mojo setup
#1
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From: Avon Lake,
OH
I gonna get a mojo 40 arf from BHRC but want to know what i need for a setup. What type of Futaba servos should I get, digital or standard bb's. Do I need a mini or micro reciver, or would standard be all right. I'll get a micro servo for the throttle. Should I get an O.S. .55 AX, Saito .72, Saito .82, or O.S. .46 AX. I got a .46 AX on my Ultra Stick but still wan't to fly it. Should I get a new motor for the US or MOJO. If this is confusing please ask me to clarify.
Thanks a lot in advance
johnny boy
Thanks a lot in advance
johnny boy
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From: Tokoroa, , NEW ZEALAND
You've asked a lot of questions there!
The fact is that it depends on many different factors.
Are you just getting into 3D or are you a hard-core, experienced 3D flier?
If the former then you probably want a nice reliable 2-stroke (they will deliver power a bit more smoothly and also cost less to fix if/when you bury then in the dirt or tarmac). The TT46Pro, OS46FX/AX or just about any other reliable, 46-52-sized engine with good throttle response will do it.
As for servos, there's nothing wrong with standard S300? servos in a Mojo for entry-level 3D flying. They're strong enough and cheap. I've also used a standard servo for throttle on most of my 40-sized profiles -- because they're cheaper than a good mini servo and a micro (9g or smaller) will probably not take the vibes for too long.
Just about any full-range receiver will work and the difference between the biggest and smallest these days is seldom more than an ounce or so -- so don't sweat it, use what you have.
If you're already an experienced 3Der who really wants to wring this bird out then you will almost certainly want a grunty 4-stroke and the SA82 is one of the best. be aware though that the vibration level will possible go up a lot when you nail that bit of metal to the front of a light airframe like a Mojo.
As for servos -- it won't hurt to use a metal-geared servo on rudder and opt for (at least) something like 70oz-in torque on all surfaces. If you're a Futaba man then the S3010s are plenty strong and fast enough -- but they're a bit sloppy for my liking. You'll also want to run a 5-cell battery pack. One of the 1400mAH 2/3A packs from RadicalRC will do the job and only weigh 4oz.
My Mojo 60 is my "hard out" 3D machine and I've got Hitec HS5925 metal-geared coreless digitals on the tail, Futaba S3010s on the ailerons, a Saito 100 on the nose and a *tiny* Berg 7P receiver in the wing.
My throw-around fun profile however, has cheap $9 bushed standard servos (again from Radical RC), a Polk Seeker 6 synthesized receiver and a TT46Pro with Tower muffler up front. It's still a *lot* of fun and, because it's not loaded up with lots of expensive engine and RC bling, I tend to take bigger risks with it than with the hi-spec'd Mojo.
The fact is that it depends on many different factors.
Are you just getting into 3D or are you a hard-core, experienced 3D flier?
If the former then you probably want a nice reliable 2-stroke (they will deliver power a bit more smoothly and also cost less to fix if/when you bury then in the dirt or tarmac). The TT46Pro, OS46FX/AX or just about any other reliable, 46-52-sized engine with good throttle response will do it.
As for servos, there's nothing wrong with standard S300? servos in a Mojo for entry-level 3D flying. They're strong enough and cheap. I've also used a standard servo for throttle on most of my 40-sized profiles -- because they're cheaper than a good mini servo and a micro (9g or smaller) will probably not take the vibes for too long.
Just about any full-range receiver will work and the difference between the biggest and smallest these days is seldom more than an ounce or so -- so don't sweat it, use what you have.
If you're already an experienced 3Der who really wants to wring this bird out then you will almost certainly want a grunty 4-stroke and the SA82 is one of the best. be aware though that the vibration level will possible go up a lot when you nail that bit of metal to the front of a light airframe like a Mojo.
As for servos -- it won't hurt to use a metal-geared servo on rudder and opt for (at least) something like 70oz-in torque on all surfaces. If you're a Futaba man then the S3010s are plenty strong and fast enough -- but they're a bit sloppy for my liking. You'll also want to run a 5-cell battery pack. One of the 1400mAH 2/3A packs from RadicalRC will do the job and only weigh 4oz.
My Mojo 60 is my "hard out" 3D machine and I've got Hitec HS5925 metal-geared coreless digitals on the tail, Futaba S3010s on the ailerons, a Saito 100 on the nose and a *tiny* Berg 7P receiver in the wing.
My throw-around fun profile however, has cheap $9 bushed standard servos (again from Radical RC), a Polk Seeker 6 synthesized receiver and a TT46Pro with Tower muffler up front. It's still a *lot* of fun and, because it's not loaded up with lots of expensive engine and RC bling, I tend to take bigger risks with it than with the hi-spec'd Mojo.
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From: berlin hts,
OH
if you are going out to buy a new engine,i had a webra 50,saito 72, and last a ys 63,the best of the three,fantastic throttle response,makes a rocket out of a mojo.but if you have a good ball bering two stroke, use it it will have plenty of power.
ENJOY!
ENJOY!
#5
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From: Avon Lake,
OH
Well, I am a beginner 3der but, I learn fast. I want something that will last me till I'm an experenced 3d flyer. Then I might get another plane. But, that will be in a lllllooooonnnnggggg time.
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From: Gulf Breeze ,
FL
That new os55ax is gonna be a great engine for a 40 size profile. I think it should give power compairable to the Saito 82. I just got one friday and put four flights on it Sunday. I didn't have the right prop but it hovered my Mojo easly around 1/2 throttle.
$15 coupon & free shipping. I got mine from Tower and I think its a good deal.
$15 coupon & free shipping. I got mine from Tower and I think its a good deal.
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From: Port Washington, WI
I am finishing a build on a Mojo 40 right now. I rebuilt a 8 year old .46FX and plan to put that in it. I am also new to 3D and plan on putting a standard Hitec rx, and stick with their lower end BB servos (325 probably). I'll probably still put a 5 cell pack just to squeeze some more torque out of them. I think they should be adequete for an entry level 3d flyer.
[link=http://the******************.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11687]ProBro thread talking about mojo setup[/link]
[link=http://the******************.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11687]ProBro thread talking about mojo setup[/link]
#8
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I am flying a Mojo with std servos, std rcvr, 4 cell. I have flown it with an OS 46 and now an OS 50. Ihave a Burrito with the same setup and and currently a YS63. They all work fine for 3d with the YS obviously the most powerful. I recommend a .46 2stroke for your Mojo. I find a well tuned, smoothly operating engine with reliable transition makes 3d learning go well. A finicky , stumbling engine with gobs of power isn't so good.
#9
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From: Merced, Ca.,
CA
Started my mojo out with a webra 50, one of the recommended engines, but it ingested a washer and froze up. Yanked a YS 63 out of another airframe. Like the YS so much better than the 2 stroke, but I am one of those guys that put-put around. Love the mojo, it seems happy at any attitude without wanting to snap or do something not asked of it. Something like the QQ Yak 54, but better!!! At the time of buildilng, I only had small electric servos and a bunch of JR digital 200+ oz puppys. Awsome combo, hovers at about 1/3 throttle and goes and stays where you point it. You will enjoy regardless of engine and servos, need good centerilng servos or it will drive you nuts. ENJOY
#11
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I think the ideal Setup on the Mojo-40 is: SA-.82 (or similar 4 stroke) for that instant punch-out (thrust) that a 2 stroke cannot match. Durable fast servos @ >50oz, a 6 volt battery for added servo speed & torque, and most ipmortaint very good linkages and setup (Carbon fiber push rods, ball joints, good control arms with thin CA hardened balsa where the control horns are placed, or build reinforcment around the horn.) If you fly the mojo the way it was intended you will be "touching" all of the control serfaces on the ground on a regular basis. Standard 4-40 rod, 40 size horns, and clevisis will not last or will become sloppy in a hurry.



