Do you need a nosering for the HYDE MOUNT(type A)?
#2
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Pattern freak,
The Type A Hyde, the one that has 4 mounting holes in a square, does not need a nose ring. The Type AR (has 3 mounting holes in a triangle, and one in the middle) does need one. Hope this helps.
The Type A Hyde, the one that has 4 mounting holes in a square, does not need a nose ring. The Type AR (has 3 mounting holes in a triangle, and one in the middle) does need one. Hope this helps.
#3
Senior Member
Yes the Thrust line will change and can change slightly.....The Type "A" mount is stiffer and has a bigger footprint....So it is suppose to allow for minimal thrust line changes. The problem is it will still change....
The best Hyde Mount for the Focus is an ARI mount....
The Lightweight ARI (A)...this gives you the weight of a normal AR nut supports the front bearing of the motor from the firewall....
If you grab a hold of the prop with the motor installed and can move it side to side and up and down...."IT WILL MOVE when running"
The reason is there is an extremely high amount of force applied to the mount from the gyroscopic effects of the prop turning. Pulls will require more right rudder...As in much more...depending on the amount of movement....Pushes will require large amounts of Left rudder and Throttling up and down on horizontal lines will result in YAW and Pitch changes.
How much change well.....depends on the amount of movement....
The Type "A" mounts are really good compared to nothing....But if your going to fly precision with it Use an ARI type in the Focus.....
Just my opinion I have been running Merle's mounts for a really long time.....And the Absolute best setup for weight and for maintaining constant thrust lines is the AR (A) the Aluminum beamed version is the lightweight one and the R is for the fuse mounted nose ring. This keeps everything aligned properly....The motor is not allowed to move at all other than the very little Flex that the airframe has in it.
Troy Newman
The best Hyde Mount for the Focus is an ARI mount....
The Lightweight ARI (A)...this gives you the weight of a normal AR nut supports the front bearing of the motor from the firewall....
If you grab a hold of the prop with the motor installed and can move it side to side and up and down...."IT WILL MOVE when running"
The reason is there is an extremely high amount of force applied to the mount from the gyroscopic effects of the prop turning. Pulls will require more right rudder...As in much more...depending on the amount of movement....Pushes will require large amounts of Left rudder and Throttling up and down on horizontal lines will result in YAW and Pitch changes.
How much change well.....depends on the amount of movement....
The Type "A" mounts are really good compared to nothing....But if your going to fly precision with it Use an ARI type in the Focus.....
Just my opinion I have been running Merle's mounts for a really long time.....And the Absolute best setup for weight and for maintaining constant thrust lines is the AR (A) the Aluminum beamed version is the lightweight one and the R is for the fuse mounted nose ring. This keeps everything aligned properly....The motor is not allowed to move at all other than the very little Flex that the airframe has in it.
Troy Newman
#5
Senior Member
If it is on a Focus...then I would not mount a nose ring in the cowling....I would somehow support it off the firewall....Maybe some beams or something to get the support from the engine box area.
I have never heard of a ARI type of mount failing....They are pretty stout and work well. It is also not very common for fuse mounted nose rings to come loose if they were installed properly....I have never had one come loose. I just use a piece of 1/8" ply as a "former" in the nose of a glass or composite fuse...The inside of this former is hogged out to give weight savings and the nose ring is mounted to the former using 2 screws and some blind nuts on the back side.
But you're running it in a Focus the Glass cowling is not strong enough to support it. You need to come up with another solution....or use an ARI mount.....
You might try it with the "A" mount and see how much it moves....
Troy
I have never heard of a ARI type of mount failing....They are pretty stout and work well. It is also not very common for fuse mounted nose rings to come loose if they were installed properly....I have never had one come loose. I just use a piece of 1/8" ply as a "former" in the nose of a glass or composite fuse...The inside of this former is hogged out to give weight savings and the nose ring is mounted to the former using 2 screws and some blind nuts on the back side.
But you're running it in a Focus the Glass cowling is not strong enough to support it. You need to come up with another solution....or use an ARI mount.....
You might try it with the "A" mount and see how much it moves....
Troy
#7
Senior Member
I am putting the A mount without a nose ring on the Funtana. The reason that I was advised against the ARI was that all the forces from the engine moving, are brought onto one point on the firewall. That means you would need to add strength to it, although I don't know if it would be necessary on the Focus.
Just my 2C!
Robert.
Just my 2C!
Robert.
#8
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From: Chapel Hill, NC
We've done a lot of testing. The ARI mounts are too flexible in the rear (even with the integrated nose ring) and give us fits trying to pull consistent radius on heading. They also do allow the plane to recover quickly back to line after snaps.
Though there is some weight penalty we're getting good results with the "A" (no nose ring). It isn't pretty but it works.
Though there is some weight penalty we're getting good results with the "A" (no nose ring). It isn't pretty but it works.




