SportFlyer3

Looks good Super 08!!!

Now order a carbon fiber wing tube from TBM and instantly drop 9 oz with no re-balance to do...

obriendigital

My Feedback: (13)

I need a carbon tube too, what size fits best?

Thanks!

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

JAE.875x30 (F101A) $19.99

Bdegan

Doug,
Looks fantastic [8D] That little display table of yours is becoming a common fixture around here
I love the your reference pressure cannister, I know where you got it
All you need to do is put a small NOs sticker on it [X(]

I will order a carbon wing tube one point this winter. Thanks for the part #

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Funny most of the pics I post are taken in the crappest room in the house. It is just a spare room downstairs that we don't use for anything. The dogs hang out there lots, but that is about it. It is however the only room down there that is large enough for me to put the wings on them without bringing them upstairs to the livingroom.

Tonman

Yes first gasser, DLE 55 on the Reactor, the throttle spring seems tight, would seem to cause excessive battery drain and the need for a stronger servo, do you un hook the spring?

Bdegan

You can unhook it from the throttle arm and let unwind one turn and re hook it. Try that, If it still feels to tight do it again.

Just don't remove it completely. The throttle butterfly and shaft would have excessive side to side play if removed completely, causing premature wear inside the carb throat.

dobro

My Feedback: (3)

Hi guys, Thought I'd jump back in here for an update. I'm about 97% complete on my build. Here are a few pics of th Reactor with a MOki 2.10 set-up with a J-tec muffler and a perry pump. This used to be in a 1/5th scale mustang. Knowing the 2.10 was heavier than the 1.60, I used this set-up to accomplish CG without adding weight. I set the batteries back in the fuse. It's a back-up set up with 2 jr 2300 Mah batteries with 2 JR Charge Switches. Right close in front of the batteries is a quick release set up for the canopy. I'm using a carbon fiber wing tube , & carbon fiber push rods with titanium ends. I also cut out some of the canopy floor and covered it with clear monocote to allow a view of the tank and receiver. I also used a 2 line fuel set up that is very handy for fueling and gives a view also of the fuel filters. Many of the pattern flyers use this set-up. Right now I'm at exactly 16 lb and CG is right on. I'm not planning on 3D right now but may add the 1.5" servo arms later. May pick up carbon fiber landing gear and wheel pants at Toledo this year. Thanks for all the info in this forum. Greatly appreciated.

coronabob

My Feedback: (10)

I have a DA50 w/DLE muffler, TBM wing tube and AUW of 15lbs 4oz. The 7/8" wing tube required sanding with a dowel to enlarge tunnels in fuse and both wings - a good bit of sanding.

I have made a recent discovery that my buddy, who assembled the bird for me, glued the horz stab on crooked. The right side stab is 1" lower at the tip compared to the left.

I need suggestions on how to cut out or remove the horz stab. So far I have been told to heat up the epoxy and use debonder on CA to unglue the stab. I bought a Japanese pull saw last night. I plan to razor saw it off. Other ideas please!

go vertical

My Feedback: (1)

coronabob

FIRE YOUR BUDDY

dobro

My Feedback: (3)

I had to make a much smaller adjustment on mine. I used a long flexible razor knife that flexed enough to stay flat and worked it loose that way, Laid it on the stab and slowly worked at cutting it free that way. Be very careful the blade stays flat or it will easily cut into the center of the stab. There were concerns of the small surface that the stab glued to. I actually glued a couple of small pieces of triangular stock inside the fuse on the stab. You can access this through the servo opening. It worked very well and should give it extra support. I'm no expert but just a few thoughts. Good luck

coronabob

My Feedback: (10)

dobro,

Thank you for your input. Where did you get the razor knife? or did you fashion one. Great idea about accessing thru the servo opening. I had thought about cutting out an access panel.

My problem is that as soon as my Reactor showed up, I took it over to my buddy's. I inspected everything but do not remember how the fuse inside was constructed to accept the stab. Do you recall how the inside was constructed?

I went to watch a Reactor 160 whose owner had a DLE50 on it. He placed his in knife edge and it stayed there, hands off! I bought mine for this reason. Unfortunately, mine does not track in loops, and pulls in knife edge towards the gear on one side and towards the canopy on the other. The crooked stab really spoils it for me.

SportFlyer3

Hey coronabob, where did you see the 160 Reactor you speak of??? It wouldn't have been at Fort Bend last year at the Turkey Shoot would it??? If it was it was me and I definitely had to work at flying knife edge with mine and it tries to tuck just like you say...roll left and add right and it tucks to the gear and vice versa...

One good thing is that the plane has enough wing area to be a kite !!! I don't know if you were there and looked up and saw it just sitting there inverted for some time, and I believe that was almost hands off, but that impressed alot of folks as I could overhear some of the comments. Also the DLE 55 was running WAY rich that day. I have since tuned it and the plane really came alive...very fun to fly and alot more forgiving than my brother's H9 Cap...

Keep at it and good luck...

Zed

dobro

My Feedback: (3)

I took a pic for you of how I did it. As you can see it's just a small exacto knife with a thin 1" blade. I did put a piece of blue 3m painters tape on the stab first to protect it. I kept enough pressure on it to bend the blade and was able to very slowly cut it loose. Be sure and remember the glue is much harder than the balsa so the blade will want to go to the path of least resistance. Sounds like electricity. Reading back through this forum I agree with others that GP should of had a tube set-up for the stab. Once you pull the servo out you will see that there is only a thin wall on each side of the fuse where the stab glues to. You will want to beef it up. The book says that if your stab is out when glueing you can add weight to level it as it dries. That's what I did and it did not work. I cut mine loose and sanded the surface to level it up. It's been single digit temps here in Ohio and I don't plan on the maiden till spring. If you happen to cut into the center of the stab, You can easily fix it. Good luck

dobro

My Feedback: (3)

Hey there sportFlyer3, What was the final weight of your reactor?

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

On mine I sheeted the inside of the stab saddle in the fuselage. It is impossible for it to pull out as it sits flush with the edge of the saddle and it then give the stab a huge glueing area to hold it. The only way mine will come off is to rip off the whole tail of the fuselage.

SportFlyer3

Mine came in at 17lbs even when first built with an Area 51 engine...then I dropped the stock tube for the TBM carbon tube and came in at 16lbs 4oz...I re-powered with a DLE 55 and have not reweighed it. I have dual batts and redundant switches and a matchbox for the elevator, also 7oz of ballast in the tail...

Tonman

Super08, I noticed in your pictures you had looped the over-fill gas line (extra-Length) is there a particular reason? sorry I am new at gas.

SportFlyer3

Keeps the fuel from spilling out on a downline or when the tail is lifted up on the ground...

dobro

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks SportFlyer3, I'm running the dual 6v batteries and switches also. I still might go to carbon fiber landing gear and wheel pants. Really looking forward to flying this plane. If I remember right, the Moki 2.10 with a 20x8 prop has 24 lb of thrust. I'm running JR MG 126 servos on the ailerons. Just y'd them. No matchbox. Happy flyin to ya.

SportFlyer3

Has anyone had problems with their nyrod on the throttle changing the idle when the temp changes ??? When it's cold out I have one setting and when it's warmer I have to re-trim to another setting for idle...like actually going into the radio and changing the endpoint adjustment...

I've heard of someone saying they've had problems before with gold-n-rods (nyrods) on throttle and now it seems like I'm starting to have that problem also (weather is cold one weekend and hot the next)...On my 100cc twin I use a metal rod and haven't encountered this problem, also on my brothers 50cc he has not had this problem but he uses a metal throttle rod also...

coronabob

My Feedback: (10)

Thank you very much, dobro. I appreciate you. It's good news that all I have to do is separate the stab from the thin saddle walls. That's what my buddy told me, too.

Sportflyer,

I went to watch an RCU member by the name of Nachosalad fly his Reactor at his ranch in Alvin. His really flew knife edge hands off. I needed another plane like I needed a hole in my head, but was so impressed that I went ahead with it.

I lightened mine by shortening up the cowl by 3/4" and replacing the wing tube w/one from TBM. With a DA50 as close to the firewall as posslble and everything else moved way back, mine is still nose heavy. Its AUW is 15lbs 3oz. It takes off like rocket. I hope that after the stab reset that mine will do hands off knife edge.

SportFlyer3

Ok...when you say hands off I'm assuming he just rolled it and held rudder to keep it level correct ??? He probably mixed out the coupling with his radio and that's why it flew like that. Just spend some time flight trimming it and it will be the same with trimming and mixing following the Peter Goldsmith trimming guide...also I'm assuming that this was done at speed and not slow and high alpha...

SportFlyer3

Ok I just changed to a 2-56 or 4-40 (can't remember but it accepted the ball link that I had on the throttle) metal rod for throttle...Hope it doesn't give me problems with interference...will fly tomorrow and hopefully report back...

coronabob

My Feedback: (10)

No, I meant total hands off. No holding of the rudder which means no mixing. He flew it med speed at hi alpha, wings vertical, then held the transmitter up in one hand by its corner. It went the entire length of the field.