I just got a UCD 60 and will be starting to builld it very soon. I've read through quite a bit of the 120 page UCD 60 post but I thought it would be very helpful (to me and others) to put together just tips on building this airplane. Any suggested alterations to ease building and make a better flyer would be very helpful. For instance, I'm not sure if I like the CA hinges that come with the kit (ARF). Have there been problems using these? Any alternatives?

Any suggested modifications?

Any pitfalls to avoid?

What servos to use. I have already bought a Futaba S3305 (hi torque, metal geared) servo for the rudder. I have heard some comments about only using the digital servos (very expensive!), or can standard ones be used as long as the torque rating is high enough (manual suggests 90 oz-in for the rudder and 50+ for everything else).

It appears that this plane is very popular and using this post to collect building tips could be extremely helpful (definitely to me and hopefully to others).

Thanks

Tony

ok Tony, ill start by saying you hit one of my probs with the plane, and it really not the plane but the hinges, i had some problems with ca hinges and never went back to them since( i know they work good for some) but i now always use dubro pinned hinges and with 30 min epoxy they will rip the wing off before they fail

just my 5 cents

ps also beef up the gear!!

good luck!!

the landing gear definately needs some attention in the strength department.
hinges, i would suggest the robart hingpoints, or something like that. I dont like CA hinges on any of my 3D models. too risky for me.
as far as servos go, I have hitec high torque metal gear for the rudder, and the karbonite gear high torquers for the rest of the controls. the seem to work just fine.
What are you using for power??

I too would be very interested in hearing other pilot's tips for building this beautiful plane. I am a ROOKIE and not familiar with building RC planes. An experienced builder will help me with the UCD, but it would be super to hear you guys's experience on building and improvements on building.

I plan on installing an OS 91 FX. Quite a bit more power than the 4 stroke and much cheaper.

3D_Tony...

The OS will be a good fit for the UCD. Use a APC 15x6 prop. Sometimes 2 strokes mounted inverted will cause a bit of a problem. So be prepared to address that. I've never tried the 2 stroke inverted so I'm not much help with that. Some use a hotter glow plug. I will have to address the issue myself as I'm building a Giant with the OS160FX inverted.

I personally wouldn't use the CA hinges. I had several break on one of mine. Lately I've built the UCD with Dubro pinned hinges and 30 minute epoxy. Same as gjeffers.

If you can fly smooth and land smooth I wouldn't worry about the gear. It's an easy fix if it breaks. But obviously it is light in that area. The last two I've built I didn't reinforce the landing gear and never had a problem with it breaking. I've just gotten the hang of landing these and rarely have a hard landing. And it lands easy so that's not really that big of a deal.

Some have problems with flooding because the fuel tank is higher than the carb. Maybe that's not a problem with the 2 stroke but it is with the Saitos. 2nd best solution is to loop the intake line all the way to the top of the cowl. Best solution is to put a YS110 in the airplane. That solves a multitude of problems.

My guess is you'll tend to be a little nose heavy with that heavy 2 stroke up front. You'll want to build with that in mind. I had to put my battery 14-16 inches in the fuse towards the tail. I cut a hatch area and glued the battery back there. Make sure you glue it good because with the whip and thrust this baby produces you want to keep it from breaking loose.

Don't even install the stock tail wheel. Get a replacement. Best one is from Sig. Use the same one that comes on the Mayhem. Another place is Chief Aircraft. They offer a carbon fiber version but the Sig is better, and lighter. I just posted some pictures of mine on the long thread. Just a couple of days ago.

Make certain you use metal gear servos. I've had several nylon gear servos break the gears. Use digitals if you can. It's a great way to peak the performance of the plane. I use HiTech HS5645 on the rudder, HS5625 on the elevators, and HS645 on the ailerons. I use a mini HS85MG on the throttle. I upgraded to this over several UCDs. It's worth the effort and money. The 5646s are about $42 each when you get them from Donald's Hobbies.

Don't put the wheel pants on. They are extra weight and won't stay on and if your landing gear fails, they will tear up your wing.

Cut your cowl WIDE OPEN. Make sure you get enough air out. I cut the whole bottom out of mine. I cut the width of the channel and the length of the cowl. My early UCDs overheated while hovering and when I cut the cowl, the problem went away. Cut it wide open.

If you want some good pictures of all that go over to the UCD46 thread. That's the best place to get info on the UCDs. All of them. And the people are nice and informative. They'll answer any question. Accurately and fast. And all the pictures are there already. Nice place to visit. Might even hear some info on a Pitts Monster, Mayhem, Showtime or other plane and how they compare to the famous UCD.

Other than these things...the best thing to do is FLY SLOW. It will not tolerate speed. But what fun it can be.


Thanks
Barry

Here's the tailwheel link.

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...07/Vt56854.jpg

Thanks,
Barry

Another tip.

Go with carbon fiber pushrods. The stock pushrods are too small. They are 2/56. A bare minimum would be 4/40 stuff. But if you go with carbon fiber you can use the 2/56 hardware as they will be stiff enough. The best place to get them is Central Hobbies.

You can see mine in the picture above.

The stock pushrods will not let you get the performance you expect with this plane.

Thanks
Barry

Barry is right about the tail wheel and push rods.The landing gear is a weak point but the plane lands so easy realy no problem easy fix.I used the ca hinges and did'nt have any trouble with them but remember what the manual said (slow flyer)fly only around half throttle unless pulling out a manuver.The os 91 had enough power to hover and it recovered nice,but if i build another i will put the 108 in it...most part enjoy....great plane got to get another one......HAVE FUN

Great tips Barry Cazier.
I am too in the process of building U can do 3D 60 with OS 90 FSII engine.

Ok I am not going to steal this thread from the original poster, so I will just sit back and shut up

Pictures of cowl cut out. Do it. If you don't, you'll overheat in warm weather while hovering. Not a good thing.

Thanks
Barry

I have most of my UCD together.

I bought a Tru Turn spinner and the recommended adapter nut. It seems that there is going to be a problem with the length of the propellor shaft. With the prop, spinner back plate, nut, and adapter it appears that there is not enough room to fit the spinner. I thought I saw somewhere that someone recommended cutting off the propellor shaft (shorter). I hope that I do not have to do this!

Has anyone else used this spinner / prop / engine combination? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Also, thanks to everyone for their tips. Any other building or setup tips would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tony

Update: 5/19/06
I was able to fit the spinner without cutting off the motor output shaft! I used the standard nut that came with the motor. The motor also comes with a jamb nut which I replaced with the spinner adapter. I only had to cut off about 1/8" off of the 10-32 side of the spinner adapter. Fits great now.