beachbrada

My Feedback: (17)

I also made a shelf to mount the battery in the tail, but my battery is as far back as it will in the tail and still be on the shelf and I was still barely getting 3.5 for the C.G. With the rudder servo farther back I can mount my reciever just forward of it, and throttle servo is going where the rudder servo used to be. What setup do you have on the tail wheel, the springs dont seem to turn the wheel well, and they are stretched pretty good. It wasnt that hard to relocate the servo, and yes its a 90 degree adapter on the engine. How would I support it, and where does it tend to break?

jamesrxx951

i dont use the tail wheel spring it is just loose and works fine. most everyone in my club do the same including people that have 30-35% planes all my planes don't and no issuses at all. just use alittle thrust to turn the tail. i never supported mine after i found out that you have to support it if you attach the muffler to it i never used one again. just used the stock setup. i believe i might have to try and look it up again but they are suppost to be used with those long flexy pipes that horizon sells.

beachbrada

My Feedback: (17)

I wonder if a pushrod in place of the spring would work fine. Do you fly on grass or concrete? I need some sort of steering or my plane has a mind of its own.

jamesrxx951

that servo looks good in there. hopefully it will work out for your cg. and boy you are right your battery is back there aways. this winter i was thinging of installing my rudder servo in the back on the other side of the elevator servo. maybe i could bring my bat closer up front. what did yours come in at for weight. mine was 7lbs 8oz i believe. close to that anyway.

beachbrada

My Feedback: (17)

I was looking at putting my rudder servo back there also but I dont see enough space. Also if you look closely there is a stronger piece of balsa glued on the inside where the elevator servo mounts. So all I could think of was gluing something on the outside for the rudder but it wouldnt be to appealing. I think my plane is close to 8lbs also, I need to get a fishing scale, Im not sure how accurate stepping on the home scale with the plane in my hands is. Ill let you know how my plane balances once I get it all done. It was fairly easy relocating the rudder servo, I just added a stronger piece of balsa to that little shelf with some 6 minute epoxy. And it feels pretty strong. I also covered the entire shelf with epoxy to help strengthen it.

jamesrxx951

yea it didn't really look to easy to me either but i just glanced at it. sounds like your set up should work real well. hows that 125 pull that plane around. it should be a real power monster.

beachbrada

My Feedback: (17)

I did the first few flights with a 16x4 and boy was it slow. I was thinking to myself that something was wrong with the engine since I was at full throttle and it wasnt flying fast at all. Fast would not have been a word used to describe it, LOL. But I switched to a 16x6 and it was a whole lot quicker. I think if I wanted it any faster, which I probably wont, I would drop back down to a 15x7-15x8. The 125 give a prop range of 15x7 - 17x6, but even with a 16x4 it was way under the advertised RPMs. Hopefully it gets better as it gets broken in more.

jamesrxx951

let it break in and it should come alive. i've come to love the menz props have had great success with these. i friend at the club has a profile with the 125 and after many props put on a menz 16/6 and never looked back.

beachbrada

My Feedback: (17)

who sells them I might have to try one out.

jamesrxx951

http://desertaircraft.com/page.php?Page=Menz. thats were we usually buy them. you could do a search and see if anyone else does but we always go through desertaircraft {DA}

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

guys, which servos did you put on the rudder? i was thinking on the s3010 but im not sure. S3004 all around and S3010 on ruder.

jamesrxx951

i use a hitec 5625 on the rudder because i already had it and it is just fine. so the s3010 on 6v should be just fine. aeroworks suggest 60oz min so the s3004 on 6v might be marginal according to aeroworks. used ds821 on mine and they work great. all on 6v

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

yeah i think with the s3010 will be fine....has 72.2 torque with 4.8v.

McChiken

I was thinkin of getting the 3010's for a mojo . I was talkin to some fellow 3d'ers and the suggested HS-475's or Spectrum DS-821's . Said the 3010's get slack in the gears . I don't know this personally but I trust these guys opinions . So i'm ordering 475's .

Anyone had this issue with the 3010's ?

Note: The guys I talk to are hard core 3Der's and are very hard on their planes .

I put a HS-965mg on my rudder for the Edge.

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

well i just order the s3305 servos for my new bird, 5 to have separate alerons. Lot of people told me that the s3305 are great servos so i just bought it with the 0.81 OS Alfa engine.

jamesrxx951

those servo's seem to be powerfull enough. if i was to make a suggestion if you plan on any aerobatics with this plane use a 6v battery to keep the speed up on these servos. on 4.8v they are rather slow. just my observation

- Bearings: Dual ball bearings
- Gears: Metal
- 60° speed: 0.25 sec @ 4.8v
- 60° speed: 0.20 sec @ 6.0v
- Torque: 99.00 oz/in @ 4.8v
- Torque: 124.00 oz/in @ 6.0v
- 1.90 x 0.80 x 1.50 inches
- 1.64 ounces

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

thanks for your advice James..yes i bought the hobbico 6V 2000 mah battery for this toy. I think will be enough.

Regards and happy new year to everyone!!!!

beachbrada

My Feedback: (17)

I just got done shifting everything back to help balance the plane with the Saito 125. I haven't tried balancing it yet to see how much I can move the battery forward.

wbuckzbery

I got an areoworks edge 540t 46-60 for x mass from my wife and sons. Your setup looks good. I'm still torn about engine size 91 100 or 120 this helps alot in thinking it over. if any one is interested the manual on line and in the book shows the fuel tank that came with the plane with the stopper on the bottom of the tank when installed. Didn't look right to me, didn't line up right with hole in fire wall. flip it 180% and its perfect, also the right height for engine carb. Called aeroworks wonderfull support and they said this was correct. Manual with the plane and online show the older small tank. The new bigger 450 cc tank goes in with the stopper on top. So watch the vent tube and pickup tube positions also to match the change. They should add this to the online manual as an amendum at least. What size is your rudder servo arm . I'm not sure what to use to get full throw,2" or 2 1/4.

jamesrxx951

a 2" arm will work just fine, give you all the throw you need. and if altitude is no issue i'm at 500' above sea level use a saito 100 plenty of power good on fuel and just great engine

beachbrada

My Feedback: (17)

You're absolutely right about the fuel tank being backwards in the manual, I set mine up just as the picture showed and the stopper didn't line up. So I flipped it over and adjusted the exhaust tube to point to the new up. Also I would agree with going with the Saito 100, I went with a 125 because I was originally going to get the Seagull Edge 540 which fly's around close to 10lbs but at the last minute I ordered the Aeroworks version. Its a very very nice flying plane, it feels like its on rails and cuts right through wind. I did a maiden with 15-20 mph wind and it was barely even affected. I wouldnt suggest setting your CG to the 2 3/4 as the manual states, it will be way too nose heavy. I did my maiden with it between 3.25 and 3.5 and I still needed down elevator trim. Thats why I shifted everything back so I could get 3.5 without adding weight. You would probably be fine to maiden between 3 and 3.25 then move back if needed. Also if you get the Saito 100 it will be easier to just move battery back to get the balance point. If it turns out you need to move battery back behind rudder servo you can make a shelf like jamesrxx951 and I have. I epoxied heavy duty velcro that you can get from walmart in the crafts section, its a gray color. That stuff works really well at holding the battery down, its a pain getting it off, thats how strong it is. Let us know if you have anymore questions, chances are we had some of the same ones.

beachbrada

My Feedback: (17)

I just got done balancing my plane after moving the servo's back, and with the battery in the same position from before I made the change, the plane is balanced dead on 3.5". Its a little hard to get it to stay still inverted, it tends to tip in either direction with the slightest movement, but upright the plane sits level no problem. Before the mod with the battery in the same spot the plane sat at 3 3/8" so there was about an 1/8" shift back in the CG from the change. But I also added a tiny tiny bit of weight to the nose by adding two fuel tees and two small fuel lines. Now, with the servos pushed back and with the battery as far back as I can mount it I can get the plane to sit at about 3.75" without adding weight. Im going to fly her tomorrow to see how 3.5" CG is, and add 1/4 ounce weights to the tail one at a time if I still want it further back.

wbuckzbery

I think i'm going with saito 100.Did you mount yours on a 45% or upside down. I hear that they can flood and stall upside down. Does onboard glow become nessary.

beachbrada

My Feedback: (17)

wbuckzbery, I had heard the same thing and was reluctant to mount mine inverted. But I talked to some people on here and they convinced me that as long as you get the motor tuned right it doesnt matter what position the engine is in for it to run right. Flooding on the other hand, I did experience some flooding because my fuel tank is higher than my carb so the fuel just gravity fed into the crab whenever it wanted. But a guy at the field along with a couple guys on here said to run your carb fuel line so that instead of going straight down to the carb make it go up then do you u turn and go back down to the carb. This way the first section of the fuel tube is going against gravity so the fuel cant run down into the carb. I also put a zip tie around the line and the engine mount to help hold it in place, dont make it tight, just snug so you dont constrict fuel flow. I also heard that the onboard glow is a crutch for people who dont have theirs tuned right, so you shouldnt need it. Ive got 5 flights so far on my Edge and I only had one dead stick, it was on the maiden flight, I ran out of gas.[:@]

jamesrxx951

it runs just fine inverted and the glow driver is just a option if you don't want to use a glow stick. as long as you have the low end tuned correct you will never need the onboard driver. the only thing to remember is yes the tank is higher than the carb and it could siphon out but aslong as when it is off the carb is completly closed it cant leak out when it is off. and on it is just fine.