Hello all,
I recieved my Hydaway last week and want to start building.
the plane came with the wings and stab finished(ready to cover)
This is my first kit of this kind and need some help.
I have one problem there is no refference line on the fuse for the stab location I e-mailed ZN and JP told me it should be 57mm from the bottom of the fuse I guess the guy knows what he is talking about, but if anny of you have this plane could you please confirm this.
Also what would be my refference to messure wing and stab incidence, Would it be from the center of the nose to 57mm from the bottom at the back of the fuse.
Also I did not get a stab tube socket for the fuse in the kit but it shows one on the plans, I also mailed him about this and he told me that they don't use a socket in the fuse.
I'm no pro but it doesn't seem right to me. If I don't use a socket how would I secure the tube.
And one last question, I have carbon fiber wing and stab tubes, how do I secure wings and stab. Can I just drill an tap carbon fiber
maybe glue a dowel inside the tube to get more thread?
Sorry for the long post, maybe some of the questions are stupid but as I said this is the first time I'm building a kit like this.

Thanks,

John

John,
First on the stab location. Measure vertically from the bottom rear 57mm up. That's the stab tube height. Then 45mm forwards along that line from the tail post for the other measurement.

NOTE: The next measurement (shown on the plan) reads 110mm from the stab tube center to the stab incidence locking pin. THE PLAN IS WRONG HERE. The correct measurement is 100mm. This is easy to see if you measure the distance on the stab itself.

Thrust line, or zero incidence line, is registered parallel to the canopy seat. It gets no easier than that!!!

As far as the stab tube mounting, we do not use sockets, however, if you would like to use a socket, we will send you a piece of the Gator R/C material sized for the stab tube. However, here is our method if you should wish to use it.

Make your holes for the stab tube and incidence pin. Accuracy is important here. (Your wing should be mounted in place for alignment). Place the tube and pin into the fuselage, slide on the stabs and adjust your holes as necessary to achieve a perfect alignment between wing and stab. When satisfied, remove the stabs. Now, using the stab tube and pin as guides, locate the balsa fin stiffener. Give a millimeter or two of clearence between the tube and the stiffener and the same with the pin. Tack the balsa peice into place and then glue it in permanently with epoxy and microballoon mix. You can install the forward vertical stiffener too at the same time. You should now have your holes cut and balsa plates installed, and now you can create your perfectly fitting socket. Wax up your carbon tube (real good wax job for you want it to release from the epoxy unless you want a permanent insallation, a good idea if you will not need to pack your airplane for traveling). Set up your tube and pin and stabs again with perfect aligment leaving the stabs about a millimeter of clearence between their roots and the fuselage so you don't get them glued onto the tube or fuselage from epoxy seepage. Now, mix up a generous amount of epoxy (2 hour stuff; you will need some time here) with some microballoon and milled fiberglass. This should be a no drip, mayonaisse consistency mixture. Starting with the pin, work this mixture all around the waxed pin. What you are doing is molding an epoxy/glass/microballoon tube around the pin and stab tube that will be absolutely the best fitting, longest lasting, most accurate method possible. Once the pin is encased do the same to the tube. You do not have to make it really pretty (mine alway looks lumpy and stringy), just make sure that the entire tube and pin are well encased in the mixture and that your stab is in perfect alignment (check, check, recheck, and check again) with the wing until it all dries. Leave it alone for a solid 24 hours. If you opted for a permanent wing tube, then you are done. If you waxed it, then twist and twist until it breaks free, remove it and the pin and admire the perfect fuselage sockets you have made. Now you can adjust your incidence adjusters for perfect incidence.

In actuality, this is much more difficult to describe than to do. Please feel free to ask any questions. JP will help you as much as you need, but please understand that his English is limited. That's what I'm here for.

Sincerely,
Mark Novack

Before gluing in the vertical fin stiffener, check if the pin is accesible for the gluing. I'm not looking at the plan and I can't remember precisely right now. Some airplanes have the pin forward of this piece, others behind.

OK, on the carbon wing tube set screws, a dowel inserted and glued with epoxy or CA for your screw is a good idea. It will also help keep from splitting the tube while drilling your hole.

Mark

Thanks Mark,
This helps me out allot, I guess the problem I had with JP's instructions is a language thing, and he has been very helpful.
Again thanks for your help. If I run into any more questions I will post them.


NJS