hey guys....i have a u can do 60 with the dual elevator servos and i need to have help setting these things up on my futaba 7cap tx. this thing is going to be the end of me for sure. i'm pulling my hair out over here...please help!

I'm pretty sure that one elevator servo plugs into your elevator channel and the other into the gear channel (like for retracts) then you inhibit the gear channel and it should work.

This is the way I do it. Very simple to install and adjust.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANF2

i guess i'll have to mess around with it. i have them working but i dont get very much throw, thats the issue and i've played with end points and sub trims. it's driving me crazy. flat spins are almost impossible with the amount of throw that i've got. kind of a bummer

nice gadget jezmo. they work pretty good do they? i may have to go that route if i cant get this thing figured out. there's gotta be a way. the channel 2 servo gets huge amounts of throw while the other side is al messed up. it's nuts!

this setup is making me crazy.

this is taken from futaba's website
Radio System FAQ
I am using a mix for Dual Elevator, but cannot figure out how to trim out my left elevator. If I use the trim button, it will of course trim my right elevator, but I get nothing from the left one. Is there some way around this?
Unfortunately, no, there is no way to set this up. While based in looks and style on the 9C it does not have all of capabilities of the 9C. To be able to trim your second elevator servo, we would suggest first that you of course do this by hand at the control surface, but if you still need to do a little more trimming you may of course go into your Subtrim menu to make further adjustments. But if you are wanting to trim in flight, you will need to purchase a Synchronizer.

yeah, i was afraid of this. oh well, guess i'll have to pick up a syncro. it's always something . thanks for the help everyone.

If you are going to buy a servo reverser, I would suggest you look at the EDR-106 Servo Reverser.
This type of reverser is much better than the Futaba. There is no adjustment screw to mess with, because the circuitry stays stable at all temperatures.

Here is the web site.....they make some good stuff. You would want the Pro Servo Reverser Y for split elevators.

http://electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-106/106faq.shtml
http://electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-106/index.shtml

Greg

bobrev06x:

"OldRookie" is giving you the best direction here considering your equipments lack of function. Even with the best equipment, getting dual elevator servos sincronised can be rough. The usual problem is the horns on the elevator halfs are not located in the exact same location on each side, or the servos are located at different angles or locations. If you wanna fly like the pros, you have to build like the pros. I need every advantage possible, so going to the extreem is usually necessary. I tape my elevator halfs togeather lined up perfectly with edges carefully set at 90%. I then set them in a drill vice and drill one hole throuth both elevator halfs at the same time, identical location. I use a single through bolt and nut as the elevator horns. Your drill press must also be set with everything at 90% on the drill plate. Harden the location with thin CA at each side of the elevator. I place the fuse in a home made "Crutch" that holds the airframe in the same location and also self alligns the wing and elevator in place. Simple to make from 12" particleboard shelving, locating clamps on each side of a cutout that will allow the airframe to sit down into the crutch about halfway. A good grade of house door foam insulation tape along the sides will keep your model safe from rash. I use a "smart level" to level the crutch on my workbench, in this way, the airplace can be set up the the datum line set 0-0 to the crutch. Easy way is to use a "Robert's" type incline meeter on the wing and set the wing cord at 0 on the crutch, then airframe is set up 0 in relation to the wing, elevator and engine thrust line. A decent smart level is good for one tenth of one degree, so you can get things very close. Note that some pattern plane setups will call for 1/2 of 1 degree inclination in the wing, elevator or some other accurate very difficult allignment variation from 0. This seperates the novice builders from the so called experts.

Once you think you have things set up perfectly, you can verrify the elevator throws being equal by holding the elevator at full up, taking a lazer pointer, lay on one half and project the line to a nearby wall, use a stickie note pad and place a X on the wall. Go to the other side with the lazer, lay on the elevator in the same location and see how close that side is to the wall X. Yes, there are clamp on meeters that will do the same thing, just not nearly as accurate. The singe bolt elevator horn will allow you to adjust the throw by screwing the horn up or down and getting the overall throws very close.

Now, if you have something like a JR 10-X, you can adjust minor problems out of the system by using the ATV end points, and sub-trim, and best of all, the servo speeds. Yes, I thing the Fatuba 12 will also do the same thing at twice the price.

Know a picture is worth a bunch, just do not have the ability at the moment. Picture taking a cardboard box 16" wide X 12" deep X 36" long or dimensions as needed and then cutting a hole in each end to fit the fuse width. at the front and rear of the wing. The wing will set on the top of the box equally, if you extend the box to the elevator length, you have a automatic set elevator from the top edge of the box. Whatever system you come up with, its worthless unless you can hold the airframe in the same location while you are working on it.

Hope this helps and gets you thinking 000% with all your birds.

sweet rmenke. thats a ton of info. this plane is just a u can do 60 from great planes. it's just something to throw around and see if i can break a surface off now and then...lol. so far she's staying together for me. i've only got like twenty flights on it and have been going pretty easy so far . i've been snap rolling her quite a bit lately though (throttle off) and it's a riot to watch. this thing is pretty big. i'm getting ready to try some inverted flat spins to see if it'll do it without exploding in mid air. i've been practicing on the flight sim and can do it pretty easily with the yak 54. man, that downline full left aileron move to get the thing wound up is pretty radical...i hope the thing doesnt evaporate on me...jeeez! shouldnt have to rotate too many times to get it to do what i want anyways but we'll see.

i've got a 90 scale cmpro extra 330s coming and will take a close look at the alignment of the wing and stab before i finalize anything on it to make sure things are where they're supposed to be. i like your idea of the lazer allignment technique. sounds pretty cool. i might have to try that one when i'm putting it together. a fellow at our field flies a 300 (58 inch span) and it acts like it's on rails. his is sort of nose heavy too and it still flies straight and true. cant wait to get this one and start practicing the basic sequence. someday, i'd like to hook up with the imac boys and see how i can do. those guys are awesome! do you fly imac?

hey thanks again for the info. i have to go check the potatoes on the grill ( off topic ) . happy flying

Bob:

Have been flying something since 1949 which makes me a little older than dirt. Ever wonder why someone else's airplane flys so much better thay yours. You can call it luck setup until you fly someone airplane like Chip Hyde. I had his double vision set up per specs and had the chance to fly Chips at a local event. Night and day. Most of it was in the radio setup. He was using a JR 10X, same as me, was good enough to send me a CD of his settings which I installed in mine. Setup was so complex it took me months to semi-figure the thing out, but wow. One of the reasons why you really have to work to compete with todays pros. I work at just being a decet pilot, but the bird has got to fly correctly to do things like rolling circles, or elevator to a landing sort of stuff. A pilot like Chip can make a piece of junk look good. Us normal folk had better start with something good. ENJOY

The servo reverser works well no problems at all with them and i have three flying right now. I did not have to adjust anything other than normal adjusting that has to be done. Centering the servos then use your end point adj. and there your go. Very easy plugs in just as a Y harness does and it plugs into your elev. plug on your reciever. They are great little devisces and are so much easier than trying to go thru your TX. And they are not exp. at all. THEY WORK

awesome rmenke, must be a sweet radio. it would be nice to have time to experiment with mixes and stuff for a better handling plane. the trim page on the imac site seems to be pretty complete. is this an accurate procedure for trimming the model? i understand engine thrust and c.g. and lateral balance. i dont really know too much about wing incidence and stab incidence but i know it's all important in model setup. i'm still pretty new at this game...only been flying for three years and i am finally getting to the point where i want to fly precision . good luck to me, right? this pattern flying isnt easy. but i know the aircraft needs to be right and radio setup. it's just a lot of fun to try flying the sequence.

bob

hey kid chuckles...thanks. now, i'm going to have to have a y harness so i can run these two servos off the same channel. so here's the problem.....and it might not be anything, really. on the u can do, obviously now, the elevator servos are on opposite sides of the fuse and ideally, it would be nice if they were located at the same point on these opposing sides but they're not. however, the only difference in location is latteraly (front to rear) and the height of their mounts are the same. that shouldnt mess up the geometry as long as i can keep the rods parallel to the horizontal stab. the length of the rods shouldnt matter. am i seeing this correctly? and of course, the servo arms would have to be 90 degrees to the rods when the surfaces are at zero. i dont know, i think i'm on the right track here. i'll have to just try it and see. i actually have it set up presently on my futaba 7cap using a pmix ...channel 2 (elev) and channel 5 ( gear ) and it works fairly well except the throws are marginal and setting it up so that it works is a real head ache, believe me. i fooled around with end points til i was blue in the face, and dual rates, sub trim...i hit em all. but the throw is like low rates which doesnt help when flying 3D. i'm going to have to get this reversing thing...no doubt about it. but boy does this thing fly sweet!!!!

if you have the older 72 mhz radio you do not have the softeware mixes to support dual elevators. the newer 2.4 radio due have the software mixes

yep...thats what i gathered. i got an old school 72 mhz clunker. i guess i should get with the times and upgrade to the 2.4. only trouble is, i've got all these darn planes on 72 now and would need a few rx to replace all the trash. lol but we'll see. i only fly a couple of these things more than the others so maybe it's a good time to start. instead of buying that servo reverser thing/mixer or whatever it is, maybe i'll just put the $$$ towards the 2.4. which one is the best anyways? "it's time to move up!" "yessssa!" thanks for the reply

best regards bob c.

Bob is use a Spektrum 7channel radio also. My trouble was that the servos worked in reverse one side elev up other side down. The reverser is a Y so no need for two Y's. Hope this helps you out. I also know that the guys that have similar setups on there planes use the reverser also. It is fast, easy, and cheap. If you do need to adjust it some it only takes a phillips and a sec. or two. Turn it one way or another if your close i guess. I have not had to adjust on them any. IF i need some adjusting I do that with the linkage. Mine go up the same and down the same. Have them on an Eratix, A 100 size Frenzy and a Sundowner Formula 1 80" the Sundowner only has a little throw as it is for speed. But the Eratix and Frenzy I have all I can get on High Rates. The Frenzy will go just about 90% up and down. Good luck but for the price you should try it. I also have some planes on a Futaba 6X and they are pretty good radios for what they do. And that is the radio I was using when I needed to use a reverser and they are so easy I use them with the Spektrum also. Takes a genuis to figure out all the mixes as stuff to make things work right lol. I tried not using them and just using my TX but I even reading step by step could not get them right. The reverser did and no problems. I have like yourself not been flying but just a tad over two yrs. and also want things right as Rmeke says the righter your plane the easier to fly. OR SO THEY SAY lol.

hiya chuckles....those are some cool planes you've got there. i like the looks of the sundowner. how does it fly for ya? the 3D planes sure are fun to fly. i just got back from the field. i brought out my model tech magic fun fly and wrung it out a couple of flights. thats a cool little plane...pull-pull rudder and pull-pull elevator on that tiny contraption and man, it really tumbles like crazy. one of our club members tried to shoot a video of it saturday and couldnt keep up with it. it was nuts. i didnt bring the u can do 60 down tonight because i have to make an engine thrust adjustment . when it's hovering, it wants to fall to the canopy all the time so i've got to give it some down. plus, those darn elevators ... i'll figure it out. it actually flies pretty nicely with the marginal throw that it has so i can at least still fly the thing.

well, i'm done unloading the truck so i guess i'll go up and get something to eat. maybe watch the red sox game. they just got swept by the blues jays this last series. toronto seems to be able to knock the sox down all the time. i hate it when that happens. chow dude...happy flying.


regards bob c.

If you want to upgrade you might consider getting a radio that has a removeable module so that you can put in the 2.4 or the 72 mhz module and then slowly upgrade the recivers over time.