John,
First on the stab location. Measure vertically from the bottom rear 57mm up. That's the stab tube height. Then 45mm forwards along that line from the tail post for the other measurement.

NOTE: The next measurement (shown on the plan) reads 110mm from the stab tube center to the stab incidence locking pin. THE PLAN IS WRONG HERE. The correct measurement is 100mm. This is easy to see if you measure the distance on the stab itself.

Thrust line, or zero incidence line, is registered parallel to the canopy seat. It gets no easier than that!!!

As far as the stab tube mounting, we do not use sockets, however, if you would like to use a socket, we will send you a piece of the Gator R/C material sized for the stab tube. However, here is our method if you should wish to use it.

Make your holes for the stab tube and incidence pin. Accuracy is important here. (Your wing should be mounted in place for alignment). Place the tube and pin into the fuselage, slide on the stabs and adjust your holes as necessary to achieve a perfect alignment between wing and stab. When satisfied, remove the stabs. Now, using the stab tube and pin as guides, locate the balsa fin stiffener. Give a millimeter or two of clearence between the tube and the stiffener and the same with the pin. Tack the balsa peice into place and then glue it in permanently with epoxy and microballoon mix. You can install the forward vertical stiffener too at the same time. You should now have your holes cut and balsa plates installed, and now you can create your perfectly fitting socket. Wax up your carbon tube (real good wax job for you want it to release from the epoxy unless you want a permanent insallation, a good idea if you will not need to pack your airplane for traveling). Set up your tube and pin and stabs again with perfect aligment leaving the stabs about a millimeter of clearence between their roots and the fuselage so you don't get them glued onto the tube or fuselage from epoxy seepage. Now, mix up a generous amount of epoxy (2 hour stuff; you will need some time here) with some microballoon and milled fiberglass. This should be a no drip, mayonaisse consistency mixture. Starting with the pin, work this mixture all around the waxed pin. What you are doing is molding an epoxy/glass/microballoon tube around the pin and stab tube that will be absolutely the best fitting, longest lasting, most accurate method possible. Once the pin is encased do the same to the tube. You do not have to make it really pretty (mine alway looks lumpy and stringy), just make sure that the entire tube and pin are well encased in the mixture and that your stab is in perfect alignment (check, check, recheck, and check again) with the wing until it all dries. Leave it alone for a solid 24 hours. If you opted for a permanent wing tube, then you are done. If you waxed it, then twist and twist until it breaks free, remove it and the pin and admire the perfect fuselage sockets you have made. Now you can adjust your incidence adjusters for perfect incidence.

In actuality, this is much more difficult to describe than to do. Please feel free to ask any questions. JP will help you as much as you need, but please understand that his English is limited. That's what I'm here for.

Sincerely,
Mark Novack