bobrev06x:

"OldRookie" is giving you the best direction here considering your equipments lack of function. Even with the best equipment, getting dual elevator servos sincronised can be rough. The usual problem is the horns on the elevator halfs are not located in the exact same location on each side, or the servos are located at different angles or locations. If you wanna fly like the pros, you have to build like the pros. I need every advantage possible, so going to the extreem is usually necessary. I tape my elevator halfs togeather lined up perfectly with edges carefully set at 90%. I then set them in a drill vice and drill one hole throuth both elevator halfs at the same time, identical location. I use a single through bolt and nut as the elevator horns. Your drill press must also be set with everything at 90% on the drill plate. Harden the location with thin CA at each side of the elevator. I place the fuse in a home made "Crutch" that holds the airframe in the same location and also self alligns the wing and elevator in place. Simple to make from 12" particleboard shelving, locating clamps on each side of a cutout that will allow the airframe to sit down into the crutch about halfway. A good grade of house door foam insulation tape along the sides will keep your model safe from rash. I use a "smart level" to level the crutch on my workbench, in this way, the airplace can be set up the the datum line set 0-0 to the crutch. Easy way is to use a "Robert's" type incline meeter on the wing and set the wing cord at 0 on the crutch, then airframe is set up 0 in relation to the wing, elevator and engine thrust line. A decent smart level is good for one tenth of one degree, so you can get things very close. Note that some pattern plane setups will call for 1/2 of 1 degree inclination in the wing, elevator or some other accurate very difficult allignment variation from 0. This seperates the novice builders from the so called experts.

Once you think you have things set up perfectly, you can verrify the elevator throws being equal by holding the elevator at full up, taking a lazer pointer, lay on one half and project the line to a nearby wall, use a stickie note pad and place a X on the wall. Go to the other side with the lazer, lay on the elevator in the same location and see how close that side is to the wall X. Yes, there are clamp on meeters that will do the same thing, just not nearly as accurate. The singe bolt elevator horn will allow you to adjust the throw by screwing the horn up or down and getting the overall throws very close.

Now, if you have something like a JR 10-X, you can adjust minor problems out of the system by using the ATV end points, and sub-trim, and best of all, the servo speeds. Yes, I thing the Fatuba 12 will also do the same thing at twice the price.

Know a picture is worth a bunch, just do not have the ability at the moment. Picture taking a cardboard box 16" wide X 12" deep X 36" long or dimensions as needed and then cutting a hole in each end to fit the fuse width. at the front and rear of the wing. The wing will set on the top of the box equally, if you extend the box to the elevator length, you have a automatic set elevator from the top edge of the box. Whatever system you come up with, its worthless unless you can hold the airframe in the same location while you are working on it.

Hope this helps and gets you thinking 000% with all your birds.