bubbagates

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Bob,

Very nice to hear. What's up with the engine?

Bob Pastorello

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See post 249

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Oh, yeah. Probably important for me to mention something that is REALLY a button of mine. NUMB tailwheel steering. Nearly MEANINGLESS tailwheel springs and junk... I will convert to direct tiller drive before I fly again. I am one of those guys that REALLY wants the wheel to steer before the "rudder" pushes... so... I have YET to find a spring setup that I have ever decided was solid enough without putting huge load on rudder servos.

BTW - don't let the tall, and somewhat narrow "stance" of the main gear intimidate you. It is solid, and wasn't too springy.

Sturtz

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Bob,,, you said you'd call before you went out there brother. Oh well,,,, looks like you did fine without me.
I was just worried it might be muddy in the parking area. Your van would be hell to push out alone. LOL !! Just kidding.
KUDOs On the Maiden Bob !!!! WTG !!

pit_basher

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Tower has the new [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLGM4&P=7]GP Yak 54[/link] listed for early Jan. Personally I don't like it

kennyandannie

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Well Mr Pastorello,

You've done it again, this might just be my next plane. Shoot me a PM when you get sick of it, and I'll slide it in right next to my Showtime

Ken

MX240

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Thank-you Bob,
Sounds like she flew great under your expert guidance. Glad to hear that this plane can be slowed down for the landings. I am now holding off mounting my big rudder servo in the tail till I get this plane more done. I sometimes program my radio to move the ailerons UP a small amount for landings. The airplane settles in for a solid landing and this works best in cross wind landings where things get cross controlled. [>:]
Below are a couple of pics of the Bison 2.4 getting positioned on the firewall and another picture with the muffler temporary bolted in place with motor held on with the two top bolts. The stand-offs are 1 3/8" long and I think will be perfect. I will notch out about a half inch of the wooden motor box to clear.
Thanks again Bob for flying your bird for us.

jlkonn

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A big CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!![sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=tongue.gif]
JLK

AWCFlyr

Anyone out there considered a Moki 2.1 in the front? I have 2 sitting in boxes that need homes for. I know that they are guzzlers of fuel, but I'm willing to sacrifice a bit to utilize an engine I already have...along with a 1/2 dozen 20X8 C/F props.
Looking forward to the responses as well as more pix as you build 'em.

Balsa Steel

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Bob P.-

Thanks for the detailed flight report! Makes me anxious to get mine in the air, although it will still be a while since I don't have an engine for it yet.

Do you think your cooling is adequate with your cowl in it's present form, now that it's been flown? I did a little searching and found a dummy radial that will fit, athough the cylinders are spaced with openings that may, or may not have to be blocked off.

See if you think this will do:
http://www.franktiano.com/scaleproductFrameset.htm

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I posted one from Top Flite (someone else's idea, but this one will be the right size) http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3680983

Can't really say about the cooling, as today was pretty cool air. I'll check tomorrow.

Also - found something that made the tailwheel steering less good - the alum. bracket supplied bent almost FLAT! And that was just 6 landings. I've put a Dubro on there now, so that problem is gone.

ExperimentalAviator

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AWCFlyer,

I just picked up my Goldberg Yak at the LHS today, and I'm installing my Moki 2.1 with Bisson Pitts Muffler (engine side mounted). This engine hauled my 19 lb. Christen Eagle with authority; 30 foot ground roll and then depart with unlimited vertical performance. I would recommend the APC 20 x 8 propeller.

Install a 32 oz. fuel tank near the C.G., and use a Cline Fuel Controller within one inch of the carburetor. Also, large fuel tubing works just fine. I tried the larger 5/32 fuel tubing with no gain in performance, and it doesn't fit the T-barbs very well. Cline can be found here: http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/

With 32 oz. of fuel you will get 12 to 18 minutes of air time with a safety margin. Just depends on how much power you use for the duration of the flight; 3-D or more scale like aerobatics. With scale like acro I would imagine that you will get close to 18 minutes since the Yak should weight about 4 pounds less than my Eagle did. Yes, my Eagle was fat, but it was tricked with Nelson scale flying wires, and beefed up here and there. I got 12 minutes of safe flying, but that was being aggressive with the throttle. Also, that time is with a new Moki 2.1, and mileage will improve as the engine wears in. I really like my Moki.

Bob P.,

Thanks for all the information that you have provided. Your positive flight test report is great news, especially since I read the report after getting home with the Yak!

I'm also interested in the replica radial engine for the cowling. Hopefully something on the market will work with this cowling. If that doesn't pan out I can make a plate as I did for my Goldberg Sukhoi ARF.

Mike

MX240

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A few more pic's from my workshop.
I measured 1 1/4" from bottom corner of motor box and cut out with a old hack saw blade that I made a long time ago with balsa handle wraped with black tape...a most useful tool...and cheap.

A thought on the Frank Tiano round engines. Notice they are molded out of "resin". Have a friend that scratch built a 1/4 P-47 and ordered one. He showed it to me and it broke easly and was heavy. Just my very "limited" knowledge of this product and I am sure lots are in use.

Hajduk

Bob, congratulation on your successful completion of this project. I followed your thread from the fist post. And thank you for the time you spent on this thread letting us know about your experience with CG Yak 54.

I am also planning to fly a Yak 54 next summer. I still don’t know which one I will buy, however, the CG and GreatPlanes Yak’s are the most serious candidates.

Balsa Steel

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Oops! I missed that post!

Bob, will that Brison have adequate "punch out" authority from a hover when it's broken in? I'm not looking for a 3D monster, but I'm new to gassers and highly under-educated so pardon the ignorance. Where is the best place to look for a Brison?

Bob Pastorello

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Hajduk, and others !!! - THANK YOU for the nice comments; it has been fun throwing this one together, and hopefully some things have been discovered to make it easier for others.

I can tell you this - it really did fly VERY well - lighter, with a suitable glow motor, it will be even MORE of a performer..... I'm just not doing glow anymore.

Also - I didn't do a LOT of "full speed" anywhere flying, but the ailerons are solid, and worked well with the one servo, so far. Tomorrow is another day, and there may be "new" lessons in the offing!!

Thanks again for the support, guys! [&:]

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Mike,
I like your picture of the front of your Sukohi that is painted black...looks nice and a thought.
Will fly mine first to see how much I want to "doll" it up.
I think your Moki 2.1 would be GREAT. I have a Moki 1.8 that runs good but after loseing a couple of nice planes with other moki's after a year of flying them I passed on that thought. You are RIGHT to use a Cline fuel system as that big carb needs help. I should have been smart enough. It dosen't take much of a fuel line or carb air leak to make her quit on take-off...about 50' high. []
Would love a flight report someday.
Jim

ExperimentalAviator

My Feedback: (15)

Jim,

If someone doesn't do so before I will report my findings with the Moki 2.1, but it will probably be a month or so before that happens.

Going with a 6 volt setup, four Hitec 5625's on the ailerons and two on the elevators, and a 5945 on the rudder. Rudder servo in the tail end, direct connection.

Mike

AWCFlyr

Thanks for the info on the Moki 2.1 The one I'm using is coming off a GP Extra 300 PW that I had rigged with a TME smkoe system and was just over 15.5lbs. Looks like Tower is getting an order from me today. Everyone has been great with their contributions to their building styles which onle reenforces the ides that I need Santa to deliver a large box to the house.

Happy Holidays to All,

e28m5

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Good job Bob! Can't wait to get mine up there w/ the OS 1.60, but it'll be awhile. I did whip up one of your drilling jigs last night tho, and will give it a go this weekend.

I'm not wild about that GP Yak either. I do however like the looks of the GP Cap. It is interesting that GP went with a scale wingspan/length ratio, about 1.19, whereas our Yak uses shorter wings relative to fuse length. Maybe that explains the blindingly fast rolls...

Bob Pastorello

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Thanks! [&:]

I think the roll rate is more a function of the HUGE area these have, as a proportion of the wing, and the deflection....at any rate, (no pun intended ) the controls are WAY more than I need right now, so I will continue putting around on the low rates. The high rates are DEFINITELY 3D territory.

Let me know how the drill jig works for you! I'd be interested in a pic or two, if you can.

e28m5

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I'll post a pic probably tomorrow - it's almost identical to your pics, but shoddier construction - I really slapped it together fast but it seems like it'll work like charm. It'll save me alot of pondering about how to drill the holes properly.

I have to say that the manual is pretty sparse - I am not the most expeirenced builder to say the least, but I could see how you could really screw things up if you think the instructions tell you all (or even most) you need to know. Then there is the stuff which doesn't even make sense, like finding the hard points in the ailerons which are described as "dowels with holes in middle". Huh? What holes - sounds like they are predrilled which would make no sense. Then they give you a "hint" to drill horn holes from top and bottom - maybe I'm missing something but that sounds ridiculous.

Bob Pastorello

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On the "hard points". On one of the ailerons, to "discover" what was under there, I probed the whole area with a fine needle. It is NOT a hardwood dowel, but a large HARD balsa block (at least on my control surfaces), so the manual is incorrect there. Drilling, then hardening with thin CA is the only approach I use, and on other similar planes it has worked well.

If someone actually FINDS 'hardwood dowel' in their control surfaces, please let us know.

Also - I don't recommend the "drill half way, turn over, drill other half". If you're using backup plate held against the control surface, drill straight thru using the jig you made. There will be very minor tearing of the covering, but the hole will be clean and straight. TO me, on this kind of thing "function" is WAY more important than "form".

One thing about RCU threads - Collectively, we *can* compensate for instructions that are weak. We just have to ask questions and share what we learn along the way.

BTW - mine is balanced nearly exactly on the recommended CG, and although it feels just a "touch" (and I mean just a small amount) nose-heavy, it is a VERY agile CG location. Since it is already pitching on K.E. pretty good, moving the CG aft more will worsen that a LOT - so FWIW - go with the STOCK Center of Gravity.

e28m5

My Feedback: (2)

Well I'll tell you, mine do actually look like dowels, maybe 1 - 1.5" dia - I can see semi-round outlines through the covering.

Ahh - so that's it - they are worried about pushing the covering up from below - big deal! better to have the holes drilled properly as you said - maybe if you drill very carefully you can stop at the covering and then punch through from above, but not a major concern. You have to wonder why they put a "tip" like this in there and totally leave out how you should align the horns

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

The 1.5" dia outline, I *think* is the HARD balsa area. Would you probe yours to find out if it's hardwood? Mine weren't. (In case you're curious, I use a VERY fine short sewing needle in my small hemostats to probe this kind of stuff. Holes in covering are so small as to be nearly invisible after ca'ing, and reheating.)

I agree - they kissed the pooch recommending DUAL aileron servos ** without ** detailing how to get the control horns aligned to make that work. Bad form, IMHO, but at least we have this forum!!!!