RE: U Can Do 60
 

Joe,
I have noticed it on mine for a good while now. Just exactly like yours. Kind of odd for mono to crack like that as it usually doesn't adhere to wood good enough to do so. The covering job on mine was done by a drunk man. Looked horrible out of the box and took me forever to get it to look decent. I hate monokote, but yep I have noticed it on several UCANDO's. All 60 size.

I trimmed the mono and glued my horizonal stab on as I tried bolting it only the first couple of flights.[:'(] Way too much play. I epoxied it and the block above it to it and loctited the bolts down and covered the holes. Rigid for sure, but all the tails who have cracked did like me and glued everything down. I'd pull the mono off and see what is cracked, but then I'd have to buy a roll of white mono and I ain't going to do that. If one of the nasty blenders or flat spins I do finally snap it off I will hope and pray nothing is hurt in the crash electronically or my engine and have a good excuse to order the new H9 FuntanaS 90. 100 times better airplane anyway. Built better that is. H9 doesn't use all hotglue like GP does. My landing gear was a joke. Hotglued a tiny little block. Almost folded on the 3rd landing. I epoxied a hardwood block in and and pinned it. Won't come loose now. Whole airplane is hotglue and balsa. Sure does fly good though.

Norman Ross

RE: U Can Do 60
 

i have never seen a u can do cracked there . not many at the fields tho[X(]. dos it do it over time . or just woa didn't see it last flight . never glued my tail on . just thin ca to harden the holes.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

This popped up after about two dozen flights. Dosn't seem to get worse, neither did the last one. I've built several of these and it seems like its the late 2003 batch. The balsa sheeting is cracked, but not the light ply framework. Guess that I should glue the stab on as a precaution. Joe

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Yep It happened to mine on the building table all the way down from top to bottom. I cut a 3/4'' slot in the Monokote and thin CA it shut. Covered it with blue transparent so I can keep a eye in it. Haven't had any problems with it yet.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

mIne has a problem with the same cracks. I thought it was because I had the habit of pickingthe plane up and holding it around the fuse at the tail, horizontal stab supporting the weight of the model while it hung nose down. The funny thing is, the covering looks popped but the wood didn't have any cracks in it.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

I don't think it is a production run problem as I bought mine as soon as they came out. Lie I said all 3 I have seen all have the problem and it develops over time and from aggressize flying I assume. All of us fly ours hard and that is why we glued the tails on.

Norman Ross Jr.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Mine developed the same cracks in the tail....probably within the first 10 flights. Some thin CA permanently fixed it.

The UCD was purchased and built in the Fall of 2002. The tail was glued on from the start. At that time I was running a ST 90. Never did figure out exactly what caused the cracks.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

I wasn't sure if it was from running the tail wheel on the ground harrier style or some of the downward forces on the horizontal, while its flipping around in the air. Joe

RE: U Can Do 60
 

One thing I may do Is add some support wires to the horizontal stabilizer. A guy at the club tore his off after 50 runs- coming downward from loop Maybe because of the power? his had YS 91 FZ. He came up and warned me for flying mine to fast.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

I just wanted to let you know autoguns that my ys is running GREAT. What I thought was flush I think was really slightly in on the regulator. All is well now... Thanks for your help.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Where is your cg contempo?

RE: U Can Do 60
 

My CG is currently at 5 3/8" . I like the way it feels. Good 3D without making the elevator too sensitive on landing.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Ditto

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I just got mine completed. I mounted a YS FZ 1.20 on it. I was going to go witht he Saito 1.50 but I found the YS to be stronger and I will be able to mount the tank on the CG point. It took 4 oz. of tail weights to get to the recommended CG. Thats also after moving my receiver and battery back in the fuselage as far as I could, which was about 7 inches behind the trailing edge of the wing. Im taking it up tomorrow if the weather allows. I have not moved the tank back to the CG yet because I mounted the throttle servo before it hit me. Now I need to move the throttle servo back to make room for the tank.

So far I have no real complaints and I'm ready to fly.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Widow, if balance allows, once the tank is moved , the throttle servo can go forward. Also with the tank out of the way I was able to re drill for the throttle linkage and it lined up nicely. That YS 120 will honk. Good luck, Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Thanks for that tip Joe, and the image. That will help alot. Looks like today is the day. It rained yesterday so I didn't get to try it.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I got the tank moved back to CG today. I moved my throttle servo to the trailing edge of the wing because I already had to add weight to the tail to get it balance. My battery pack is also mounted two ribs back from where your is sitting. I had my receiver back there as well but thought about how hard it would be to get it if I had to change something out. I moved it to the trailing edge, right behind my throttle servo. I'm glad I did because when I got the receiver out, the aileron Y fell out of the receiver [X(] . I did fly it today before all these changes and the 1.20 rockets it out of hover. It does really nice slow knife edges.

The only thing I had trouble with is a spinner. The correct size spinner for that engine looks way stupid on the UCD so I trimmed the one that came with the UCD so it would fit the prop, etc. The YS didnt like that much. I throttled to full on the gound to set the high and while I was doing that I saw the spinner making some strange formations. I cut the engine and the prop had twisted in the spinner and stretched it. I retightened the prop to but it happened again. So for now Im running without a spinner.

I was also wondering why they tank fits so tight, no allowing room for any foam. Every plane I have done the tank was wrapped. What make this different?

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I think its a preference. I've never had to wrap a tank. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Well I read the forums/reviews about the tail needing braces/wires but decided to go with the reveiw. Just got back from the field with a broken horz. stab. I had about 20 flight on the plane and was soooo impressed with it. It seems as if I couldn't hurt it. Then out of a snap roll went nose down, no more than 20 flights before, and snappppp. The right horz stab broke down and the left broke up. The monocote and the control rods held it on!
Now I'll fix it with brace wires.. I was very lucky to have been able to land it.
[sm=frown.gif]

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Is that an issue with the .46 ? Good luck with the fix. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Joe that can happen on the 60 size as well. It happened to a Friend of mine only worse outcome. If you want to put your head on the chopping block be my guest. I think a ounce of prevention is better then a pound of cure. Add the wires OR like I do to keep it light add Teflon coted caviler. SL

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Opppps I see I posted this in the UCD 60 forum. sorry.
but yes a lot of guys have talked about this problem. GP needs to beef up the tail featers a bit.
Now I'll go for my pound of cure. [sm=bananahead.gif]

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I bought a brand new 16x4w that I planned to use with my Saito 100, but after reading it seems apparent that you need to run 30% nitro in order to get good performance. I probably should go with a 15x4W instead since I'm content on running 15% Wildcat Premium Xtra. Anyone have a 15x4w they would like to trade for a 16x4w? Mine is brand new and has never been mounted. I'd prefer the same in the 15x4w.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Coo, I only have the one that I'm running and as you, have a 16/4 on the side, if I choose to try the 30%. I did a little tune up on the UCD which included new lines and tightening up all the line clamps. Cleaned out all fuel related items and set the rocker arm clearance. It payed off. I'm now at 2 1/4 turns out on the high end, as opposed to three turns and from that setting I picked up 900 RPMs. Tached it last night with the 15/4 @ 10500, backed off to 10000 and watched it go!!!! What a difference. I'll tell you what I do have, two Zinger 16/5s, one of which I plan on cutting to 15/5. If you want the other one its yours. Joe

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Thanks for the offer on the prop Joe. But I already have several Zinger props including the 16x5 and 15x6. I like them because they are light, but they still can't quite pull the rpm's that I'm pulling with the APC.

What did you set your valve clearence to? I rechecked mine at the beginning of the season and they didn't need any tweaking. The only time I had to actually adjust them was after the first few gallons they needed changed a bit. Since then they've stayed put.

If you happen to try the 16x4w with 30% let me know what kind of RPM you get. Then for the heck of it maybe try the same prop with 10 or 15% ans see how much drop off there is.