on the Funtana and still struggling. later David

I put a 12oz Hayes in there and I am running a saito 80 with a 12 x 8 prop. the battery is under the tank and the receiver is behind the tank in the notch of the wing. I have not had any problems with this combination and she will go vertical for almost forever. I did turn the carb around so the throttle is on the right and I took the choke off. I can get up to 20 minutes on a flight with this tank, engine, and prop combo.

I balanced it according to the manual but I did need some lead (1 oz) in the tail. this is because of the weight of the Saito 80 and the landing gear was moved up to the rear edge of the fuse in front of the leading edge of the wing.

I had to do this because mine went in and during the rebuilding process I made the wing bolt in instead of being glued in. I used four blocks. Two on the spars at the leading edge and two on the trailing edge like any other wing. I converted the bottom piece from the original landing gear block to the trailing edge of the wing to a hatch. I attached small wood blocks to the hatch sides to hold the bottom on.

I also added pull-pull for the rudder and I moved the throttle servo to the front side of the spar by cutting away the sheeting. I put the charge switch above the wing and below the cockpit.

Even though the wing is bolted on is does not come out like a regular wing. But at least I can take it apart if i need to get in there. It came out really good and she flies great!! I also put some CA on the insides of the fuse going to the tail while I had it apart as there were some loose spots.

It was a-lot of work but man was it worth it!!!!